hookedup50
Well-Known Member
X2 on Cooper, got 60k on a set with 20kish left in tread. They are lasting longer than the Michelins on the 2500.
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
First thing I should do to my 6.5 for preventive maintenance?
- Thread starter bdemutis
- Start date
So should I replace both of them at the same time or should I just replace the harmonic balancer?
Well my girlfriends dad will do the mounting and balancing if I can get the tires cheaper just by buying them without any installation. Also yea I might just get the coopers for now I don't need anything too aggressive.
X2 on Cooper. Made in USA.
I look at Cooper first then Bridgestone, Firestone. Goodyear and Michielin are useally out of my price range.
If you need oil cooler hoses Im getting ready to list another set on my web site for less money. They are still a stainless steel braided hose, but will have a rubber reinforced liner and reusable AN fittings on the ends.
I look at Cooper first then Bridgestone, Firestone. Goodyear and Michielin are useally out of my price range.
If you need oil cooler hoses Im getting ready to list another set on my web site for less money. They are still a stainless steel braided hose, but will have a rubber reinforced liner and reusable AN fittings on the ends.
jrsavoie
Recruit
"So should I replace both of them at the same time or should I just replace the harmonic balancer?"
Inspect them both. look closely at the condition of the rubber. If it looks iffy replace what needs replaced. You may have to replace both or just one or the other.
If they look good, I would save up for a fluidamper.
Inspect them both. look closely at the condition of the rubber. If it looks iffy replace what needs replaced. You may have to replace both or just one or the other.
If they look good, I would save up for a fluidamper.
Sounds good Ill keep my eye out for when they release I would like to replace my cooler lines also.
Ok thanks if as I read I should look for rubber splitting or coming out of the harmonic balancer like gushing out of it.
jrsavoie
Recruit
Or just bulging
GM Guy
Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
I would highly suggest saving money for a Fluidampr. honestly, we have a few bone stock rigs around here with nothing else but a Fluidampr. My old man is the cheapest person I know, and he has two of his 6.5Ls with Fluidamprs.
Like said above, a bad damper can lead to crank failure, so it is a critical part.
Inspect the Harmonic damper, and the pulley damper that is bolted to it. the harmonic damper should NOT have any bulging or cracked areas. if it has either, I would replace.
As far as the pulley damper, as long as the rubber is still intact and looks decent, I would run it. what you want to avoid is when they go bad, they will beat back and forth on the bolt heads with the spokes, and transmit alot of that hammering to the crank, which is very bad. so basically I feel the harmonic damper can degrade on a sliding scale, and the pulley damper is either runnable or shot. My opinion though.
check for lift pump PSI and flow. can get a rough estimate by opening the t-valve, if it shoots out at a good pressure, with a large volume, you are likely good to go. if it dribbles out or nothing at all, then it is replacement time. Like Jeff (jrsavoie) said, if staying fairly stock, stil with the EP158 AC Delco LP for 1992-1993 6.5L applications. will thread and plug right in the same, but it will flow a little more volume. if you plan on hopping it up, go with a Walbro like Leroydiesel.com sells.
also, if the rig is 1995 or older, the LP is powered directly off the OPS, and the OPS is barely adequate for the job, and will fail over time. I would highly suggest the relay kit. If you are good at wiring, its DIY. I personally like the factory style weatherpack (or Metripak?) connectors and professionally built unit that Leroydiesel.com sells. I own two relay kits, and have one installed. very nice. at the same time, install a new AC Delco OPS, and you shouldnt have to touch it for a long time.
If you have a 94+ rig, better pack a spare PMD. if the PMD is failing, I highly suggest getting a remote mount kit. This area is one that alot of guys screw up IMO. they buy some crappy kit, put it on the intake, firewall, inner fender, etc, and it kills the new PMD. I dont dick around on PMDS, when one is headed south, I assemble a complete new kit (I use Leroydiesel.com for all my PMD stuff...or bargain New Old Stock Stanadyne or GM stuff on ebay occasionally
) and put it down in the bumper and forget about it. IMO a good heatsink in the bumper is the only way to go.
