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Eye connectors

Hello, I got back in town a few days ago..had to rest a few days after long drive..well been gone about 8 months, longer than I expected, trying to remember where I left off…the engine still turns over so good there but no fuel to the return line (clear line)…so tomorrow I will get some clear line to try the ladder attack..a question..when I hook up to the ip inlet should I worry about fuel coming out of the hose from the fuel filter? And another question..when I turn off the ignition after trying to start I hear the lift pump still pumping for a few seconds..any concerns? Thanks panran
I always install a toggle switch under the hood to run the lift pump, so I usually give a little bit of fuel as hooking up to the IP, to try to minimize air
 
There should be a fuse and relay for the lift pump in the under hood fuse box. but that only will disable it during cranking. if you need to temporarily disable the lift pump, just slide under the truck right about the drivers door on the inside of the frame rail you will find the lift pump and a connector. disconnect that two wire connector to the pump.
 
I must not be understanding right…I unplugged the L P and hooked up a 5/16 to the inlet and 1/4 to the return and hung 1/2gallon of fuel to my hood release and turned the key a few times but didn’t get the fuel to siphon a few times the siphon hose came out of the fuel…am I supposed to manually siphon or they were new hose and not relaxed still coiled and kept going above the fuel level..looks like the intake started to get fuel but think I set it up to hastily.
 
if I understand your bypassing the fuel tank and lift pump and trying to use a jerry can of fuel to get the engine started...

using a jerry can to feed the engine it will be much easier to have some sort of supply pump to fill the hose from the jerry can and fill the fuel filter, but you can gravity feed it.

First lets move the fuel can to sit on top of the cab roof for safety, you don't want that can of diesel hanging from the hood to fall and spill over on top of the engine while cranking or if it happens to bust off and shake the can loose from the hood.

run the length of hose from the fuel can to the fuel filter inlet. install the filter and close off the drain and air bleeder on the filter cap. now pull off the fuel line at the IP inlet / fuel filter outlet and suck on the hose till you see fuel gravity feeding into and out of the the hose. Once fuel starts coming out of that hose, real quick like slip that hose back on to the IP.
 
Ok so we now have confirmed your getting fuel to the IP. was this by gravity feeding from a remote fuel can or by the truck tank and lift pump?

with the key in the on or run position, use a test light and back probe the fuel shutoff solenoid for 12v. or just unscrew the solenoid out of the IP all together. don't crank it, but cycle the key on and off looking at the solenoid plunger to see if it's moving in and out. below is a picture of what the solenoid looks like to give a reference on if the rubber plunger stays on the solenoid or is stuck inside the pump when you remove it. the plunger is what allows fuel to flow into the IP.

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once you verify the solenoid is in fact doing solenoid things and the plunger is not stuck in the IP, re-install the solenoid. use a wrench and loosen all the injector line nuts you can get. a couple of turns loosen should be good. make sure you can wiggle the steel lines that go to each injector so there loose to let fuel leak.

Now comes the point at which you need good hot batteries and a healthy starter. crank the engine over in no longer than 30 seconds at a time letting the starter rest and cool some all the while looking at each injector line nut for fuel to begin leaking. also take note of the clear return line on the IP you installed looking for the flowing of fuel and air bubbles. seeing the bubbles pass in that return line is a clear indication fuel is pumping and it's trying to purge air from the IP.

it's gonna take a few tries of 30 second cranking intervals, just be patient and let the starter cool as well as keep the batteries hot (charged) if you have to stop and let the batteries re-energize, do that.
 
Roger that…not to firmilar with probing electric but can pull the solenoid and eyewitness if it moves stupid question but I should make sure it’s connected to electric…I can reach all injectors and it’s good to know to move the injector lines…had them loose before but never checked if the fuel lines were loose…good to know Thank you I’ll get a fresh start in the morning
 
Update before the rain…so this morning I plugged in the LP went and added 8 gallons of fuel,loosened all injector fuel lines,bled my LP, removed my do solenoid and didn’t have help so I turned ignition on and flashed it by touching the negative cable to battery and it sucker the plunger in but didn’t return to out position when taking neg cable off but not sure if it should, reinstall the solenoid and cranked the engine around 8 times at intervals and still no fuel to the clear return..so should I recheck the solenoid or should it automatically pop back out and then decide to look at the PMD connection and took a picture added
 

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If you do that and it starts- just screw in the solenoid and it will die. If it doesn’t because the solenoid ever failed in the open position, just pick the clear return line shut and that will stop it.
 
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