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Engine install thread, opinions welcome

I should clarify, i was searching for a fishbite for over a year. Everyone on "#@&$%*place" said I had contaminated fuel, so I tore everything apart in search of it. Fuel tank to FFM. Didn't help at all.

Turns out, it was bad A&B shift solenoids. They replaced the bypass o-ring too and gave it a service. Ran great ever since, you know, besides the cracked piston

I tow a 16,000lbs (empty) toy hauler with it. Does a fine job. Can't wait to hook up to it with the new-ish engine

20150909_132837_zpsczqmovnw.jpg
 
Will L. said:
6.5 engines have HUGE history of cracking heads, blowing head gaskets, cracking blocks, you name it from overheating issues.

Old style pump 97 gpm.
High output pump 130 gpm.
Both use the fanclutch that bolts onto the waterpump with 4 studs. Yours is one of these.
Then it was learned the waterpump wasnt just flowwing too little water, but most of the coolant goes through the driverside and the passanger side overheats and dies. Making it worse the only sensor in the passanger side head tells the driver nothing. The one that tells your gauge in the dash read driver side head, so you tread 1 temp, passanger head is worse off.
Gm finally got it right and made a newer pump that balances the flow through the engine and head. It uses a fan clutch that spins onto the single waterpump mount.

When the new clutch is on, a better fan from the 2001 duramax is used.

Can someone post him the link of details? I suck at finding things.

If you need it together now, just run you pump you have installed, but upgrade when it dies. And NEVER get over 220 unless you are trying to kill the engine.
Click to expand...

I'm aware of the standard vs H.O. vs thread-on water pumps

Long story short...
When I got this truck it had HORRIBLE overheating issues. Pulling >16,000lbs in the mountains in the Alberta "summer" (Nothing over 90°)

Last year i got prepared to install a new rad, HO water pump, duramax fan, hayden clutch & hoses. Realized that it already had an HO water pump. Worked great with the single crossover, cooling issues disappeared. Rarely even got to 210°.

Cracked piston in September

As I'm sure you know, the new #506 already had an HO water pump with dual thermos. Putting the fan/clutch and new rad back in too. Also I made a 1/4" bypass restriction. Interested to see how she'll work.

I didn't know the HO water pump helped the flow on the passenger side.

Good to know, thanks
 
No, it doesnt help passanger side flow. That is why they quit doing the h.o. Waterpump and made the balanced flow waterpump.

They had so many problems not being able to ID ho waterpump in dealerships until they were way into it, and after market companies rebuilding ho housings with 97 gpm impellers that they made the decision to go to the spin on style so the components do not interchange for instant identification.

So which side of the engine did the piston crack- passanger #8 maybe?
 
If you run the old style ho waterpump, at least swap the fittings & so you read the gauge from the passanger rear head. I have seen up to 20 degree differences in locations while using ho water pump, 25 with the original.
 
Will L. said:
No, it doesnt help passanger side flow. That is why they quit doing the h.o. Waterpump and made the balanced flow waterpump.

They had so many problems not being able to ID ho waterpump in dealerships until they were way into it, and after market companies rebuilding ho housings with 97 gpm impellers that they made the decision to go to the spin on style so the components do not interchange for instant identification.

So which side of the engine did the piston crack- passanger #8 maybe?
Click to expand...

I knew you were going to say that...:happy:

It was #8.

Had my old injectors tested, 7 tested poor, and the one on #8 opened at 100 bar- failed miserably.

Was heat a contributing factor? Most likely. It had an HO water pump in it when I got it, proving it had heat issues for a while. I also had it red lining to the point of boiling over a few times, my bad. I've come a long way. So has it.
 
WarWagon said:
I do the vacuum pump delete via ATT turbo. Otherwise it's the same as a power steering pump pulley or Ford IDI vac pump: long bolt with washers. Special tools may be rented.

Yes, the back passenger side 3 GP's and that's 2/3rd due to the difficulty of getting the wires on in the heat shield tubes.

Not prime of the lift pump: I leave the lift pump on to prime the IP, lines and injectors while sitting via IP transfer pump leakage and cranking as some years are questionable IF they turn the lift pump on during cranking. Bad design, failures, WTF ever... It's just quicker to have the damn thing on period to get the engine to start. Then troubleshoot lift pump should run not run, was it wired properly, bad relay, OPS, etc. You know the usual trons headache.

Cranking cools off the glow plugs and prechambers. So once you have cranked it to where the IP has a prime the big thing is quick cranking bursts followed by reheating the self limiting glow plugs before attempting to crank to start again.

Do not use a battery charger with "start the engine booster" on as the voltage from that setting will take out even self limiting plugs.

