Installed your harness, Leroy. It's high quality and I had plenty of wire. It took me a couple hours to get all the wires right where I wanted them, but everything is in place, now.
I ended up having to put in a new OPS, as well. It took me a bit to figure it out, but I had power on one side of the OPS harness, so I knew it was getting signal. Maybe there's a possibility the other OPS (which was also new) was bad and when I jiggled the harness, it jiggled something on the OPS and made it start to work and also made it work once it got warm?
Thankfully, I had a new OEM OPS at home, so I swapped it in and all was well.
Still scratching my head on what smoked the OPS I just put in last fall when I was dealing with this. Keep in mind, I don't drive this much and it sat from November until today.
Yes, the WTS works just fine. The momentary switch works perfectly, too - nice feature. I was able to use my old bracket to support the relay and all the wires are "relaxed" in their positions. None are twisted up or anything. That reminds me that after getting the harness in place for my initial test, I pulled it out from the building from where I park it and shut it off outside since it was so nice out. At some point, the eyelet for the glow plug relay slipped off the wire. It just wasn't crimped on tight enough, so I just slipped the wire back in the eyelet and re-crimped and then tinned some solder into the connection. Not a big deal, though. I may solder the battery wire and ground, as well, at some point.
I do not have my gauge installed yet, so no pressures yet that I can brag on.
I was thinking, this morning, that my old harness had those loose connections a while back and that could have caused the other OPS to fail, I guess, if they're tempermental. That's just a guess.
FERM, can you address this on my concern on the OPS failing? Do you think it's possible that I weakened the other one or caused some damage with loose connectors on my original harness? It's worked fine over the weekend, but I'm still cautious that one of these times, I'm going to start it up and the pump isn't going to be pumping anymore due to another smoked OPS.
If you still have your failed OPS break it open and inspect the switch contacts. It may be full of oil from a internal failure and leak. If the contacts are burned you know the harness was wired wrong (putting the LP current through it still) or the harness shorted on you.
Several uses, to date and the OPS is still going. I think I feel confidant enough that I'm going to go ahead and mount my bracket on the vibration isolators I bought a while back and will get the fuel pressure gauge installed soon.
Just to finalize this - I added the vibration isolators, finally. I got them from McMaster Carr a LONG time ago, but just decided I needed to put them on when I noticed my driver side window vibrating from the pump resonating up through the frame.
WOW, what a difference!?! Before, I could hear the pump running over the engine running, when the windows were closed. Now, it's almost so quiet, that I can barely hear it run while the engine is off.
I recommend isolating, if it's not done on yours - you might prevent things shaking apart in the future.
Learned that my local shop simply sliced a garden hose and used it as a damper. Originally I thought that Walboro changed the engineering only to learn of a simple hack.
Yes, for the lift pump. Probably just as good on the short term, but I would think the hose would smash down over time and become ineffective, although, still better than nothing. My "short term" metal on metal was not the best idea I've had.