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Does it ever stop bleeding?

Crankme69

Crankme69

New Member
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Location
Illinois the Corruption Capitol of USA
:aargh4:

I have owned my truck for about 2 yrs & prolly close to 35K miles. I new going in that it had high miles & would need stuff replaced...but when or does it ever end:???:

So far I have replaced: :(

OPS
PMD
Front rotors & pads
Batteries both
Alternator
Starter
AC compressor
LP
GP's
Crank pulley
Harmonic Balancer
Vac pump
New front driver side brake line & it needs rear brake lines from the tee still!

And it prolly needs new injectors

I'm really getting sick of spending all my free time either searching for parts or installing them.

I also think most of the replacement parts we install are JUNK!

Ok rant off :eek:

Yes it did start waaaaaayyyy better this morning, thanks to my good friends from here...:thumbsup:
 
Get yourself an ATT and you can delete the vac pump from your list.:hihi::Justwait2:
 
Get yourself an ATT and you can delete the vac pump from your list.:hihi::Justwait2:

They're old trucks. Positives include no monthly payment and cheap parts. Negative is you're going to be replacing stuff all the time.:agreed:
 
when i look at used car ads i always see if they include stuff they have done maintence wise recently cause those are the ones that usually be less out of pocket for me later down the road
 
Well lets see Hmmmmmmm. YOU TRUCK HAS 217 THOUSAND MILES on it, Everthing is worn out or close to being worn out, Ill bet you got that ol beater pretty cheap compared To a Powerstroke with the same miles and year, Nothing is free my friend The best thing to do when you buy and older vehicle with lots of miles is to do some proventative maintainence before you start driving it, When I bought my truck the engine was blown but it had 200k on the chassis so I went thru the truck and fixed or Replaced most everthing I could think of BEFORE I started driving it, Most everthing on your list are stuff that needs attention, I suspect you drive until something breaks and then fix that one thing, These old 6.5s are a Shadetree Mechanic Truck, They will treat you well but your gonna have to get dirty and spend some coin but if you are smart about it You will end up with a truck that will serve you faithfully for many years to come And NO PAYMENTS, I buy and fix up and sell 6-8 vehicles a year, Peolple nearly give away 10-15 year old cars that are fine but need a little TLC They all have been neglected But a few Hours of my time and a few bucks and I can regularly double my money in a few weeks, I should add that whatever I buy down here is rust free, the lines all look as though it came from the factory last week, Im from Michigan and I know all about Salt and Rust, my advice would be to stay away from trucks or cars north of the Mason Dixson line as at 200K miles they are not worth putting any money into IMHO the best thing you could do is Put Illinois in your RearView Mirror and never look back
 
Crankme69 said:
:aargh4:

I have owned my truck for about 2 yrs & prolly close to 35K miles. I new going in that it had high miles & would need stuff replaced...but when or does it ever end:???:

So far I have replaced: :(

OPS
PMD
Front rotors & pads
Batteries both
Alternator
Starter
AC compressor
LP
GP's
Crank pulley
Harmonic Balancer
Vac pump
New front driver side brake line & it needs rear brake lines from the tee still!

And it prolly needs new injectors

I'm really getting sick of spending all my free time either searching for parts or installing them.

I also think most of the replacement parts we install are JUNK!

Ok rant off :eek:

Yes it did start waaaaaayyyy better this morning, thanks to my good friends from here...:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Sell it and buy a Duramax. Mikey will buy it....:rof:
 
If you keep passing the other truck on freeway without a working LP and bad OPS, you will never stop bleeding. LOL!!!
 
They stop bleeding and they stop breeding, then you know it's time to trade for a younger model.:hihi:
 
Raceday thanks for the candid feedback...I have never considered my truck a beater!

Duramax, heck I already have one mortgage!

LOL yea I had that coming about the LP sorry!!!

Bleeding & breeding ha well hmm yup U B right about that LOL!!!

Ok you guys are the best...thanks for the pick me up!

Really I do worry some about the quality of the replacement parts we have available to us, kinda stinks IMO, almost like big business has sabotaged our parts to help the car manufacturing industry...it's a conspiracy I tell ya...LOL
 
That looks like the inexpensive list to me. No engine ,transmission or injection pumps on there. It could be much worse. No such thing as a free ride. Just injectors on a duramax or power stroke would cost more than everything you've done. Gassers have plenty go wrong at this age and miles also.
 
bk95td said:
That looks like the inexpensive list to me. No engine ,transmission or injection pumps on there. It could be much worse. No such thing as a free ride. Just injectors on a duramax or power stroke would cost more than everything you've done. Gassers have plenty go wrong at this age and miles also.
Click to expand...

Yup I didn't even add all the enhancement performance/reliability stuff, that is mostly listed in my signature.

That is concerning me also, at some point/milage I am going to be forced to make a decision, it ain't gonna last forever. It is in very good shape for a truck that spent it's entire life here in the snow/salt belt.

I'll juts keep plugging along with it...injectors are next, along with timing chain & gears soon after.

I prolly should just pull the friggin motor out & do the head gaskets, just a tad skeerd of what I might find.

On the positive note, it only spent the majority of it's life pulling a 1500 truck around with the largest tow being a bass boat & based on the condition & lab oil analysis suggest that is was well cared for by the original owner for the 1st 175K.

I do HATE car payments so...
 
The point you make a decision will be biased on your current $$ on hand to buy something newer with less than 100K on it. Otherwise the new parts with a lifetime warranty are cheaper to swap then starting over with another beater.

Trick is to buy one with a blown up engine or trans and then spend it's book value on fixing it up. Hint: insure the thing for what you have in it so when the Elk plays "tag" you can start over with another beater...
 
WarWagon said:
The point you make a decision will be biased on your current $$ on hand to buy something newer with less than 100K on it. Otherwise the new parts with a lifetime warranty are cheaper to swap then starting over with another beater.

Trick is to buy one with a blown up engine or trans and then spend it's book value on fixing it up. Hint: insure the thing for what you have in it so when the Elk plays "tag" you can start over with another beater...
Click to expand...
:rof:The story of my life:rolleyes5::WTF::WTF:
 
Looks like a short list of replacements to me...

Look at it this way:

When Ferminator posted a while back that the injectors on his LB7 cost him 1200 bucks to replace, my ol' 6.5 looked pretty darn good all of a sudden.

No matter how much work I had to do on it.

Of course, working on vehicles is a hobby for me anyways (current stable: 2004 300M, 1962 T bird, 98 Sierra, 74 Scout II, 83 Mustang 5.0 and always on the lookout for another "filly") so breaking down is just an excuse to make it stronger.....
 
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