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Dyno 2-6-2010 304HP and 525TQ Max

How would you know Matt ? Not trying to be funny , just asking a question .
 
How would you know Matt ? Not trying to be funny , just asking a question .

I have a paid membership there. The same information is covered well in both sites. Participation in the 6.5 section was extremely low last time I was on which was 6+ months ago... Missy and a few others would respond with good answers. When I'd check back in weekly or what not there were only a few threads unread.

When I check in daily here, there is a page of threads, with answers from many members here.

Both sites probably have 99% of these 6.5's covered, but the answers, and 'how to' diagnostics just seem far more elaborate here, and quicker responses.

I'm not knocking down that site, just it doesn't have the traffic. Its like you wait for a few specific mods to respond.. sometimes a long time.

It was a complete waste of my 20 dollars to join. I don't know what I would find there, but it fell far short of my expectations. I expected bells n whistles and more since I actually paid moneys.

I wasn't impressed at all.
 
I have a paid membership there. The same information is covered well in both sites. Participation in the 6.5 section was extremely low last time I was on which was 6+ months ago... Missy and a few others would respond with good answers. When I'd check back in weekly or what not there were only a few threads unread.

When I check in daily here, there is a page of threads, with answers from many members here.

Both sites probably have 99% of these 6.5's covered, but the answers, and 'how to' diagnostics just seem far more elaborate here, and quicker responses.

I'm not knocking down that site, just it doesn't have the traffic. Its like you wait for a few specific mods to respond.. sometimes a long time.

It was a complete waste of my 20 dollars to join. I don't know what I would find there, but it fell far short of my expectations. I expected bells n whistles and more since I actually paid moneys.

I wasn't impressed at all.

Same here. I think that the people on this site are more performance oriented too and that is what I was looking for.
 
I also have a paid membership . The part that I like is the structure of the site . As was stated , most of the knowledge base comes from members that post on this site . If you count the previous site , this could be the third version to evolve from The Page . You have to go back and look at some of the results that are taken for granted like the 18:1 pistons . This was a project that was done and written in full detail . Bill Heath also wrote about his diesel drag truck . Another test was actually done with glow plugs 9G , 11G , 60G and others to compare the damage of a fauly controller . No one else did these types of tests , and others , for the 6.2/6.5 diesels . There are still a few that do what I think of as R&D ( ATT ) , but not to the scale that the Diesel Page did and still does .
 
Very true on those special Dyno articles and publications. They offer some nice feature trucks and articles for sure.

You are right about the evolution of the sites. I use to skip around all 3 for a while... Then it just got redundant. I'm fond of the userbase here, so thats a huge bias.

Knowledge is priceless. The beauty of it is we don't have to pick and choose. We can have all 3.
 
Here is the lineage, Page was the 1st web site of any notoriety founded in 1996 for 6.2/6.5 assistance, I joined Page when I bought my 1st 6.5 in 2000, at the time it was THE site for the best 6.5 info, but it had a subscription fee that had to be paid to access the best information and the archived past information.

There was a member forum area that was free to access, but the tech articles only remained free for a month or so, then the content was posted in the members reference area that you had to pay fee to access, which was fine; as there really was no other site fit to go to for decent 6.5 info.

The forum area was a secondary feature, Page's prime feature were the tech articles which as I said earlier you had to pay to access on line, or purchase the re-printed articles/summary books, which I highly recommend that one have in their 6.5 library.

Once the Dmax came on the scene you could see a shift in participation in the 6.5 area to less 6.5 content to more Dmax, without going into details which I don't remember fully, but out of some vendor to member difficulties, Nick D Amico and a few others jumped ship to form Diesel Place, the software used there lent itself to easier member participation than the older software then used at Page.

Page was less user friendly, you could not edit your posts, or add pictures direct within post and a number of other features not then found at Page, then there was a server crash @ Page and a significant amount of content was lost, there was no 6.5 traffic at Place to speak of, myself and a few others that are now also here and some no longer here, built the 6.5 section at Place, the whole FAQ area was our creation, info readily found at Page if you had a paid subscription.

We also added much content not found at Page, this was about 2003, Page was/is a "internet magazine" 1st before being a forum, owners of that site generate income thru service subscriptions, and advertising, so they have the incentive & $$$ to make more professional looking articles, but also exercising more control over content. Sort of old adage you get what you pay for, free member submitted content, or edited/proofed content one generates revenue from.

Place and now here was/is a free hangout where members drive content with personal and shared experiences, allowing IMO a better exchange of ideas, an administration shift with the sale to Auto forums many of us there did not like the new style and crossed over to found this site.

Same knowledge base is here, notice once you drill down into technical reference areas at Place how similar it is to the content here, well could it be they put a new cover on an old book, same authors there are here, the new staff at Place has just changed the look of the cover, sort of like a reprint of a 1st edition original :wink5: there is some new content there but not as much as here.

When comparing Place to TTS remember the content there was started in 2003 and stopped growing in content and breadth of experience in 2008 when a few others and myself started building our new home here.

So 5 years of creation there, vs what we started rebuilding here in 2008, IIRC this June will be our 2 year anniversary TDP/TTS; I think for such a short time we've come pretty far, we are still growing, staff has taken new jobs all way around so less time to devote to rebuilding, recent merge with Diesel Hauling site has added some additional strength as a community.

Even though we are very GM oriented here, we allow discussion all brands, and I'm sure this is THE SITE with most 6.5 performance discussions on the web; here in 6.5 land, what I affectionately like to call "Jurassic Park" home of the dinosaur Diesel tech; our prime motivation when we started was to rebuild a place the 6.5 longevity & assistance oriented 6.5er to find help, as we started to have more & more folks push the 6.5s performance envelope past 250rwhp, we added the performance area.

