DIY BD1 Programming - Burn your own chips!

[oldblacksmoker]

Got my burn2 and chip adapter. Funny thing, though, I think maybe my truck may already have a chip in it. My factory chip boosts to 15 psi. Isn't that higher than factor. I think I'll try to read it and see if I can upload the files for folks on here to look at.

 

[thedrip]

I'm getting more serious with the chip adapters, eprom programming deal. Its a pretty serious thought now, I even have an excel spreadsheet for the wife to look at. Purse strings and all that :skep:

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

I would look into some better .XDF files first if you want to get into tuning. I have looked over the stock .bin file, and have found some errors in it. I then started using some of teh other .XDF files and found that some of it's tables looked closer to correct, but others were off.

 

[Slim Shady]

I would look into some better .XDF files first if you want to get into tuning. I have looked over the stock .bin file, and have found some errors in it. I then started using some of teh other .XDF files and found that some of it's tables looked closer to correct, but others were off.

So what is a good definition file to start with?

 

[thedrip]

I don't want to tune for other people, I just want to provide the tools so they can tune for themselves. For a lot less money than other options.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

So what is a good definition file to start with?

Not sure. I know from looking through the stock BPAA.bin file, the boost numbers in it don't match up correctly with the $EC.XDF. With the others he has listed it shows boost numbers that more closely match waht GM would call for in some spots, but not in others. Then again who's to say the BPAA file he has listed is a true stock file. Would be nice to have a known good file read from a chip to verify it. Where exactly in Florida are you guys at? I have an updated GM PROM chip out in the garage for a 6.5 F engine with 4L80E trans and 3.73 or 4.10 gears(BXPY, updated BPAC for a 95 BURB). I would be interested to see how it varies from the earlier cal files as I know it ran quite a bit different than the BPAC chip did, and it had the updated trans files in it for improved 1-2 adaptives.

 

[oldblacksmoker]

I'm in Fort Lauderdale.

 

[Slim Shady]

I have my original chip for the manual trans 6.5 with a 8600 gvw rating 4.10 gears. I should be able to read it and send it (I think )

 

[OrionThade]

I have a burner and a 27FS512 EEPROM. I just need to get a carrier to put it in.

I just towed for the first time tonight since I put the Optimizer in. I'm in need of a towing tune ... I also think I might have an exhaust leak. I was only towing about 4K lbs and I held speed just fine, but my EGT's were through the roof and my Boost gauge was only showing 8 PSI. I hit 1040* for a bit. Too hot for my comfort and for as little weight as I was carrying.

 

[great white]

Nice to see the obdI boys rolling along in this....just a word of caution to all the beginning "tuners" that may soon be mucking around in momma gm's cupboards; go conservative in advancing timing until you learn what it does. Too much advance makes things go boom. Not all at once, but can eventually beat a piston crown in....There are some nice gains to be had once you figure it out though...

 

[Husker6.5]

Something about that expanding flame front trying to push the piston back down against its rotation before reaching TDC. Oops, just a little too much advance can lead to bent rods, destroyed piston crowns or worse.

 

[thedrip]

The BPAA on my site is bit for bit identical to the OEM chip in my truck. I double checked it before burning new chips I'm glad someone that knows what they are doing has joined in, I'm just a Guy that got Google to work.

 

[Slim Shady]

The BPAA on my site is bit for bit identical to the OEM chip in my truck. I double checked it before burning new chips I'm glad someone that knows what they are doing has joined in, I'm just a Guy that got Google to work.

Mine shows up today and yep we are going to be dangerous, THANKS for the warning Great White, he he ha , Yep wiser words never spoken. I wonder who will go boom first? LOL

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

An d also keep in mind with timing, more isn't always better(espescially with the ATT). GM tuned for emissions first, and reliability 2nd. For lighting a turbo off, go into your spool up areas of the timing table and retard it back a few degrees to help with spoolup. By retarding your timing you put more heat through the exhaust and get a quicker spoolup. You need to map out where your cruise areas are as you will want to run advanced timing there for a milage tune, but with the bigger turbos you will want your spoo up areas to be slightly retarded to aid in spool. On the top end you normally want to go for a 50% timing figure, but without knowing the injection duration it is difficult to determine this amount. For people with a GM-X turbo(or still using the vacuum control), lower your boost down to a pound or less in your steady cruise areas for best milage(GM did this in there later tunes, and my updated BXPY PROM has it in it) then bring it back up once you come back into your power areas. I have some ideas in mind for some tuning changes, but until I find what I think is an accurate .XDF file I'm a bit leary to do much in one for somebody else(its one thing if I blow my own engine, it's a different story if one of my tunes hurts somebody elses ).

 

[great white]

An d also keep in mind with timing, more isn't always better(espescially with the ATT). GM tuned for emissions first, and reliability 2nd. For lighting a turbo off, go into your spool up areas of the timing table and retard it back a few degrees to help with spoolup. By retarding your timing you put more heat through the exhaust and get a quicker spoolup. You need to map out where your cruise areas are as you will want to run advanced timing there for a milage tune, but with the bigger turbos you will want your spoo up areas to be slightly retarded to aid in spool. On the top end you normally want to go for a 50% timing figure, but without knowing the injection duration it is difficult to determine this amount. For people with a GM-X turbo(or still using the vacuum control), lower your boost down to a pound or less in your steady cruise areas for best milage(GM did this in there later tunes, and my updated BXPY PROM has it in it) then bring it back up once you come back into your power areas. I have some ideas in mind for some tuning changes, but until I find what I think is an accurate .XDF file I'm a bit leary to do much in one for somebody else(its one thing if I blow my own engine, it's a different story if one of my tunes hurts somebody elses ).

 

[Husker6.5]

Of course it's always fun to play Dr. Frankenstein in the laboratory, but there come a time when you just have to go out and dig up a few bodies to experiment on!:eek6:

 

[thedrip]

Well I ordered PCBs to make adapters. Guess I'll be paying that vending fee soon. Setting up a small website to make things a little easier on anyone that wants one (and easier on me). Will be at least 3 weeks before I'm up and running, takes 2 just to make the PCBs, then I have to put the adapters together.

So start tuning and sharing guys!

 

[Slim Shady]

ITS HERE :thumbsup:To tired tonight, Maybe tomorrow, Still need a good definition file and will prob use the stock bin file to get a reference to start from.

 

[rainstate]

Most of the Bin files have different addresses for tables and scalars. That's why things look funny. If the bin is posted I could tell you the differences so they can be changed. Maybe post a disassemby of if for you guys , but that will take some time .

 

[thedrip]

So we need a definition file for every base image. I love you GM.

I've posted BPAA and BPDP on http://www.dripspeed.com/6.5/