engine dies - throws codes - what do they mean?

[gahammerle]

Dropped the tank. Lines coming out of the tank had a lot of corrosion, but didn't notice any holes. But I have to replace anyway because I snapped them while loosening the connections. I also noticed what looked like a small wet spot (maybe size of a quarter) on the rubber line connecting the tank line to the metal line heading to the LP. The metal lines running along the chassis had some surface rust - I think I may go ahead and replace all those too.

If replacing those lines doesn't do the trick, I guess the next place to look would be the line going to the IP?

 

[buddy]

Yeah, I have seen more than one on this forum with leaks in the valley of the engine on the fuel supply line.

A lot of people replace the lines with rubber to the fuel tank. I have cut several fuel lines in my gasser demo derby cars and pushed rubber hose over them and clamped down with no issues. There must be tools for putting that lip on the end of the fuel lines though.

 

[packratt]

I've used a double flare on fuel lines then slipped the rubber line over.

 

[gahammerle]

Ugh! Tried opening the OS again today. Was able to loosen 3 of the 6 screws, but the other 3 are stripped now. Tried 3 different screw extractors I have and none of them worked - none of them were able to grip inside the hole I drilled.

 

[buddy]

somebody must have really torqued them down, maybe further evidence it may have been messed with. You might just drill the screw heads off with a bit slightly wider than the screw part, pull off the lid then get screws out with a vice grips.

 

[NVW]

Just grab the screw head with a vise grip. One of my screw heads is stripped and that's how I remove it and screw it back in.

Leo

 

[gahammerle]

Got to the OS. Drilled the heads of the stripped screws and used vise-grip to remove the shafts after pulling the cover. Used a magnet to clean up all the metal shavings first before opening it though.

Looks like it is the stock position (like first pic here: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=331587&postcount=1). Although on mine the whole assembly looked closer to driver's side - does it rotate when IP is rotated? That could explain the difference.

I need to run out and get new screws to reassemble and some fuel line. I cut the rusty parts off the lines coming out of the tank and flared the ends using a small socket that could slide inside the tubes. I'm gonna cut the feed line right before the LP since it is rusty up until about 4 inches from LP. I'm gonna cut the return line somewhere ahead of the LP since it is rusted almost to the point where it starts to go vertical. New tank straps and bolts are being delivered today from LMC. I should have some time tomorrow to put it all back together and see if replacing that much of the line solves my problem.

 

[buddy]

If you have a picture of yours that would be great for this thread. I am not familiar with it enough to know if it moves. Your low fuel rates at idle would suggest someone moved it over though. If the fuel line fixes dont completely solve the issue you may consider marking the OS where it is, loosen and try centering it, retighten and see if your fuel rates show 7-8mm3 at idle.

When I get around to retiming my TDCO I'll check the OS position out.

 

[indybeck]

is there a mark where the OS sits? should be on the passenger side. if it is an older pump, it may not have it, but if pump has been replaced, may have a black line.

 

[gahammerle]

A couple pics of the OS.

Also, the screw size for the OS cover is #10-24 3/4"

 

[gahammerle]

Replaced fuel lines from tank to just before LP with rubber lines. Plugged the OS back in minus the filter. As soon as ECT hit 170, it died with code 19. started back up, ran less than a minute and coded 19, 98. Started back up, ran less than a minute and coded 18, 19.

I had picked up a new CPS just in case, so I decided to try to replace that. Got the bolt out, but the sensor wouldn't come out at all. So I put the bolt back in, and then disconnected the CPS to see what it would do. It coded 19 as expected. Went out there later to try to remove the CPS again, got the bolt out and then half the CPS fell out. :mad2: Stuck my finger in the hole to see how deep the other half was and couldn't feel it. Stuck a rod in the hole and it went in about 3-1/4" before hitting anything. Since the CPS is about 2-1/4", I guess that means the other half is somewhere inside the engine. Would it be in the oil pan? Would there be any damage from that half bouncing around inside?

EDIT: gonna start a new thread on the broken CPS

 

[gahammerle]

Got the intake out today. Didn't notice any wet spots underneath - just a bunch of acorn shells. Would there be any wet spots if the lines were letting air in? Gonna replace the lines anyway since I'm there, but just curious.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Got the intake out today. Didn't notice any wet spots underneath - just a bunch of acorn shells. Would there be any wet spots if the lines were letting air in? Gonna replace the lines anyway since I'm there, but just curious.

I would think so as its pressurized. Unless the air is coming from before the LP - Tank part.

 

[gahammerle]

I would think so as its pressurized. Unless the air is coming from before the LP - Tank part.

I replaced the lines from the tank to just before the LP last week - so after replacing the lines on the top, all that would be left to replace would be from LP to filter housing.

