• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

DaHooooley update

Robyn,
I'm confused. I was looking at the pics and it looks like you got the low vol waterpump. Is this the truck you had the elec fan clutch on ? I was for some reason under the impression that it was a centerhub. what made you go with the low vol wp ? I say that cause I "supposedly" ave the hv wp and mine is center hub.
 
When you get that one done, how about coming east a few hours and overhauling mine? I'm afraid I've killed it. Luckily, I have about $3.
 
102*? You got lucky. We hit 106* today. It's 10 to 9pm and 95*. Too humid to try to water the lawn, in my book. :o)

Just let me know if and when. Even if it's to hold the beer. :o) Maybe I can bring out the Norinco 84s to play after. :o)

John
 
Aces

I built up the electric fan clutch on a HV pump
I have never installed it. The only issue was the ability to keep air flowing for the AC system.

There is not an easy way (that I have come up with) to install a trinary switch to engage the fan when the High side pressure is up to max allowable.

Slow vehicle speed needs air flow through the condenser.

I did not want to set it up so that the operator had to do it all. The chances of someone else in the family driiving the rig are too great. Has to be a no brainer.

The pump on the fresh engine is a standard volume pump with the single stat.

I am still mssing a few things to do the dual conversion. No biggy really to swap the pumps out later.

I just did not want to install the old used pump after it had sat dry for several months.
My luck is it would leak soon after startup.

The stock stuff with the new radiator will work fine for my usage of the rig for now.

I dont haul long distance with heavy loads, so it will be fine.

My 93 6.5 truck (back in 93) never got hot at all and I pulled with it a lot.



John

We will see what happens here. I will likely be working on the thing as soon as the heat goes down some.
Usually I work like the Froggy hops. Get an urge and do something.

I got the grill off yesterday and removed the oil cooler so I can flush out the last of the contamination from the old engine. "nasty slop" that stuff was.

Best

MGW
 
I bought a fresh set of cooler lines a while back along with the new quick connects for the block. The original lines were leaking at the crimps and making a mess. AAAAARRRRRGG

Filled the cooler up again with some Gasoline (Only real good use for the stuff)

Will squirt some engine cleaner in it and flush with water to get the last of the crap out.

I really would have liked a set of stainless braided lines with JIC fittings and a fresh new cooler.

Next time maybe. The new set of factory lines should make at least another 5 years or so (I hope)

Later troops

MGW
 
The factory quick connects will only fail if not properly seated.

The trilobe clip snaps in behind the tapered end on the hose and is secure.
The issue usually comes when someone has removed them and tried to reinstall the clip after the lines are already in.

The clip must be seated correctly into the 3 slots in the fitting. Then the tapered end of the hose fitting is slid in until the clip snaps in place.

No way in Hell can this fail if installed correctly.

These are metal fittings and a metal clip. The pressure to force the thing out would blow the hose first.


best
MGW
 
Hi all

Got out early this morning and got the oil cooler lines ripped out of the rig and then moved on to working on the wiring harness.

Got cozy in the engine bay on my Butt and started looking things over.

All in all not too bad. Found a few chaffed places in the wires that feed the main engine harness (injection pump and other stuff on the under manifold harness.

Took a few minutes and carefully taped up the little bare spots there and then moved on to the Glow plug harness on the right side.

Got all the melted wrinkle loom off and replaced the two end wires for the #2 and 8 glow plugs as the plug ends were toast.

Replaced about 6 inches of the line that controls the starter. Too crispy :eek:

Got a short piece of the large loom to recover the area where the little plastic "T" fitting is in the harness. This area too was a bit tacky.

The truck had seen a small underhood fire before I got the rig.
Seemed that it was confined to the turbo side.

Still need to recover the wires the feed the front axle shift unit and then fastenm the glow harness back down onto the frame.

Should get this all wrapped up early tomorrow morning.

Just a buttload easier while the engine is out to sit in there and check this stuff over.

All considered it looks quite serviceable.

Just hate hashed up wiring. Thiis the sort of crap that will leave one stranded
out along the road side some dark and nasty night.

Once I am done with this stuff the engine can go back in.

The oil cooler lines on this rig have a lovely little clamp that bolts to the LH engine mount (part that fastens to the engine. The lines then swing under the core support and up to the cooler they go.

The original lines were leaking a bit and making a mess in there too.

Great time to fix all this little stuff.

Been soaking the cooler and will flush it once more with GUNK and then hot water to flush all the crap left over from the failure.

I am shall we say, Pleased with what its looking like.

Wil be nice to have the old girl back.

I am toying with the idea of adding a set of Stacks once thing are back up running well again.

