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DIY BD1 Programming - Burn your own chips!

Would you mind sharing what you've got? I'd like to do a diff between a stock tune and your tune.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
 
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Best way I found is to number the tune, then I take a scanner and run the truck watch where it smokes write it down make modifications and then re run the truck to see if the mod works. So far it is working for me, have about 25 hours total drive and desk time into this tune. Real time tuning makes it much quicker, pull over make changes drive on. don't like go back to my original tune start over get something good keep it next version then all over again. It is time consuming but I have found that the one tune fits all does not work. Most tunes I have looked at only modify the timing and fuel table. Only one guy has done more that I have seen. I was at 3500 rpm today and smooth as glass, sucked the restrictor indicator down on my k47 air box with a large filter, now what do I do.


Mine will do that at WOT.
 
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Best way I found is to number the tune, then I take a scanner and run the truck watch where it smokes write it down make modifications and then re run the truck to see if the mod works. So far it is working for me, have about 25 hours total drive and desk time into this tune. Real time tuning makes it much quicker, pull over make changes drive on. don't like go back to my original tune start over get something good keep it next version then all over again. It is time consuming but I have found that the one tune fits all does not work. Most tunes I have looked at only modify the timing and fuel table. Only one guy has done more that I have seen. I was at 3500 rpm today and smooth as glass, sucked the restrictor indicator down on my k47 air box with a large filter, now what do I do.

I installed one of the indicators on my 94'. Same thing happens to me.
 
Maybe when you get your truck sorted out you can loan the real time stuff to other tuners. I've had 50+ chips in my truck at this point, and I think my tune from a month ago was the best I had.

Never had good luck loaning anything to someone. Most of the time it goes horribly wrong. But not saying it won't happen. I would share the tune I have but not completely done with it yet, and If you don;t have a larger turbo your truck may not like it much. I get a steady almost half a PSI of boost at 1332 rpm now. So yes tuning makes A BIG difference in how your truck runs.
 
I agree about loaning your emulator. That sort of thing hurts friendships. Here's an idea. How about several of us chipping in for a setup that could be part of the drip speed website.
 
maybe someone could take the tune and add the auto trans settings if possible. I'd be interested to see how it runs in mine.
I have the trans settings in my definition file made by Rainstate. BUT I DON"T HAVE A clue what to do with them. Maybe talk with TheFermanator he knows his stuff about tuning, trust me.
 
I would just take your file, compare it against the stock bin its based on, then duplicate the changes starting with an automatic bin, but I really don't have a clue what i'm doing. I was just happy to be able to burn the chips, I figured learning what I was doing would be the next step =)
 
I would just take your file, compare it against the stock bin its based on, then duplicate the changes starting with an automatic bin, but I really don't have a clue what i'm doing. I was just happy to be able to burn the chips, I figured learning what I was doing would be the next step =)

This is my line of thinking as well. It's easier for me to learn by seeing a comparison between a stock program and a tuned program.
 
Not until I get it set up correctly and make sure there are no problems with it. Trying to see how it works on OBD 2 as well, I want to make sure there are absolutely no problems.


Made more adjustments today. Boost .2 tenths of a pound at 1293 rpm no shifting needed fifth gear no smoke under load. 110 MPH today and very little smoke 15.5 lbs boost through an intercooler set up this time. Getting close, fuel mileage is up considerably (Perceived not yet documented) and using third gear where I would have had to down shift to second before with the other tunes I had; definitely not tunes for the A-team Turbo. Also there is but loads of power, and man does the turbo spool fast, cruising now have 1.5 psi at 1850 to 1900, consistent, and I can burn 70 mm of fuel at below 1600 rpm and get very little smoke before it goes away. GO figure that tuning would be such a BIG BIG BIG variable, for properly setting up your truck. I have a sheet eating grin every-time I drive it now. Hats off to Thefermanator for putting me in the right direction. :agreed: and to Rainstate for the custom definition file. More things to adjust than the other definition files. :skep:
 
Made more adjustments today. Boost .2 tenths of a pound at 1293 rpm no shifting needed fifth gear no smoke under load. 110 MPH today and very little smoke 15.5 lbs boost through an intercooler set up this time. Getting close, fuel mileage is up considerably (Perceived not yet documented) and using third gear where I would have had to down shift to second before with the other tunes I had; definitely not tunes for the A-team Turbo. Also there is but loads of power, and man does the turbo spool fast, cruising now have 1.5 psi at 1850 to 1900, consistent, and I can burn 70 mm of fuel at below 1600 rpm and get very little smoke before it goes away. GO figure that tuning would be such a BIG BIG BIG variable, for properly setting up your truck. I have a sheet eating grin every-time I drive it now. Hats off to Thefermanator for putting me in the right direction. :agreed: and to Rainstate for the custom definition file. More things to adjust than the other definition files. :skep:


NICE!!!!!! I get a grin every time I drive mine as well. And I'm running Heaths tune. I would love to try an OBDII tune. I don't know if I am just getting used to driving it, or if the ECM is adjusting better, but I really don't get any smoke anymore unless I lay into it. I am pretty happy with Heath's tune. Wish I lived closer to Detroit so we could mess around with tuning on mine.
 