 

[Matt Bachand]

I replaced the lines from the tank to just before the LP last week - so after replacing the lines on the top, all that would be left to replace would be from LP to filter housing.

Anything after the lift pump is pressurized, meaning if there were a hole, diesel would be coming out. AFAIK.

 

[gahammerle]

This is an older thread, but I hadn't had time/money to work on the truck for several months. I did get some time recently and got the truck fired up for the first time since late spring.

When it warms up, I get codes 18 & 54 and it dies. I have replaced fuel lines from tank to LP (both supply & return) with rubber lines. Replaced supply line from LP to Fuel Manager with rubber lines. Replaced rubber line from FM to IP. Put in a new Crank Position Sensor (the bits of my old one are still in the oil pan I'm assuming).

Also, my fuel gauge points directly to the right (way past full) even though there is only about 1/4 tank. Is there a ground back at the tank that would be needed for the gauge to work? I dropped the tank way back when and I don't remember if there was one or not.

So since I've replaced the supply lines from the tank to IP, any other ideas to check to eliminate codes 18 & 54? Below is my Scantech snapshot from today.

Snapshot created 11/4/2009 1:41:05 PM
__________________________________________________________________
ENGINE SENSORS
¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯
Engine run time: 00:00:43
Boost pressure (MAP): 14.4 PSI
Desired EGR: 15.23 PSI
Desired idle: 750 RPM
EGR pressure: 14.5 PSI
EGR duty cycle: 0 %
Engine coolant temp: 182.7 F°
Engine speed: 731 RPM
Glow plug relay feedback: 0.1 Volts
Glow plug voltage: 0.1 Volts
Ignition voltage: 13.2 Volts
Wastegate duty cycle: 99.6 %

__________________________________________________________________
INFORMATION SENSORS
¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯
PCM Calibration ID: 4835
Current DTCs: 2
Accel. ped. pos. 1: 0.67 Volts
Accel. ped. pos. 2: 4.33 Volts
Accel. ped. pos. 3: 4.04 Volts
Barometric pressure (BARO): 13.61 PSI
Battery voltage: 13.1 Volts
Fuel temperature: 88.4 F°
Intake air temp: 73.4 F°
Throttle position: 0 %
Turbo boost (Calculated): 0.79 PSI
Voltage reference sensor: 1.3 Volts

__________________________________________________________________
INJECTION PUMP SENSORS
¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯
Actual injection pump timing: 90.02 Deg °
Cam reference missed: 8 Counts
Crank reference missed: 0 Counts
Fuel calibration: 135 Counts
Fuel rate: 11.25 mm³
Fuel rate - Cruise: 0 mm³
Fuel rate - Idle: 10.94 mm³
Fuel rate - Maximum transient: 52.19 mm³
Fuel rate - Throttle requested: 0 mm³
Injection pulse width: 1.62 ms
Injection timing - Measured: 0 Deg °
Injection timing - Desired: 15 Deg °
TDC offset: -0.7 Deg °

__________________________________________________________________
TRANSMISSION SENSORS
¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯
3-2 PWM solenoid duty cycle: 0 %
Cruise target speed: 0 MPH
Cruise speed error: 0 MPH
Current gear of transmission: 1 Gear
Current torque signal pressure: 25 PSI
Current transmission ratio: 1:4 Ratio
Error between desired and actual shift times for latest 1-2 upshift: 0 Sec
Error between desired and actual shift times for latest 2-3 upshift: 0 Sec
Force motor (PCS) - Duty cycle: 42.6 %
Force motor (PCS) - Feedback current: 0.84 Amps
Force motor (PCS) - Reference current: 0.84 Amps
Time of latest 1-2 upshift: 0 Sec
Time of latest 2-3 upshift: 0 Sec
TCC PWM solenoid duty cycle: 0 %
TCC slippage: -24 RPM
Transmission input speed: 776 RPM
Transmission output speed: 0 RPM
Transmission temperature: 105.8 F°
Turbine speed: 776 RPM
Vehicle speed: 0 MPH

 

[buddy]

Holy cow, your timing is so off its funny, no wonder you have these codes

You need to time that bad boy.

 

[buddy]

Oh and it looks like you have an EPROM in you PCM from a 1994, a BXRJ. I think we went over that before, and tried one for a 95 anyway.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Fuel sender ground is on the top of the frame close proximity to the fuel tank/sender.

 

[gahammerle]

Oh and it looks like you have an EPROM in you PCM from a 1994, a BXRJ. I think we went over that before, and tried one for a 95 anyway.

Yes, I tried the one you had sent to me, and it still coded - but that was before replacing all the fuel lines.

I believe the previous owner had the EPROM reprogrammed. Is it bad to have a '94 chip in a '95?