• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Decisions on engine options

dbrannon79 said:
iirc I was told the passenger side is a real bugger bear to pull off with studs and the engine still in the truck due to the HVAC box. you might need to remove the studs up and the rear of the engine.

I have also read that on the HX 35/40 turbos where they aren't very good trying to keep the boost psi below 15 and push extra power and better mileage combined, they are great for towing though. the GMx are very restrictive in the exhaust side. as I gather and learn more on the turbos that will fit these trucks and what each one does for what the driver wants to achieve, I want to look into something larger than the GMx but not as big as the HX35 so the exhaust isn't so restricted.

I have oftin thought about modifing the wastegate opening on a GMx so it would flow through easier since I have learned that as long as we keep our foot lighter on the pedal, less boost = better mileage and more boost = more power gain and possible destruction on the lower end (block cracking). but that is just in what I have read into. Of course me being the one who loves to tinker with stuff lol I have an old GM4 and a GM3 turbo to play with!!
Click to expand...
Take the GMx turbos and sell them to someone with a 2.0 four banger who can use them. IMO, a 12cm housing hx35 is too tight, and a 14 only slightly better (gearing and transmission are big factors here). I have 4.10s with an automatic, and when I can afford the right hx40 it will go on my truck.
 
SnowDrift said:
I glanced over this a time or two, but admit that I discounted it after seeing the author was doing the work outdoors under a tent. I just didn't take him serious. When doing searches for certain subjects, it kept popping up, so I decided to take a further look, then another, etc. It turns out that this guy seems to have really captured some details with his engine build. He made mention of Will and a few others, which I hold in high regard on the subject, so this got my attention. I did find where it had been linked before, but thought I would link here, as well.
www.65turbogarage.com

GM 6.5 Diesel Performance And Durability Tips For The Do-It-Yourselfer

You can get much more power AND long life out of your GM 6.5 diesel and you can do it in your own garage with our how-tos and videos here...
www.65turbogarage.com

At what point should head studs be considered? It sounds like an HX40 might be in my far future, simply for better mileage, but I'm not going after 20 psi boost, so is it something to consider or just put in new bolts and leave it alone? One major concern has always been whether or not the heads can come off without pulling the engine if that had to happen, if a guy uses studs on one of these.
Click to expand...
Ha! I love doing well as an underdog.
Believe me, I hated every minute of having to do the build in a damn tent but if we only worked in perfect conditions, a lot of us wouldn't get anything done. (and it wasn't just the tent, the build went into winter so the tent turned into an igloo with snow piling up 3' outside the walls and numb fingers and toes)
But, time has shown that conditions shouldn't hold anyone back as the build went well and it's still running very strong with parts from Leroy (couldn't link to him for some reason?), help from @Will L. , @n8in8or , @WarWagon (and many others here), and ceramic coatings from @Twisted Steel Performance, I expect it to last a very long time.

Unless I screw something else up myself.

BTW, I hope something in the article helped.
 
Last edited:
As I mentioned, your site was, indeed helpful. I've referred to it several times and part of why I linked he here is because that way, I know exactly where it is that I can go back and find it quickly if needed. Thanks for taking the time to do that.

I don't have quite the rundown some have done, but have been taking pictures so we remember where wires are, etc. The bed is full of parts. It's getting closer, but there's still a long way to go.
20220917_162034_resized (1).jpg
 
SnowDrift said:
As I mentioned, your site was, indeed helpful. I've referred to it several times and part of why I linked he here is because that way, I know exactly where it is that I can go back and find it quickly if needed. Thanks for taking the time to do that.

I don't have quite the rundown some have done, but have been taking pictures so we remember where wires are, etc. The bed is full of parts. It's getting closer, but there's still a long way to go.
View attachment 76846
Click to expand...
That's a helluva engine hoist you have there.
Now I'm completely ashamed of my tent.
 
The front end is sitting higher with the engine out. I'm eager to see what it looks like under the pan. I also found another rebuilder in Oregon and I don't even know how I got their information - perhaps from something in Hink's website. Couple older gentlemen that sounded like they knew their way around a 6.5 very well.
 
SnowDrift said:
The front end is sitting higher with the engine out. I'm eager to see what it looks like under the pan. I also found another rebuilder in Oregon and I don't even know how I got their information - perhaps from something in Hink's website. Couple older gentlemen that sounded like they knew their way around a 6.5 very well.
Click to expand...
Yes sir, if it's Ted King at Portland Engine Rebuilders, I was very surprised that he knew as much about the 6.5 as he did.
 
SnowDrift said:
yup, that's it. I was just going through your site and ran across the portion where you mention them and provide a link. They're out several months, but that doesn't matter much to me, since it isn't my daily driver.
Click to expand...
Nice. Really good guy too. And his head machinist helped me hand sand to fit @Twisted Steel Performance 's ceramic coatings on my main bearings, so they're willing to work hard too 'cause that stuff is hard as shit.
 
Would the 6.2 posted here be a direct bolt-in for me? It sounds like the heads are different on the H1 than trucks. I hadn't considered a 6.2 before, but maybe I should? This would have to work with the side mount turbo, as well. Is that the case with this engine?
 
I'm pretty sure you'll need a truck oil pan since according to your sig the truck is 4x4. The ad mentions needing an oil pan and different oil pump too. Not sure if a different rear main seal would be needed as well

If the engine was a centermount turbo then new heads would be needed, but it looks like the 6.2 in the ad will bolt up to a side mount just fine.
 
DieselAmateur said:
I'm pretty sure you'll need a truck oil pan since according to your sig the truck is 4x4. The ad mentions needing an oil pan and different oil pump too. Not sure if a different rear main seal would be needed as well

If the engine was a centermount turbo then new heads would be needed, but it looks like the 6.2 in the ad will bolt up to a side mount just fine.
Click to expand...
Can confirm. Oil pan needs to be changed from HMMWV to truck.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top