@Burning oil is correct the aftermarket tank socks do NOT have the bypass valve in them. Snot can be bugs in fuel, a complete disaster, if left uncorrected.
Click to expand...
Boosters have also been known to take out PMD's
 
Will L. said:
If you run the old style ho waterpump, at least swap the fittings & so you read the gauge from the passanger rear head. I have seen up to 20 degree differences in locations while using ho water pump, 25 with the original.
Click to expand...
What is the old style HO water pump? When did the new style come out?
 
The k47 intake didn't start til 97. I had always wished since my 96 had both cooling upgrades that it would've gotten that too.
 
It all depends on the build date as to the running upgrades performed coming down the assembly line.
 
Although I am extremely biased on one of them here are a couple of my favorite articles that deal with towing.

http://www.maxxtorque.com/2012/07/the-65l-diesel-factory-equipped-asthma.html

http://www.maxxtorque.com/2009/09/heath-diesels-65l-diesel-heavy-duty.html

GM screwed up even on the gas 350, 5.7L, V8's when they went to reverse rotation water pumps with unexpected uneven bank flow. Some of the 5.7L 1995 SUV's would boil over like our Yukon till the TSB was done for a new or revised water pump. Heath Diesel has a nice article about the balance flow. IMO Most people focus too much on the cooling system and forget other things that keep heat in the engine like exhaust restrictions. Specifically the high backpressure MPG sucking GMx turbo's that turn fuel into heat requiring power sucking locked in fan clutches via backpressure.

The Obsolete Spring Thermal fan clutch takes too long to come on. So far the Kennedy Diesel low temp fan clutch keeps the temperature spike down because it comes on sooner than anything else out there. IMO Idle AC performance is better with the Duramax fan, but, at speed the steel fan does well at keeping ECT below 210. The aftermarket continues to research better solutions to retrofit to 6.5's.
 
Yeah, Kennedy might have first place at the moment, but if Leroy and his test crew dept ever finish up with the 100% lockup one- I think he will have the trophy.

Locking up 100% makes a huge difference in hmmwvs. I have a friend who tried replacing his bad hmmwv lockup fanclutch with the hayden 2886 (a normally great fanclutch for pickups) and he started overheating on hills that it could handle before. A month later he had a new lockup one back in and all problems went away. Keep in mind this was an ho waterpump, not the balanced flow which we all know makes a ni e difference.

So yeah Leroy and mystery test crew- beat them hard, then sell me one!
 
WarWagon said:
Although I am extremely biased on one of them here are a couple of my favorite articles that deal with towing.

http://www.maxxtorque.com/2012/07/the-65l-diesel-factory-equipped-asthma.html

http://www.maxxtorque.com/2009/09/heath-diesels-65l-diesel-heavy-duty.html

GM screwed up even on the gas 350, 5.7L, V8's when they went to reverse rotation water pumps with unexpected uneven bank flow. Some of the 5.7L 1995 SUV's would boil over like our Yukon till the TSB was done for a new or revised water pump. Heath Diesel has a nice article about the balance flow. IMO Most people focus too much on the cooling system and forget other things that keep heat in the engine like exhaust restrictions. Specifically the high backpressure MPG sucking GMx turbo's that turn fuel into heat requiring power sucking locked in fan clutches via backpressure.

The Obsolete Spring Thermal fan clutch takes too long to come on. So far the Kennedy Diesel low temp fan clutch keeps the temperature spike down because it comes on sooner than anything else out there. IMO Idle AC performance is better with the Duramax fan, but, at speed the steel fan does well at keeping ECT below 210. The aftermarket continues to research better solutions to retrofit to 6.5's.
Click to expand...

I had serious EGT issues too. Still do just not as serious. The PO had removed the soot trap and replaced it with 1 7/8" ID pipe. Replaced it with DE straight pipe. Helped a lot, sounds great. I've discovered roughly ~6psi boost stops egts from climbing as quick.
 
Will L. said:
Yeah, Kennedy might have first place at the moment, but if Leroy and his test crew dept ever finish up with the 100% lockup one- I think he will have the trophy.

Locking up 100% makes a huge difference in hmmwvs. I have a friend who tried replacing his bad hmmwv lockup fanclutch with the hayden 2886 (a normally great fanclutch for pickups) and he started overheating on hills that it could handle before. A month later he had a new lockup one back in and all problems went away. Keep in mind this was an ho waterpump, not the balanced flow which we all know makes a ni e difference.

So yeah Leroy and mystery test crew- beat them hard, then sell me one!
Click to expand...

Is the grille restrictive on hummers? Not familiar with them at all, only actually ever seen 1 or maybe 2. They're not common around here at all.
 
Blue-canoe said:
Is the grille restrictive on hummers? Not familiar with them at all, only actually ever seen 1 or maybe 2. They're not common around here at all.
Click to expand...
The "grille" isn't in front. The radiator opening, or "grille" is in the hood. The radiator is mounted at an angle (nearly flat) above the engine. This was done for two main reasons: to lower the overall vehicle profile; and to also help protect the radiator from impact damage (stationary objects and projectiles) and becoming blocked by debris.
 
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