Otherwise, it is all good basic maintenance, change oil often, probably change oil in all the gearboxes and pumpkins at least once, be prepared to go through the front end, and make sure the u-joints are in good shape. I love Rockauto.com for this stuff, I bought some AC Delco professional u-joints. they are greaseable and made in USA, and are fairly cheap, so what more can you ask for?
Good luck!
Like said above, a bad damper can lead to crank failure, so it is a critical part.
Inspect the Harmonic damper, and the pulley damper that is bolted to it. the harmonic damper should NOT have any bulging or cracked areas. if it has either, I would replace.
As far as the pulley damper, as long as the rubber is still intact and looks decent, I would run it. what you want to avoid is when they go bad, they will beat back and forth on the bolt heads with the spokes, and transmit alot of that hammering to the crank, which is very bad. so basically I feel the harmonic damper can degrade on a sliding scale, and the pulley damper is either runnable or shot. My opinion though.
check for lift pump PSI and flow. can get a rough estimate by opening the t-valve, if it shoots out at a good pressure, with a large volume, you are likely good to go. if it dribbles out or nothing at all, then it is replacement time. Like Jeff (jrsavoie) said, if staying fairly stock, stil with the EP158 AC Delco LP for 1992-1993 6.5L applications. will thread and plug right in the same, but it will flow a little more volume. if you plan on hopping it up, go with a Walbro like Leroydiesel.com sells.
also, if the rig is 1995 or older, the LP is powered directly off the OPS, and the OPS is barely adequate for the job, and will fail over time. I would highly suggest the relay kit. If you are good at wiring, its DIY. I personally like the factory style weatherpack (or Metripak?) connectors and professionally built unit that Leroydiesel.com sells. I own two relay kits, and have one installed. very nice. at the same time, install a new AC Delco OPS, and you shouldnt have to touch it for a long time.
If you have a 94+ rig, better pack a spare PMD. if the PMD is failing, I highly suggest getting a remote mount kit. This area is one that alot of guys screw up IMO. they buy some crappy kit, put it on the intake, firewall, inner fender, etc, and it kills the new PMD. I dont dick around on PMDS, when one is headed south, I assemble a complete new kit (I use Leroydiesel.com for all my PMD stuff...or bargain New Old Stock Stanadyne or GM stuff on ebay occasionally
) and put it down in the bumper and forget about it. IMO a good heatsink in the bumper is the only way to go.Otherwise, it is all good basic maintenance, change oil often, probably change oil in all the gearboxes and pumpkins at least once, be prepared to go through the front end, and make sure the u-joints are in good shape. I love Rockauto.com for this stuff, I bought some AC Delco professional u-joints. they are greaseable and made in USA, and are fairly cheap, so what more can you ask for?
Good luck!
jrsavoie
Recruit
Head gasket, or the coolant line connections. When trucks get this old they can leak a lot of places between here and there
Hmm well I never seen coolant leaking anywhere on the ground I never seen a puddle or anything. I stopped by the body shop to drop off money and I crawled underneath and noticed green on the cv axle when I was looking at the starter but there was no coolant on the floor of the garage.
Ok thanks I really appreciate all of the info and I'm wondering on the oil change is it just like the powerstroke every 5-7k also I never opened the t valve yet I'm kind of worried about breaking it since the T handle looks a little bent. Also I was going to do the OPS mod where you splice the wire and use heat shrink but I cant find a good detailed tutorial.I would highly suggest saving money for a Fluidampr. honestly, we have a few bone stock rigs around here with nothing else but a Fluidampr. My old man is the cheapest person I know, and he has two of his 6.5Ls with Fluidamprs.
Like said above, a bad damper can lead to crank failure, so it is a critical part.
Inspect the Harmonic damper, and the pulley damper that is bolted to it. the harmonic damper should NOT have any bulging or cracked areas. if it has either, I would replace.
