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Duel lift pump question.

When I ordered my kit it was 389 + shipping.

The blue hose is blue simply because it from Eaton. I've got the same hose in black from other suppliers.

It is 1/2".

The pump also comes with the push lock fittings and some wiring.

It's enough to run your own system from tank to FM. You need a but more if you're going to run a prefilter anywhere besides right in line with the run. Mine is over to the side under the bed which necessitated a bit of extra length:

DSC04082.jpg


I added some fittings and extra length, relays and wiring because...well, I've been called a perfectionist more than once.....

You also will need to find a way to connect the 1/2" push lok hose to the filter manager. I drilled it out and tapped it for a fitting:
DSC04063.jpg


DSC04065.jpg


DSC04069.jpg


DSC04070.jpg


DSC04076.jpg


I also took the opportunity to do ftb ver 2.0 while I was in there.


I run mine at 12-15 psi. You don't want to go any higher on a ds4. My pressure, doesn't drop much more than a couple psi at wot.

My stock fuel system was in good shape, but I ripped it all out because I wanted better.

Next up is a sump with 1/2" feed for the tank.

Now, time for a reality check:

1/2" feed line and a raptor pump is complete and total over kill for a 6.5.

ANY 6.5, mild or wild.

These things were built to feed far more GPH/HP than our engines could ever hope to make.

But I like what I like and I'm going to get it!

You have to decide if that's reason enough for you to pony up the extra dough....
 
Looks like a well done job. Three questions. 1- the way it looks to me, it looks like the filter housing runs a risk of being ripped off if you (not specifically you) were plowing snow and got, shall we say, "aggressive". Could just be the camera angle though. 2- with all the talk lately about better filtration, would we want to keep the stock GM? Thought we were switching to a racor type set-up. Still looks good though. 3- how does it run now?
 
Jorge6.5 said:
I also want to with the Racor. Im not gonna waste my time with the stock ffm.
Click to expand...

You can go that way if you wish

But you have to take some things into consideration.

You still need a filter between the lift pump and the ip.

The filter should be a 2-5 micron ( what the stocker is to protect the ip iirc)

You need a fuel heater if you're in any kind of cold climate.

You need a way to bleed the air after a filter change.

You need a way to drain water if it gets in there

You should have a way to know if theres water in your fuel (WIF sensor and light).

The stock filter manager incorporates all this in one neat package.

If you can do that with a racor head and a few add ons, then have at 'er!

The FM was just a nice, neat and tidy way for me to get it all in one package with filters I can get ( or order) anywhere I might need them.
 
sshewins said:
Looks like a well done job. Three questions. 1- the way it looks to me, it looks like the filter housing runs a risk of being ripped off if you (not specifically you) were plowing snow and got, shall we say, "aggressive".
Click to expand...

Nah. I'd have to get into the bedside sheet metal first. That's also an extra long filter for the Volvo expedition vehicle it came out of:

http://www.unicat.net/fr/info/MD57-VolvoFM12.html

It's new and came with the filter head so I'm using up before changing to the new filters. The replacement filter is 4 inches shorter. I bought that specific filter head because it has a hand priming pump ( not a rubber bulb, turn a lever and a plunger handle comes out) and has a fuel pre-heater built in to it by running the bypass fuel back through the head on it's way to the tank ( not hooked up yet).

sshewins said:
2- with all the talk lately about better filtration, would we want to keep the stock GM? Thought we were switching to a racor type set-up. Still looks good though.
Click to expand...

See response in the next post up.

sshewins said:
3- how does it run now?
Click to expand...

The fuel system made the truck run smoother when it was installed. Hard to quantify really. Just ran smoother with steady fuel pressure not droping below 10 psi. However, there was nothing wrong with my stock system when I ripped it out either and it ran fine.

As for now, my truck is so far from stock there's no real way to answer that.

It's a great daily driver the hauls an 8500lb, 35 ft travel trailer without breaking a sweat....
 
Racor offers all that

Check out "Racedaymechanic" he replaced his ffm with a remote mounted racor that blows the stock one out the water. All above mentioned pieces are available he also has them added on minus the heater.
 
Jorge6.5 said:
Racor offers all that

Check out "Racedaymechanic" he replaced his ffm with a remote mounted racor that blows the stock one out the water. All above mentioned pieces are available he also has them added on minus the heater.
Click to expand...

Go get one then.

I've seen several units on several trucks. Works fine for them.

Like I said, I already had the FM on my truck, it works fine and incorporates all the features in one neat package. It's never given me a lick of trouble. Filters are easy to come by anywhere. I don't understand why guys hate it so much. All the troubles I've seen guys have with it is usually self induced or caused by simple age. Change a seal, change a sensor and it's all good to go again for another 20 odd years.

Racor heads are good pieces of kit. No arguing that fact...if you feel better having one under the hood then go get 'er!

:)
 
No need to catch an attitude, Just getting some info out there. By no means was i trying to bad mouth your setup.

I like you setup, just saying there is always room for improvement.

My main reasoning behind the whole Racor ffm idea that i got is i can mount it in a more ideal location under the hood rather then being buried under everything on the engine.

But this has got me doing some thinking, like i said above i like your setup and yes my ffm still operates normal. So hows about this, I think it would more cost effective to upgrade the ffm as you did to yours and then make a custom mount to mount the stock unit in a more easily reachable location say maybe on the firewall or what not.

Im gonna do some more thinking about this, Thanks.
 
I think you read something that wasn't meant to be there.

No attitude was intended.

It's All intended as light hearted banter about a couple different setups.

Not trying to drag down your ideas at all..

Lots of people have swapped out for Racor units, lots of people have moved the FM to a better location like the drivers side inner fender.

It all works....
 
Great White, You mentioned we would want a 2-5 Micron filter in the fm. Is that what the typical fram filter from auto parts store might carry? Or would we need to find a different source? Don't mean to put you on the spot if you don't know
 
sshewins said:
Great White, You mentioned we would want a 2-5 Micron filter in the fm. Is that what the typical fram filter from auto parts store might carry? Or would we need to find a different source? Don't mean to put you on the spot if you don't know
Click to expand...

I've heard 2,5 and even 10 microns quoted as the stock filters capacity.

When I look it up on the Wix web site, it lists it as a 14 micron.

Stanadyne lists filters for the fm series in 2,5 and 10 microns:

http://www.stanadyne.com/view.php?id=26

This document:

http://www.stanadyne.com/docs/pubf/99889 FM Brochure 11-10.pdf

Indicates where the filter is the primary ( only) filter, it's loaded with a 2 or 5 micron.

What do we have?

:dunno:

But I'd go to a 2 micron if I had the choice with my 10 micron prefilter already in the system.....
 
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