fish biting?

[Matt Bachand]

i'll try the two stroke oil, though i was SUPER impressed with the stanadyne additive. i was setting codes as fast as i could clear them before the additive, but after i added it, codes went away, but hiccups and farts stayed....until now anyway. price between additive and two-cycle are about the same here, but it is worth a try. thank you!

They recommend both btw, FWIW you supposedly get back your investment in increased fuel mileage also.

Longevity of your lift injection pump and possibly LP too depend on consistent lube via diesel fuel additives to make up for the Ultra low sulfer. (the sulfer was very lubricating).

 

[Matt Bachand]

Matt how does the 2-stroke oil compare to running QMI Fuel treatment. I know the QMI does more only needing 6 oz per tank but I would think lubrication is more of an issue than water in the fuel.

If they do differnt things can't hurt to do both. See, Motor oil and 2-stroke are petrolium based and mix together molecularly with diesel fuel. Let me try to find some old research posts i've read before. Great reads, and can't emphasize enough how important it is for your IP's longevity.

 

[Matt Bachand]

copy / paste of a lubricuity study, can't find link yet

PASTE

RESULTS
In Order Of Performance:
1) 2% REG SoyPower bio-diesel
HFRR 221, 415 micron improvement.
50:1 ratio of baseline fuel to 100% biodiesel
66.56 oz. of 100% biodiesel per 26 gallons of diesel fuel
Price: market value
2) Opti-Lube XPD
Multi-purpose + anti-gel
Cetane Improver, Demulsifier
HFRR 317, 319 micron improvement.
256:1 ratio
13 oz/tank
$4.35/tank
3) FPPF RV, Bus, SUV Diesel/Gas Fuel Treatment
Gas and Diesel
Cetane improver, Emulsifier
HFRR 439, 197 micron improvement
640:1 ratio
5.2 oz/tank
$2.60/tank
4) Opti-Lube Summer Blend
Multi-purpose
Demulsifier
HFRR 447, 189 micron improvement
3000:1 ratio
1.11 oz/tank
$0.68/tank
5) Opti-Lube Winter Blend
Muti-purpose + anti-gel
Cetane improver
HFRR 461, 175 micron improvement
512:1 ratio
6.5 oz/tank
$3.65/tank
Copyright© The Diesel Place & A. D. Spicer - 6 - August, 2007
6) Schaeffer Diesel Treat 2000
Multi-purpose + anti-gel
Cetane improver, Emulsifier, bio-diesel compatible
HFRR 470, 166 micron improvement
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$1.87/tank
7) Super Tech Outboard 2-Cycle TC-W3 Engine Oil
Unconventional
(Not ULSD compliant, may damage 2007 or newer systems)
HFRR 474, 162 micron improvement
200:1 ratio
16.64 oz/tank
$1.09/tank
8) Stanadyne Lubricity Formula
Lubricity Only
Demulsifier, 5% bio-diesel compatible, alcohol free
HFRR 479, 157 micron improvement
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$1.00/tank
9) Amsoil Diesel Concentrate
Multi-purpose
Demulsifier, bio-diesel compatible, alcohol free
HFRR 488, 148 micron improvement
640:1 ratio
5.2 oz/tank
$2.16/tank
10) Power Service Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost
Multi-purpose
Cetane improver, bio-diesel compatible, alcohol free
HFRR 575, 61 micron improvement
400:1 ratio
8.32 oz/tank
$1.58/tank
Copyright© The Diesel Place & A. D. Spicer - 7 - August, 2007
11) Howe’s Meaner Power Kleaner
Multi-purpose
Alcohol free
HFRR 586, 50 micron improvement
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$1.36/tank
12) Stanadyne Performance Formula
Multi-purpose + anti-gel
Cetane improver, Demulsifier, 5% bio-diesel compatible, alcohol free
HFRR 603, 33 micron improvement
480:1 ratio
6.9 oz/tank
$4.35/tank
13) Used Motor Oil, Shell Rotella T 15W-40, 5,000 miles used.
Unconventional
(Not ULSD compliant, may damage systems)
HFRR 634, 2 micron improvement (statistically insignificant change)
200:1 ratio
16.64 oz/tank
price: $0.00
14) Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant
Gas or Diesel
HFRR 641, 5 microns worse than baseline (statistically insignificant
change)
427:1 ratio
7.8 oz/tank
$2.65/tank
15) B1000 Diesel Fuel Conditioner by Milligan Biotech
Multi-purpose, canola oil based additive
HFRR 644, 8 microns worse than baseline (statistically insignificant
change)
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$2.67/tank
Copyright© The Diesel Place & A. D. Spicer - 8 - August, 2007
16) FPPF Lubricity Plus Fuel Power
Multi-purpose + anti-gel
Emulsifier, alcohol free
HFRR 675, 39 microns worse than baseline fuel
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$1.12/tank
17) Marvel Mystery Oil
Gas, Oil and Diesel fuel additive (NOT ULSD compliant, may damage
2007 and newer systems)
HFRR 678, 42 microns worse than baseline fuel.
320:1 ratio
10.4 oz/tank
$3.22/tank
18) ValvTect Diesel Guard Heavy Duty/Marine Diesel Fuel Additive
Multi-purpose
Cetane improver, Emulsifier, alcohol free
HFRR 696, 60 microns worse than baseline fuel
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$2.38/tank
19) Primrose Power Blend 2003
Multi-purpose
Cetane boost, bio-diesel compatible, Emulsifier
HFRR 711, 75 microns worse than baseline
1066:1 ratio
3.12 oz/tank
$1.39/tank