As far as the pulley damper, as long as the rubber is still intact and looks decent, I would run it. what you want to avoid is when they go bad, they will beat back and forth on the bolt heads with the spokes, and transmit alot of that hammering to the crank, which is very bad. so basically I feel the harmonic damper can degrade on a sliding scale, and the pulley damper is either runnable or shot. My opinion though.
check for lift pump PSI and flow. can get a rough estimate by opening the t-valve, if it shoots out at a good pressure, with a large volume, you are likely good to go. if it dribbles out or nothing at all, then it is replacement time. Like Jeff (jrsavoie) said, if staying fairly stock, stil with the EP158 AC Delco LP for 1992-1993 6.5L applications. will thread and plug right in the same, but it will flow a little more volume. if you plan on hopping it up, go with a Walbro like Leroydiesel.com sells.
also, if the rig is 1995 or older, the LP is powered directly off the OPS, and the OPS is barely adequate for the job, and will fail over time. I would highly suggest the relay kit. If you are good at wiring, its DIY. I personally like the factory style weatherpack (or Metripak?) connectors and professionally built unit that Leroydiesel.com sells. I own two relay kits, and have one installed. very nice. at the same time, install a new AC Delco OPS, and you shouldnt have to touch it for a long time.
If you have a 94+ rig, better pack a spare PMD. if the PMD is failing, I highly suggest getting a remote mount kit. This area is one that alot of guys screw up IMO. they buy some crappy kit, put it on the intake, firewall, inner fender, etc, and it kills the new PMD. I dont dick around on PMDS, when one is headed south, I assemble a complete new kit (I use Leroydiesel.com for all my PMD stuff...or bargain New Old Stock Stanadyne or GM stuff on ebay occasionally
Otherwise, it is all good basic maintenance, change oil often, probably change oil in all the gearboxes and pumpkins at least once, be prepared to go through the front end, and make sure the u-joints are in good shape. I love Rockauto.com for this stuff, I bought some AC Delco professional u-joints. they are greaseable and made in USA, and are fairly cheap, so what more can you ask for?
Good luck!
I think I remember that post on a relay mod. One problem with it and even the one I did a few years ago is it still supplies the current to LP via the stock 18ga wire. IMO its not big enough. If you can make your own mod thats good, but I do offer these plug & play. http://leroydiesel.com/products/lift-pump-relay-harness/
http://leroydiesel.com/products/263/
http://leroydiesel.com/products/263/
tanman_2006
Just a farm kid...
The heater hose connection at the t stat cross over tends to leak. That's more on the pass side
jrsavoie
Recruit
I agree with Leroy. If I were to do another I would do it based on Leroy's design. You'd have to buy the plug to go to the lift pump in addition to the relays. The only thing I would do different than Leroy's is I would use mountable relay sockets instead of mountable relays. I got my relay sockets from Waytek - along with most other wiring supplies I need. I got the relays from the local Semi dealership - Used to be my go to, GMC dealership til they lost their dealership in the bailout. They operated in the black for years and years, but they didn't do enough volume.
For what Leroy charges, it ain't a bad deal. But you can do it cheaper on your own. How much cheaper is cheap enough to go through the trouble is up to you.
How long before Leroy makes the headlight harnesses?
Thanks I'lll probably just end up buying the one you make instead of fussing around building my own.
Ok thanks I'll have to check it out like I said there are no puddles on the ground or anything.
Yea I hear you on that I learned it the hard way building a duck blind I spent about $20 less than what I could of bought a lay down blind for lol.
Also does any one know what kind of hose to use to run the cdr to the cdr valve connector hose I made a ghetto hose but I want a proper hose and all the heater hose it to heavy duty to use. The hose in question is the one circled and also what about a chip on these trucks or is that a bad idea. I know a stock powerstroke with an exhaust can benefit with a chip.
Attachments
hookedup50
Well-Known Member
I haven't found proper fitting hose from parts or hardware store. It seems like its a 7/8 hose would fit better than 3/4. I ended up using my old AC hose I had hanging around. Bowtie Butler has a thread with a clean install, particularly the CDR hose. I'm gonna install a catch can and mimic that picture by getting a dry filter airbox from Leroy.
jrsavoie
Recruit
Do you mean the short piece of hose that connects the CDR to the tubing?
hookedup50
Well-Known Member
I didn't realize I was looking at a stock type setup. If you think your set looks gacked my cdr hose setup to get around the ATT is worse. The short piece of hose is available, and I have a new one kicking around if that is what you are referring to. If I can find it its yours.
I need that hose I circled I have the one that is in the air intake I just need the one that connects the cdr and the intake hose. I made a ghetto one out of copper pipe and some rubber hose and clamps lol.