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disc brake modification

If we are dealing with a rounded out pocket (need a picture if you can to show us what we are dealing with); get a grade 8 bolt & custom grind the head to fit the pocket, double nut the threaded portion and use a breaker bar/socket to drive out the "tool" you just fabricated, use plenty of PB blaster or other good penetrant on the fitting in the brake housing
 
I got it figured out. Eventhough I sprayed my pressure washer on it for 30 senconds it didn't do the trick. It looked like there was only 1/4" depth but I got in there w/ my screw driver to try and turn it and it still had about another 1/4" of dirt in there. After digging it out I was able to get my 3/8's in there enough to get it out.

Now I think I may have made a mistake. I put one of my ramps behind the passenger tire and backed it up for easy access to the plug. I then filled the diff. Is that a problem? Do both wheels need to be level to fill the diff? What will happen if I over fill it?

thanks!
 
I usually fill mine on level ground until oil flows back, since you are on ramps, fill it roll back to level ground, then pull the plug with a pan to catch any overflow that comes out, it will seek proper level, (since on a ramp it's probably underfilled anyway) you won't hurt anything for time to get it off the ramps to level ground.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Just as an FYI EGR brake now makes a rear drum to disc conversion for 2500 & 3500 as well, used to be kit for 1500 only http://www.egrbrakes.com/index-main.htm really helps with my stopping SSBCs twin piston up front and disc on rear.

SSBC front calipers also take the stock GM style pad FMSI # D-369
Click to expand...

Are the new calipers for front have increased stopping power from stock (i'm due for rotor/pads soon)

I heard that Drums have greater stopping power than disk, but every 4whl Disk truck i've driven (mainly F-450's, and 350's Tow trucks) Stop way better. I feel like I need more from my rear brakes, and drums never adjust automatically like they should.
 
I see the DRW conversion kit... would be very nice... I never learned how to do Drums, and don't really want to.

I did also see Larger Wheel cylinders for the rear Drums, Has anyone used these? How much greater do you think the rear stopping power will be?

Also, I notieced non-Parking breake kits, and the parking brake kits. Wiouldn't it be very dangerious not to have a parking break? Especially on steep slopes, you also have that hateful transmission CLUNK with the truck weight releasing off the parking pin...

1300 is a lot of money, maybe I should try the new wheel cylinders for 40 a piece and ride out the drums I have till they are garbage (I;ve never even taking them off to look at them since I've owned the truck...

I've put 25,000 miles on this truck, and all i've done to brakes was 1 set of pads (went with ceramic), and 1 rear brake line.
 
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I have twin piston up front and disc conversion in rear, but I'm hauling at times 18k and want all stopping power I can get, my fronts alone were easily 3x improvement over the stock, so maybe do twins up front, slotted rotors, HP pads, see if that is sufficient for you, if you want more stopping power then do the rears as well, IMO disc all way round is the way to go. Drums I removed were 50+# each at least or seem that way, a little less power to get rears rolling now
 
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Turbine Doc said:
Just as an FYI EGR brake now makes a rear drum to disc conversion for 2500 & 3500 as well, used to be kit for 1500 only http://www.egrbrakes.com/index-main.htm really helps with my stopping SSBCs twin piston up front and disc on rear.

SSBC front calipers also take the stock GM style pad FMSI # D-369
Click to expand...


Cool Thanks!! Time to start saving $1,000
They need to do the same for the front
 
nice! Wish they'd have been available a few years back when I went all through mine. New seals, drums, wheel cylinders and two pairs of shoes would have made a nice dent in whatever the conversion costs.

maybe next time....

however, my front calipers are in need of something. I think I have one hanging up and the rears are out of adjustment.
 
Chech that website out, theire were some suped up wheel cylinders, larger more pressure, more rear stopping power. Might be worth it for you.
 
ghitch75 said:
do you have the rear disk brake kit?....if so how do like it from the stock drums?...my ol' burb needs some better stoppin' power...:mad2:
Click to expand...

No, I don't. I think that's where I'm headed when I finally need new drums. I will tell you guys I saw a big increase in stopping with the slightly larger wheel cylinders and Hawk SUV/LT front brake pads.
 
Good info again TD! I will have to check out the EGR brake kits for the Burb as it stops very poorly.

... In contrast the 3500 will lock em up quick when needed but just keeps plowing forward as it weighs waaay too much. You have to be really careful in the rain with these beasties.
 
Keep an eye out, I'll repost some pics of my kit on the K1500 soon, I need new shoes, and am going with slotted rotors on front vs drilled, EGR likes slotted vs drilled so I'll give those a try.
 
Just as an FYI, EGR does not have uprated front calipers for the 2500/3500 series trucks. The dual piston caliper is only for the 1500 series trucks.

EGR did recommend slotted rotors and special pads to improve the stock front setup on the HD trucks.

For the rear of course the disc upgrade kit.

... I will be talking with them again tomorrow and plan something out for the Burb. I drove it tonight and did a "brake check", pathetic. The pedal went down farther than normal as well maybe indicating a master cylinder issue.

Thanks!
 
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