Go, Slim Shady! I'm VERY interested in the MPG improvement aspect, especially if you ran a highway loop with no "gear heading" to see what your final tune does for Hwy MPG. Would love to see what you can come up with, after you're done tuning for power/performance, for a good economy tune for an OBD-II w/auto transmission '98 K2500 Burb. As you know when we talked on the phone that time, I'm after a tune/turbo/injector combo (with appropriate intake/exhaust mods, possibly including running a Duramax IC, too) that will yield me consistently 22-25 mpg highway @ 75 mph (possibly with a front/rear gear change from 3.73 to 3.42 to lower cruising RPM's, wish they made a 3.21 for the 9.25" IFS diff like they do for the 10.5" 14 bolt)
 
Not until I get it set up correctly and make sure there are no problems with it. Trying to see how it works on OBD 2 as well, I want to make sure there are absolutely no problems.

Honestly why would you release it...I know... 1.cause you are a stand up guy and 2. because it will prove the ATT to be just what you claimed...

...but when other tuners will just copy/steal the final product...makes you wonder...either the other tuners are incompetent or they are purposely not getting the true potential out of the ATT for reasons yet to be determined...I could be wrong, but my skepticism says to me that having an interest in seeing the ATT fail because of vested interests in another turbo(financially, friendships or whatever) could be the reasons...JMHO
 
Hopefully, this will help sell the turbos. Personally, a hangup to upgrading the turbos is that the tunes are nearly as much as the turbo, and are really necessary to make the upgrade worthwhile. Streamlining the process with cheap tunes is a great way to sell hardware. What I'm curious about is how you are testing obd2 as well.
 
Hopefully, this will help sell the turbos. Personally, a hangup to upgrading the turbos is that the tunes are nearly as much as the turbo, and are really necessary to make the upgrade worthwhile. Streamlining the process with cheap tunes is a great way to sell hardware. What I'm curious about is how you are testing obd2 as well.


Really my only design was to try and get my truck to run to it's full potential, not to sell anything. The multiple tune is a good gimick and would not be needed "in my opinion" if the tune was right. Trying the latest tune. I have great pulling power, nice smooth idle and power up to 3900 rpm that is smooth and below 3400 rp mostly smoke free at all times, above the 3400 rpm I get a light to moderate haze of grey smoke. EGTS are never above 1200 at wot for as long as I want to keep it there, full fuel 79 / 80 mm fuel showing on the scanner data logger. I will do some tweaking still, it is consistent that boost starts at 1255 to 1293 in fifth gear at 30 mph when given fuel and loading it slightly. Not sure what gear ration that comes out to for the final drive. I have 235 85 16 tires and a four ten gear ration overdrive is .075 if I am correct. I don't even need to shift out of overdrive, to keep moving in traffic, fourth gear is not as big a drop from third as it used to be. Turbo has consistent 1.7 to 2.1 psi boost at 1900 and boost almost always at .3 to .5 at 1550 and above. Egts cruising range from 450 to 650 depending on load.

I know how to set up the manual DB2 pumps to run a larger turbo as well. They are adjustable to a greater extent than most know. I have given the tunes so far to two people that can make them work in OBD2 and will be having a third party test the obd1 tune in an automatic. then I will know more. We will see if my truck is just an anomolie or it is the start of a different idea in how to tune.

I think the need for multiple tunes has gone away, you can have it all, well most of it. It is getting close. The stuff from a couple, so called "unbiased" testers regarding my product is BS and outright lies in more ways than you can imagine, and should be taken as such and I quote ("with a grain of salt"or in this case bag of salt) the agenda is not to present factual information in any manner, it is to present manufactured data set up to fail one product and sell another: one of the oldest marketing schemes in the business world, kind of like a taste test with people you know hate one taste and like yours.

If you need 20 psi boost between 1000 rpm and 1800 rpm then you have a totally different truck than mine and your application is something that I have no knowledge to comment on. Many people are stuck on boost numbers: we can only get so much fuel to burn before parts go BOOM. I like power, fuel economy and durability in my truck and to be able to tow REAL heavy if I want to when I want to. Just my way of driving.

These are just my opinions and thoughts on the tuning programs, I am not a tuner nor do I claim to be, I am just telling you what I know from first hand experience tuning my truck in real time. I am working on the obd 2 with two of the best tuners I know and respect, they are no charlatans.
 
the agenda is not to present factual information in any manner, it is to present manufactured data set up to fail one product and sell another: one of the oldest marketing schemes in the business world, kind of like a taste test with people you know hate one taste and like yours.

I'm a neutral party, but since this has been turned into an ATT vs ___ thread also...your logic fails as the ____ side is not selling anything. They claim a tune is not needed to get benefits, and advocate buying the _____ from random sellers on fleabay.

If they do have an agenda it's personal not commercial.
 
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