Maybe a pair of 6 inchers .
I am thinking of using a 6 inch rectangle tube with a 3/16 wall and weld some feet onto it to mount to the floor of the bed. A pair of stubs welded to the tube to allow the stacks to slip in and be fastened with the preformed band clamps like we use on the big rigs. :D

At any rate it ought to be LOUD.

Although with the "Echo" chamber and a couple baffles it may be fine.

Later troops


MGW
 
Missy Good Wench said:
Hi all

All in all not too bad. Found a few chaffed places in the wires that feed the main engine harness (injection pump and other stuff on the under manifold harness.

Just hate hashed up wiring. Thiis the sort of crap that will leave one stranded
out along the road side some dark and nasty night.
Click to expand...

Ya damn skippy...That is excatly where mine chaffed and it was the only time my truck left me on the side of the road. Started blowing the ESO fuse for no reason. HArness looked pretty nasty I had to remove it fom the truck wash it down and then repair it. I probably should have changed it for the time it took to clean and repair it but I needed the truck at the time.
 
Missy Good Wench said:
The factory quick connects will only fail if not properly seated.

The trilobe clip snaps in behind the tapered end on the hose and is secure.
The issue usually comes when someone has removed them and tried to reinstall the clip after the lines are already in.

The clip must be seated correctly into the 3 slots in the fitting. Then the tapered end of the hose fitting is slid in until the clip snaps in place.

No way in Hell can this fail if installed correctly.

These are metal fittings and a metal clip. The pressure to force the thing out would blow the hose first.

best
MGW
Click to expand...

Missy,I dont agree on the clips only failing when install is wrong.

I have had 2 occasions sofar that the clips had been rattling in the grooves till the point that they where worn so paper thin on the contact points that they just broke when i flipped them out. These where all high milers though.
On a other one only half the clip was still there cause it was positioned horizontal on top and had jammed in place when the bottom half fell out and the fitting cocked out a wee bit.The remaing piece was also worn thin at the break point.

One would say the pressure on the lines will keep things locked up,but seems like that dont always works that way. I could explain that too.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I will tend to agree on the high mile part.

Also possibly areas that use salt possibly can see corrosion from the salt spray getting in there.

I have torn down several really high milers here and never seen one that the clips were even worn.

If the brackets are all in place to keep the hoses tight and free of movement this helps too with things.

Definately the braided lines and JIC fitting are a far and away better setup.

MGW
 
Here is another nasty place that will ruin your wiring in a hurry.
Really puzzles me that GM would leave all the flashing on the engine where they lay a bunch of wires.

I ground this stuff off yesterday and then snapped the pix before a shot the yellow back on.


This is right above the block flange that the starter bolts too.
The wiring the feeds the RH glow plugs, the starter solenoid and the front end lock setup all run right through here.
Also on the 92-93-94 trucks the main power wire from the RH battery snakes up past the starter and then up around the block and to the junction block.

I recommend rerouting the main power feed on the older trucks up and under the airfilter and around and then to the junction block.
Far better and much easier to get to, especially if your replacing this stuff with the engine and such still in the chassis.

The flashing that was on my block was like a SAW
Nasty.


MGW
 

Attachments

  • Block flashing.JPG
    Block flashing.JPG
    23.8 KB · Views: 52
Last edited:
I agree on the wire mess over the starter,one more of GM's shortcuts to save money.

GM smarted up somewhat on the later trucks by routing the glow feed under the intake to the front pass side.

PS: take a close look at these oil line clips,i bet you'll find flat spots,unless your fittings where bone dry and tight in the bore.
 
If one wants to take the time, the glow feed as well as the other wiring from down under could be rerouted further along the firewall and down over the inner fender and then branched out to serve the RH glows, the starter and the front differential control.

The amount of extra wire required to do this is not much $$$ wise on an individual basis but over the Mega numbers of rigs that GM built the cost is great.

The placement of the wires is not all that bad as long as one pays attention to detail and makes sure that there are no ragged edges or other wire gobbling things.

As long as the heat shields are replaced correctly it all seems to work pretty well.

Another reason things are the way they are is the sequence in which this stuff goes together.

The engine/tranny and Tcase are installed in the chassis with all the attendant wiring all installed.

Next the body is lowered onto the chassis and everything is plugged in to the body harness.

Revamping the wiring to make it better over the long haul would make the assembly at the factory level a lot more difficult.

Oh well, such is life

I looked my fittings over well. There was some light wear on the clips but nothing frantic.

Possibly they have been replaced too at some time ??????

I would love to have replaced mine with a whole new cooler and braided lines but the $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ just got way out past reason.

There is never a handy time to do a rebuild and this one for me was at a particularly tight time $$$ wise.

At least it was in the good weather.


MGW
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top