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Dead Injection Pump on '96 GMC K2500?

I know they were used on SBC engines on the aftermarket chrome covers back in the day. iirc the old Buick / Olds engines have a similar disign cover like our 6.5's with the 6 bolts or so.
 
Stuka T said:
How hard is swapping out the timing chain for a newb with just the basic mechanical skills? Even the injection pump swap has me doing a lot of woodshedding on Youtube and message forums.
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Once You get down to it, basically the same as any gas vehicle engine with the cam at mid block.
Timing chain and two sprockets.
Getting down to it takes a little study though. Coolant pump has some bolts thats sort of hidden and a couple of others too.
 
I suggest doing the ip job complete first. Then do the timing chain, waterpump, front seal, harmonic and pulley all as a second job.

reason is, if something goes goofy with reprogramming ip- you will be questioning: was it timing issue, damaged cps maybe? Etc.

If you had done one, once before- then yea at same is fine.

Anyone that is interested in Leroy’s “time keeper” timing gear set might call him soon.
They are in stock at the moment according to a couple guys on hummer forum that placed their orders.
And remember a ds4 kit will work on db2- but not the other way around.
 
jrsavoie said:
Does AutoZone still sell ACDelco 60G glow plugs.

I got good prices on them there, several times
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I don't know about vato-zone, but I ordered mine from advance. they have a deal where they can get the parts from the GM dealer here at a discount. they came out cheaper than me going to the dealer for them.

Just keep in mind on the 60g's they take longer to heat and work compared to the factory ones. I had to reprogram my ecm to ignite them for at least 8 seconds in 60 deg weather. colder and they need more time. of course my rig will refuse to start in 70+ deg weather without the glow plugs.
 
@Stuka T with replacing your IP. pull off the intake and remove the turbo off the truck. removing the turbo makes it much easier to get to the lines on the injectors plus the ability to address any return hose issues in there.

when you go to pull the IP. mark the position of the IP by scribbling a line on the IP and the timing cover in a common spot where you can fairly pinpoint where that mark would be on the new IP. then pull the oil fill tube from the front of the engine. through that rubber hole you can rotate the engine and see the three bolt heads holding gear to the IP. CAUTION.. use a socket with a magnet or stuffed paper or something where the socket will snugly hold the bolt and not allow it to drop down into the engine. remove all three bolts all the while stick something in the hole to keep the gear from falling. then after removing the lines from the IP and the three nuts holding it to the engine it should pull out of the hole.

I have never done the job myself, so I know I left some details out, others can chime in with a better way with all the steps. I know it has to be timed with the engine and timing chain too.

other things you will need access to is a scanner with the ability to set the TDC (top dead center) in the ecm. for OBD2 (96+) from what I have heard you can use a bluetooth scanner and your phone with the car code app. otherwise find someone with a GM tech 2 scanner. do not use a snap-on scanner, it does not read timing properly. for OBD1 (95 and older) you can use a usb to serial adapter ($10 on amazon) and software on your windows laptop called GMTDscan (paid version will set timing) or again a GM tech 2 scanner.

I'll let others chime in who have more experience and have done the job from start to finish.
 
Will L. said:
I suggest doing the ip job complete first. Then do the timing chain, waterpump, front seal, harmonic and pulley all as a second job.

reason is, if something goes goofy with reprogramming ip- you will be questioning: was it timing issue, damaged cps maybe? Etc.

If you had done one, once before- then yea at same is fine.

Anyone that is interested in Leroy’s “time keeper” timing gear set might call him soon.
They are in stock at the moment according to a couple guys on hummer forum that placed their orders.
And remember a ds4 kit will work on db2- but not the other way around.
Click to expand...

Second vote ^^^ this.

I have done this job several times and still hate it, but there are worse vehicles to do timing chains on.
 
You forgot the part of install db2 in its place! Haha (Stuka- I personally hate ds4)

On the injector lines- instructions say remove them all before removing ip. I know I am wacky, but I leave them all attached and remove the ip with them like a big spider. Reinstall them on the bench and snug the lines. Then once in place I give final torque to them all usually crying and whining about the bottom ones. Once they are all connected And everything else is back together- remove the old glow plugs. Let it do the mist out the glow holes thing, then bench test old plugs or just install the new set. NEVER FORGET ANTI SEIZE. Then she is ready to fire.

While ip is off, good time to add fuel pressure tap fitting at the ip and mount the gauge in the dash somewhere. Replace all the rubber fuel line with sae30r9 and new quality hose clamps. Add the clear ip return line.
 

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Truck is all back together. New ignition pump, new injectors, new glow plugs, new batteries, new starter, runs like a dream EXCEPT the glow plugs aren't working.

Put a brand new glow plug controller from Accurate Diesel on, and I'm getting nothing, no Wait To Start light. It's warm enough that I can start it here in Central California.

Will tear off the intake AGAIN tomorrow and put the old glow plug controller back on.

No issue with the timing. Slashed the timing cover at the top corner of the injection pump, new one lined up perfect, sounds and runs great. You CAN get lucky without having to get it on a scanner, if you match the pin right and set the new one in the same position.

I really appreciate all the advice I was given. The 6.5 starter is my least favorite I've ever swapped out. Really tight, really painful, lots of wrestling.
 
I do plan on doing the timing chain, water pump, front seal, harmonic balancer and pulley once I pay down some of the materials I just bought. I learned a LOT about my engine the past two weeks, and there are still more unknown hills to climb.

Without this forum I almost certainly would have made several mistakes and still be tinkering with it.
 
No inline fuses that I am aware of.
I dont remember if the GP controller has a relay that feeds it. I do know that, on My 2000 K3500 there is a big relay/fuse box attached to the left side inner fender. There are a couple of big high amp fuses inside of that box.
 
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