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cucv needs a flatbed

I have a lighter spring with this stuff that goes from the pedal to the mount, this big one is so stiff it would fold that whole mount over if I tried to put it there.
 
Didnt make a whole lot of visual progress today, but i got a new toy- A thumbwheel remote control for my miller synchrowave 250.

Now I can tig laying under a vehicle or kneeling inside one or wherever and not have to fight with trying to use the foot pedal.

they are nice for some things but most of the time i hate thumb wheels they are a difficult to use sometimes. i would rather just set the amprage and use the lift arcstart and not even use a pedal if the situation arises. but if i have my choice i would use the pedal much more controll and can make better welds
 
I just couldnt bring myself to install a wimpy old cast aluminum bellhousing in this truck, I see it being a real weak link So- --

Ups guy dropped this off today, ordered yesterday from Day Motorsports- they are a circle track parts shop in tyler tx.

Weighs almost 33 lbs, nice and stout. It is for a muncie chevy car trans 4.62 dia hole.

I will be using my mill to bore out the center hole to fit the 5.125 in diameter sm465 trans front register, also Im pretty sure that I have to move the fork pivot threaded insert over a little bit. Will be using my syncrowave 250 for that job.

This bell was $200 so plus shipping and tax was $230. Lakewood only makes one bellhousing that fits the sm465 and it is $470 before shipping from Summit. So I dont mind doing the mods to save about $250.
 

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I will have to either reposition that rt rear upper shock mount or I might cut out that rear crossmember and move the tank rearward since I am extending the frame back about 8 inches and adding a new rear crossmember.
 
Alright my friend has a 1940 Kearney and Trecker #4 mill that weighs 12K lbs, and he milled out the bellhousing center hole to 5.125 to fit the SM465 transmission.

I will check the bell alignment and if needed I will use offset dowel pins on the engine.
 

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Cut out some of the 3/16 plates for the frame boxing today, here is one section test fitted.

Also ripped out all the fuel lines and brake lines out of the rt frame rail.

Im repositioning the brake proportioning valve from the spot from hell up to next to the master cylinder and replacing every brake hard line and flex line on the truck.
 

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Finished the bellhousing, made up a mount point for the Z bar pivot ball with a piece of steel tubing and a 1/2 -13 nut.

Also moved and rewelded the nut for the clutch fork pivot ball.
 

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Checked the bellhousing alignment today, it is out 4 1/2 thousanths which is half of the 9 thou i registered on the dial indicator.



You split the difference in half between the high and low opposite readings as the dial indicator is not exactly centered .



Normally accepted limit is .005 as maximum out of concentricity and mine is .0045 and im going to run with that. This is a low rpm diesel and should be fine. If it was a 7k rpm race motor you would probably want it a little better.



Had to cut a big chunk out to clear the starter.



Also had to clearance the upper inside slightly for the starter ring on the flywheel.



Still have to make a flat dust shield for the lower front of the bell and drill the bell for it.



So yeah it was a lot of work to use this bell, but it should be bomb proof.
 

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Working on the frame today, have the frame plate sections behind the front spring shackles tacked in.
 

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Installed the pilot bushing, flywheel and clutch- ( yes I used the alignment tool) . Used ARP pressure plate bolts with red locktite on them as well as the flywheel bolts.

I can tell this is so thrilling you all are speechless :D
 

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