I owe a great deal to Page and past members there, it was my elementary education for the 6.5, most of us after owning/maintaining these ourselves for 10+ years are well beyond what is currently available @ Page or Place now for the 6.5 and now we are THE 6.5 web resource.

Wen Page was in it's prime the 6.5 was only 8 years old, while 18:1 was touted as a must do for the 6.5 at Page, not all of us subscribe to that, nor am I convinced that splays also advocated at Page 1st really necessary, not that Page is wrong just a different opinion that I choose to follow, as there have been many changes since 2000 when the Page project truck with those features was built, but that is another discussion.

Bottom line after this lengthy response is if you don't see it ask, probably one of us here has been there, done that, and got the tee shirt. :D
 
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back to the original article one of the things that caught my attention was lowering the pop pressure for more power. any ideas on why?
 
He has a db2 pump. I lowered mine also,mainly because of bad injector pump,but I often thought less is more,my olds diesel pop pressure was around 900 psi,and seemed to get lots of fuel.
 
VERY curious about the following quote:

> Re-sealed leaky head studs in engine (these are miserable fasteners to seal).

How did this problem make itself apparent, and how did you address it? And most importantly, did it work ????

They become apparent four ways:

1.) Oil Level rising.
2.) Reduction in coolant in the recover tank.
3.) In the CDR you'll see whiteish goo, or in my case the CDR Vent tube.
4.) One of the 4 exposed head studs will start leaking externally.

There isn't a "fix" I'm going to RTV my next set in.

I really wouldn't recommend head studs, and custom engines I build and sell to others I won't install them even if requested due to the very high risk they'll leak coolant into the oil. I'm using them in this engine because of the ease of just re-using them and the "strength" well, maybe.

Injectors... Yeah a lower pressure nets more power, try it and see.

I'm going to see if I can find the lowest pressure where more fuel in the chamber is still achieved without causing other issues (starting, white smoke at idle, atomization/combustion/efficientcy). All this applies to the DB2, jury is still out on the MFI DB4 (sitting on bench) in regard to pop pressure.
 
Have you found a DB4 housing that bolts directly to a 6.5,or is it a DB2 with DB4 parts.
 
Injectors... Yeah a lower pressure nets more power, try it and see.

I'm going to see if I can find the lowest pressure where more fuel in the chamber is still achieved without causing other issues (starting, white smoke at idle, atomization/combustion/efficientcy). All this applies to the DB2, jury is still out on the MFI DB4 (sitting on bench) in regard to pop pressure.

So, could the low pop cause Idling/low RPM range operation? Does this only help if you are pushing continued high RPM? I'm thinking of towing advantages.
 
Studs

They become apparent four ways:

1.) Oil Level rising.
2.) Reduction in coolant in the recover tank.
3.) In the CDR you'll see whiteish goo, or in my case the CDR Vent tube.
4.) One of the 4 exposed head studs will start leaking externally.

There isn't a "fix" I'm going to RTV my next set in.

I really wouldn't recommend head studs, and custom engines I build and sell to others I won't install them even if requested due to the very high risk they'll leak coolant into the oil. I'm using them in this engine because of the ease of just re-using them and the "strength" well, maybe.

Thanks so much for the information... much appreciated.

A couple more q's?

1. Oil level rose? You noticed a high level before (or without) noticing any milkiness in the oil? Or only noticed in the CDR/tube, but not on the dipstick?

2. What DID you use to seal the studs? TFE? Loctite? Or.. ?

Might add that a couple people on here reported good results with several different approaches to sealing. TFE paste, TFE tape, and RTV were all successful, iirc.

Welcoming any and all feedback/suggestions as I'm about to install mine, and would really like to do it exactly once...
 
Permatex hi-temp thread sealant (white small tube)
ARP Thread sealant with PTFE
Permatex purple thread sealant

They all work for awhile, really. It's long-term and months down the road that they always leak. Not saying they all leak, usally it's just one under the cover on one obscure side.

The oil level rises because I check before I start the engine periodically (never uses any oil) and it'll be high when I got a problem, usually at or less than half a quart equivalent on the stick. This is noticed the next time I play because the pressurized cooling system had time to bleed down into my oil after a shutdown. I'm sure that once the thing is up to operating temperature it evaporates and some of the reminants go out the CDR of course. So I don't really know what the oil level looks like (with a known leak) after it's been running awhile and "cooked" off the water/oil/normal condensate in the crankcase. The leaks are usually small enough to NOT turn the oil milky. When you have an engine that turns the oil milky you have a LARGE leak into the crankcase somewhere. Worked on a gasser 5.7L recently that was using a GALLON of water a day for 20 miles or so. The intake manifold gasket was pushed into the valley leading to water getting into the oil. It didn't turn the oil milky if that gives you an idea of how much water has to get into the oil before it turns to milk.

I hear good things about the GM thread sealant, I have a tube that I'd like to try, I also have my specific RTV too. I'm not working towards taking the heads off soon or anything and I don't have a leak right now, so...

My only recommendation is still to not use them in your daily driver.

I think that eventually they'll be a problem. I also don't feel that the fasteners are the sole reason for head gasket failures. I only see failures on the end ports, got a fix for that soon enough though.

I've seen the regular factory head bolts leak at the threads but contain the leak by the sealant under the head of the bolt. Coolant doesn't get into the oil that way.

The problem with the studs is that when one leaks at the threads below it's going to leak through the threads and the nut above, doesn't come underneath the washer...
 
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