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DIY BD1 Programming - Burn your own chips!

Anything new? Dennis, could you make a thread showing us how you are emulating, or does that involve things that we don't have all the correct components yet?
 
oldblacksmoker said:
Anything new? Dennis, could you make a thread showing us how you are emulating, or does that involve things that we don't have all the correct components yet?
Click to expand...

Yes working on polishing the tune and will be sending one obd 1 tune to someone to try in their truck, so I get some feedback. Lots of tables to adjust and it is amazing what you can customize for your vehicle. I will get the thread on emulating started. If someone wants to do emulation with their OBD1 it cost about 389 dollars to get everything you need from Moates. You get the APU1 burner reader, chips, diesel adapter to read your chip a zif adapter to run in your ecm to switch the chips easily and the biggest thing is you need a definition file that works with a real time emulator, that I have to thank TheFermanator and Rainstate for.

If you decide that you want to do what I have for your OBD1 I will help you get the right parts to do it and we can see about getting the right definition file. The more people working on it the better. The old way of tuning is not necessarily what I like, since I know differently now.
 
I've been following this thread with a great deal of interest. I'm looking forward to learning how this tune works for others.

If I'm understanding correctly this tune is primarily for the ATT, but do you think it could help other non-GM turbos? This summer I replaced the GM-4 with a Holset HX35W. I have noticed differences in how the motor runs, mostly for the positive. The one negative I have noticed is slightly increased EGT readings. I am still running the stock tune, which I know doesn't really compliment the HX35W, and a different tune would be a big help for this turbo.

I don't have the funds for a new tune yet, but was wondering if you, or someone else, could recommend a tune that would be a good fit for the HX35W. I'm going to have to rely on someone else's tuning expertise as I'm not capable of doing that kind of thing, I'm computer illiterate.

Don
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
heck we may even be able to get that frankenpump DS4 going that I know somebody has lurking in there garage that should be capable of an HONEST 120MM3 offuel at 3000RPM's, which would be alot better than the last generation of modified DS4 pumps that were pushing 96MM3 of fuel at 3000RPM's.
Click to expand...

Any updates on this?
 
Woody35 said:
Any updates on this?
Click to expand...

Still waiting for a good definition file, then hopefully teh frankenpump owner will get it wrapped up and bolted on to start playing with. I think it would be neat to have a DS4 pump capable of over 90MM3 of fuel at 3,000RPM's.
 
Back after 17 days of being internet-less (the neighborhood WiFi cafe had a modem problem with their ISP) since I have to use public WiFi due to budget. Avidly following the progress, and eagerly awaiting some real world trials once all the tuning is dialed in for OBD-II as far as HP, torque, boost, EGT's and last but most importantly: Highway MPG's vs. speed and City driving MPG's (driving sanely!).
 
Wow that was a lot of reading! Looking to get in on this as well. I doubt I will be able to do any of this but I have a buddy that knows all that stuff y'all were talkin bout! LOL

Only one problem.....he is a 4-letter F-word guy(Ford). I explained what y'all were up to and he is in.....Because we are gonna put a DS4 on his 7.3 idi!

I have the skills and knowledge of how to set it up. He has the knowledge to handle the chips. May need help with the actual tune.

This way I can get him to do the tune for my Dually as well and get me away from the only tune I have....the SS. :(
 
Not to derail this awesome thread, but can a DS4 work spinning the other way? IIRC the IDI IH (F**d) engines are all gear up front.
 
A guy on OB has done it. Not sure of details yet. I will do a thread when we do............Now how we getting along on tunes? lol
 
The DS4 is gear driven, switch to a chain drive and the rotation will be right.
 
That was just speculation on my part as I don't know how the PS pump is driven. Just want to be clear.
 
Not sure how you would tune for something like that. With a larger plunger DS4 you run into all kinds of reliability problems, and the test stands are set up to expect a certain set of numbers at certain rpms. You have to have a Stanadyne shop willing to work with you on the electronic pump. The manuals are another animal all their own and probably lend themselves to modification better than the DS4. Tuning for the electronic pump with larger plungers may be a little dicey,:???:
 
:popcorn: givemebeer

Love reading about the work you guys are doing. I had been doing my own tuning, admittedly with the what i now know is the Westers xdf, about 8 months ago before an unfortunate head gasket accident(non tuning related) has halted my endeavors. This resulted in a pulling of the 281k mile engine for a fresh performance rebuild that I am currently in the middle of. Anywho, now that I have other 6.5 owners doing custom tuning to talk to and problem solve with, since I was doing it all by myself before :banghead:, my interest has really been peaked again. Thank you :thumbsup: You guys rock.:cool:
 
Testing and tweaking, I like what I have so far, now testing on another members truck. I bet I changed my tune a hundred times. tweaked fuel and everything in the tables to find out what they affect. I like my glow plug settings, and my idle and fuel tweaks (revamps) really.
 
Talk about making a turbo wake up, boost starts at 1283, rpm at around .2 tenths of a pound under light load and .8 at 1283 under medium load in fifth gear. Nice to see 20 plus pounds boost again at 3300 rpm under heavy fuel. I sure didn't like the way some of the tunes had their fuel tables and curves, including the timing curves, well really no curves at all just basic generic timing tweaks, THE Ferminator has the right ideas.
 
You're running lower than stock compression ratio, like around 18:1 on that motor, right? Or is it near stock running with head studs and a girdle to keep the heads on and the bottom end together to run 20+ psi? Can't wait for fuel mileage numbers once you get it all dialed in.
 
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