Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yeah, Husker has it- the top and front grilles are for the radiator, it is laid back like a corvette. F-ing horrible design. Pickups overheat a bit from poor airflow, hummer more so.
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Engine install thread, opinions welcome
- Thread starter Blue-canoe
- Start date
Blue-canoe
Member
Like I said, I know nothing about them. Is the fan still driven by the water pump?
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
No.
Blue-canoe
Member
Anyway, I have a torque of 65ft/lbs for the flywheel, can't find specs for the flexplate. Anyone know if it's also 65?
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Most of them yes. The newest ones are not*, but most of them use a hydraulic locking fanclutch that is either 100% on or off, not variable and reduced rpm like pickups. They use an electric temp switch to open or close a valve that steals off od the power steering pump. The hose with power steering fluid goes to the front of the fanclutch and causes it to lockup or let it spin free. (Like an air fanclutch on a semi.)
The fanclutch is still mounted to the waterpump like regular truck.
* the new ones use a gear drive system that comes off the harmonic balancer/belt pulley that is a convoluted mess of machinery. They are crazy heavy,wear out quick, but put the fan directly in line with the radiator, and match engine speed constant when engauged. After talking to 2 friends in the Marine Corps, no way would I add one to mine.
Thats why I want the one Leroy is currently testing. An electric clutch from an A/C compressor that is 100% on or off by signal from temp sensor or override switch.
Pickup companies use a variable speed version for gaining small improvements in mpg- imo, the drivers foot has massive more impact on mpg than a hair less drag under fine details of conditions.
They run 100% electric fans on cars now and dont need variable speed fans. Over engineering multispeed electric controlled fan clutches imo.
More ranting on the semi horton air clutches- they worked perfectly for decades. Then they started trying variable speed fan for mpg gains, and almost every semi fleet mechanic I know has had to convert from a variable speed to a 100% on/off style to solve overheating issue on one type or another. But this way parts wear out more often and more parts to replace so the mfr is making more $.
The fanclutch is still mounted to the waterpump like regular truck.
* the new ones use a gear drive system that comes off the harmonic balancer/belt pulley that is a convoluted mess of machinery. They are crazy heavy,wear out quick, but put the fan directly in line with the radiator, and match engine speed constant when engauged. After talking to 2 friends in the Marine Corps, no way would I add one to mine.
Thats why I want the one Leroy is currently testing. An electric clutch from an A/C compressor that is 100% on or off by signal from temp sensor or override switch.
Pickup companies use a variable speed version for gaining small improvements in mpg- imo, the drivers foot has massive more impact on mpg than a hair less drag under fine details of conditions.
They run 100% electric fans on cars now and dont need variable speed fans. Over engineering multispeed electric controlled fan clutches imo.
More ranting on the semi horton air clutches- they worked perfectly for decades. Then they started trying variable speed fan for mpg gains, and almost every semi fleet mechanic I know has had to convert from a variable speed to a 100% on/off style to solve overheating issue on one type or another. But this way parts wear out more often and more parts to replace so the mfr is making more $.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Sorry, my mind was thinking -A1 series (Duramax/Allison) and that Rube Goldberg offset gear drive that is $5K a pop.
You need a sealer on the Harmonic balancer crankshaft interface ( thx @THEFERMANATOR ) , locktight on the crank bolt, on the flex plate bolts AND converter to flexplate bolts. Learned the converter bolts come loose without locktight the hard way myself.
Yes: Page 2-158. or page 204 in Adobe...
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...-repair-manual-6-2-l-and-6-5-l-diesels.25481/
Blue-canoe
Member
Figured so on the locktite. Torque converter bolts had red on them from when I had it rebuilt.
NVW
Well-Known Member
Blue-canoe
Member
Blue-canoe
Member
79jasper
Active Member
Those are for the Injector line's. The intake Manifold bolts go through them.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Yes, one under & one over the lines... keeps vibs from cracking lines...
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
"Hey, it's all back together and I only have three bolts left over!"
Blue-canoe
Member
Figured they had something to do with the lines.
Found this a mystery because the #506 doesn't have any and there aren't 6 more to go with the other lines
These are off the #141 with the cracked piston. Them, & a 10mm nut are the only parts unaccounted for. Considering this is my 1st engine swap, if say that's pretty damn good
Blue-canoe
Member
Engines in, partially bolted up. Fought a little bit getting it in, wasn't that bad.
Blue-canoe
Member
Well left over parts are better than say missing parts. Like missing 1/4" worm clamps.
The injection lines have rubber "dampers" in them and are held down by the intake manifold bolts. Where the injection lines pass through the intake runners there should be a damper/clamp. IMO I haven't had them on in forever as I pull the intake too often... The dampers are not all the same for example the ones in front are held by a single bolt. Do not let any injection line contact metal as the high pressure vibration from fuel pulses will wear a hole in them. Never-mind the noise it could cause.