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Fluid Damper GROUP BUY. thru 13 Dec 12

Leroy, im sending you a PM, but you can count me in for a DS4 unit. Your price makes it hard to say no, even if it sits on the shelf until I find time to install it! Thanks again!

-Nick
 
HighSierra86 said:
Leroy, im sending you a PM, but you can count me in for a DS4 unit. Your price makes it hard to say no, even if it sits on the shelf until I find time to install it! Thanks again!

-Nick
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Got it, sent the invoice.

I got the first order in, just waiting to hear back now.
 
Burning oil said:
Update: Just got the fifth confirmed order. I'll place these orders on Monday and get this thing rolling.
At this point Im still taking orders until the 13th Dec and will be able to process the orders as they come in (don't have to wait for another 5) so will be much smoother from here. Get the word out to the other forums too.

Thanks for hanging in there with me on this. I'll allways fight/scrap to get you guys the best price I can.
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:eek: I am going to have to crawl under my trucks and see how the GM replacements are doing because of this! (They give up early ~30K miles working hard.) Hopefully you can forgive Jorge6.5 who caused the churn, but, it appears to have worked out well for all of us thanks to both of you!

Wonder if Ivan can say how long they are supposed to last in extreme use - granted longer than OEM, but, how much longer?
 
vstech and racer55 ( I'll give them credit) PM'ed me way before jorge posted his thread.
No hard feelings he has actualy bought items from me and was very happy (thus why I did not get the attitude).
 
Burning oil said:
vstech and racer55 ( I'll give them credit) PM'ed me way before jorge posted his thread.
No hard feelings he has actualy bought items from me and was very happy (thus why I did not get the attitude).
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yeah, I noticed some sale prices and pm'd ya about em hoping you weren't getting hosed on the prices... glad it all worked out for everyone!!!
 
WarWagon, got this from Paul.

"Hi Guys, My Name is Paul Bennett and I work for Fluidampr along w/ Ivan.



First, let’s clarify what torsional vibration is.

Each time the air & fuel mixture inside a cylinder is ignited, the combustion that results creates a large torque spike and increased cylinder pressure. The pressure is then applied to the top of the piston, which then transmits to the crankshaft through the connecting rods. This actually causes the crankshaft to deflect, or twist the crankshaft ahead of its natural rotation. This twisting/rebound of the crankshaft is known as torsional vibration.



The reason that OEM elastomer (rubber) dampers fail so quickly is actually quite simple. Elastomer is a cheap, common material which is a decent absorber of torsional vibration on bare stock applications. When an new engine is in its R&D stages the engineers match the elastomer durometer (hardness of rubber) to the engines harshest frequency. Once the engine is modified to gain horsepower & torque the natural frequency of the engine is changed and the OEM damper is actually overworking itself. Over a period of time the heat buildup starts to deteriorate the rubber. You will notice cracking, separation and rubber missing from the damper.



This is where the Fluidampr outperforms the OEM damper in almost every category. Fluidampr self tunes to any frequency range, making it a great addition to tuned engines. Unlike rubber, silicone is a great dissipater of heat. Once the energy transfers to the Fluidampr, the Fluidampr turns it into heat and dissipates it through the damper housing. Silicone is a great damping medium due to its temperature resistance. Temperatures can range from -40F to 210F in continuous operation with excellent performance results.



I hope this helps everyone learn a bit more about dampers, if anyone has any questions please feel free to send an email to [email protected] "
 
Only 210* ?! lol I think some of us unfortunately see a hair higher than that and heat soak has to get pretty bad in a hot shot rig. At any rate it cant be a down grade.
 
tanman_2006 said:
Only 210* ?! lol I think some of us unfortunately see a hair higher than that and heat soak has to get pretty bad in a hot shot rig. At any rate it cant be a down grade.
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You beat me - I was thinking the same thing. My LLY will seriously go over 210 and boil washer fluid and batteries, my 2008 LMM would run 240 and be normal. Oil temps would burn 300 degree continuous rated oil cooler lines. 6.5's are the low temp king making people nervous at a low 210 vs. the newer stuff.

Silicone fan clutches last 5 years loosing 200 RPM per year. Untuned stock 6.5 engines eat dampers esp. when working hard and break cranks. So an advantage was pointed out for tuned 6.5's but seriously give yourselves some credit for stock 6.5's as well.
 
WarWagon said:
You beat me - I was thinking the same thing. My LLY will seriously go over 210 and boil washer fluid and batteries, my 2008 LMM would run 240 and be normal. Oil temps would burn 300 degree continuous rated oil cooler lines. 6.5's are the low temp king making people nervous at a low 210 vs. the newer stuff.

Silicone fan clutches last 5 years loosing 200 RPM per year. Untuned stock 6.5 engines eat dampers esp. when working hard and break cranks. So an advantage was pointed out for tuned 6.5's but seriously give yourselves some credit for stock 6.5's as well.
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My LBZ fan clutch doesnt kick on until 236* then it drops to 205* and cycles all over. Maybe the clutch is weak on my truck.
 
Tanner, Paul emailed me this to post up.

"Normal operating temperatures for the Duramax is usually around 170-205 degrees (depending on year, mods) with some reaching 210 under load. The 210 degrees I mentioned is more of a guideline for standard operations. Keep in mind this is an external engine component which receives plenty of airflow. On some of our drag/circle track racing applications temperatures can easily reach 250 degrees with no effect on the damper. The damper can handle these temperatures and spikes up into the 300 degree range. Most engines would blow a head gasket before the damper could potentially overheat. "
 
Burning oil said:
Tanner, Paul emailed me this to post up.

"Normal operating temperatures for the Duramax is usually around 170-205 degrees (depending on year, mods) with some reaching 210 under load. The 210 degrees I mentioned is more of a guideline for standard operations. Keep in mind this is an external engine component which receives plenty of airflow. On some of our drag/circle track racing applications temperatures can easily reach 250 degrees with no effect on the damper. The damper can handle these temperatures and spikes up into the 300 degree range. Most engines would blow a head gasket before the damper could potentially overheat. "
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My Dmax saw 100miles of 250* coolant one day last summer. Had a tractor to move for a neighbor and turning back wasnt an option (stupid 40mph head wind on a +100* day)

PS: PAYMENT SENT!
 
ALLRIGHTY THEN!! this group buy is officially over.

I want to say thanks to everyone and espescially to those that stuck with me even though the drama, it meant alot to me knowing you were willing to pay more when you at the time could have gotten it for less. Fighting and scraping I was able to come up with the best price in the end though.
Wound up selling 11 FD's. Im going to get 13 to have two in stock. If anyone is interested in one PM me for the new price.

Thanks again and if anyone would like to see another group buy on Fluid damper or a different product let me know
 
Burning oil said:
and if anyone would like to see another group buy on Fluid damper or a different product let me know
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Weeeell . . . Now that you mentioned it . . . How about a ZF S6-650 and South Bend kevlar clutch to bolt on back of my 6.5 :driving:

But sadly, even if it is to come true, not in the budget until 2014; so here is hoping for *next* Christmas season :elf1
 
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