 

[Matt Bachand]

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177728

try that link out for size

 

[GJF]

Very good read indeed! Thanks for your troubles. It is interesting what each product added brought to the table. Thanks again!!!!

 

[guybb3]

well, i took the pickup on a small trip last night. what i figured out, is that it is worse after it has warmed up, sits for awhile, and then run again. my best guess iss that when warmed up, and shut down, the OS has a chance to heat soak. when fired again, chugs, and farts. it only gets worse on the way home.

That is EXACTLY what mine did last summer. Does your truck code when you restart warm? Mine did and would then run great after sitting overnight.

 

[indybeck]

does not code immediatly after restart, but cruising down the road usually. but yes, cold start in the morning always runs good. have you fixed yours? if yes, what did you do?

 

[indybeck]

but i should aso say, that it does not always throw a code.

 

[guybb3]

does not code immediatly after restart, but cruising down the road usually. but yes, cold start in the morning always runs good. have you fixed yours? if yes, what did you do?

So I'm not full of crap, I'm not exactly sure. I DID drain the tank down to nothing and then put fresh fuel in and I blew out my tank sock. I did also put 2 new batteries in (on the same day) and I think that the old ones were giving me some weird trouble also. After the fuel and batteries, not one more problem and that was 6 months ago.

 

[indybeck]

i already cleaned tank, and romoved sock. i put a fuel filter in line, and batteries start truck fine, i don't think they are bad. i cleaned and modified my battery terminals though.

 

[Matt Bachand]

i already cleaned tank, and romoved sock. i put a fuel filter in line, and batteries start truck fine, i don't think they are bad. i cleaned and modified my battery terminals though.

Where did you put your fuel filter? I have heard data backed stories of fuel pressure starvation when factory lfitp pump is 'sucking' through a restriction (filter). It can push fine, but weakness sucking.

 

[Turbine Doc]

In normal driving a Heath h/o will pull thru a Racor pre-filter, you lose some flow if hitting it hard, or towing heavy, which is why I went to the Walbro FRB-5 so I'm fully fueling the IP at all times

 

[guybb3]

In normal driving a Heath h/o will pull thru a Racor pre-filter, you lose some flow if hitting it hard, or towing heavy, which is why I went to the Walbro FRB-5 so I'm fully fueling the IP at all times

I already had my Walbro installed when I had trouble. Lucky me.:sad:

 

[indybeck]

i cleaned the optic sensor, took it on a trip, and same thing happened. so i am assuming, that a new IP is in order. can i buy an optic sensor, and if so, where can i get it?

 

[schiker]

Find a local Stanadyne dealer. I think thats the only source.

I am betting its the fuel metering mechanism/solenoid. Worn plunger or stop "T".

 

[Turbine Doc]

Shoot a message to Pensacola Diesel on ebay, their prices are about the best for IP stuff

 

[buddy]

Have you tried chainging the engines Coolant Temp Sensor? Or at least try jumpering that harness with a 300ohm resistor to fool the PCM to think the engine is happily at 180 constant.

But you also have to lubricate the IP, throw in 1/2 quart of TCW3 2 stroke or SAE30 with your Stanadyne if you want to keep using that.

Also drain some of your fuel into a jar at the drain valve and see what it looks like, if there is any water bubbles, if it is dark, or if it is clouded.

 

[indybeck]

thanks guys, appreciate the quick responses. the fuel is clear, and no i havn't replaced the coolant temp sensor. but on that note, when it's not hiccuping, or farting, it runs like a champ. and it only does it after it has been run and warmed up well, shut down for an hour or two, and then run again. even then, when it happens it doesn't always throw a code. when it does, it throws codes for optic sensor. could water temp sensor cause this? thanks again!

 

[buddy]

I would try fooling the PCM first with a cheap resistor across the harness. The coolant temp sensor can mess with timing and fuel rate and cause surging and stumbling.

 

[indybeck]

i have a 300 ohm resistor in line right now, i'll give it a try. thanks buddy!