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Crossover donut gasket.

L

Lawdawg#1

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Hello everyone! I ordered crossover donut gaskets for my 99 suburban. The old gaskets are flat on the bottom and have a wire mesh inside. All the gaskets I look at on line and in the store have a metal ring inside.
 

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Ok I get how they work now but I’m afraid to try and pull them out. might make more of a mess then just leaving them. Looking at them out of the truck I would have never guessed they were separated.
 
I went through the same thing a week or so ago before coating my manifolds. The sleeve was still in them, but I knew they were not permanent. I used a chisel and knocked off the donut, but the sleeve remained. Logically, it only made sense that it had to come out because the manifolds are cast and the sleeve is not
 
SnowDrift said:
I went through the same thing a week or so ago before coating my manifolds. The sleeve was still in them, but I knew they were not permanent. I used a chisel and knocked off the donut, but the sleeve remained. Logically, it only made sense that it had to come out because the manifolds are cast and the sleeve is not
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This right here SnowDrift, and your previous post #4.

LawDawg#1
Years ago I was changing out things every couple of years. With the frequent changes I was doing, even after a short a time, sometimes it would come out in one piece. Sometimes not.

The first time, like you, was a learning experience.
I got the old donut off with I don’t remember what (probably a hammer and HD putty knife or screw driver), the sleeve stayed behind. Looked to me like it belonged there after 150k miles. Call it corrosion, low temp weld, heat cycles or all the above. Regardless, the old ring on the new donut was ‘getting in the way’ of reassembling things. Ruined a donut (which is why I got a spare still laying around). After asking the same questions on the forum, I got it out after breaking the ‘seal’ between manifold and the ring with a screwdriver and hammer. Once the seal was broke, it was obvious it wasn’t part of the manifold and pliers got it out after that.

Hope these photos help you out.

New gasket/donut
IMG_7418.jpeg

I just checked a manifold on the shelf, old donut still in place from strip yard.
IMG_7417.jpeg

Just for fun this morning, I tried removing it with putty knife and mallet and, as expected, the sleeve remained behind. Looks like it belongs there though.
IMG_7419.jpeg

Gave it a couple of whangs with mallet and chisel on two sides to break the corrosion bond
IMG_7421.jpeg

Pried it out with small screw driver…easy peeasy.
IMG_7423.jpeg

Yes, for the observant out there, the next challenge will be to get that sheared off / rusted in bolt out. Done that before too. Last time it involved Helicoil.
 
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Wow thanks for the replies everyone! Much appreciated. I will use an air chisel to try and hammer it out. The pictures really helped because I thought it slipped into a channel of some sort. I can cave it in on itself and get it out with channel locks or vise grips. Thanks again!
 
Lawdawg#1 said:
Wow thanks for the replies everyone! Much appreciated. I will use an air chisel to try and hammer it out. The pictures really helped because I thought it slipped into a channel of some sort. I can cave it in on itself and get it out with channel locks or vise grips. Thanks again!
Click to expand...
Already did two broken bolts. Drilling them out and tapping threads. Used studs instead of bolts.
 
I got lucky with the broken bolts on mine. I got them on the first attempt. ground them flat with the manifold and then used a center punch marking the bolt and drilled though with a small bit. went slightly larger and larger and ended with a 3/8" bit. it left just enough meat to run the metric tap into the threads cleaning them out and were still salvageable to re-use without needing to stud them or use a nut on the back side.

be sure to use some extreme heat anti-seize going back in. not sure where to buy it, but at work they keep an anti-seize that is resistant up to 1800 or so degrees. working in a steel mill they use that stuff on everything!!
 
dbrannon79 said:
I got lucky with the broken bolts on mine. I got them on the first attempt. ground them flat with the manifold and then used a center punch marking the bolt and drilled though with a small bit. went slightly larger and larger and ended with a 3/8" bit. it left just enough meat to run the metric tap into the threads cleaning them out and were still salvageable to re-use without needing to stud them or use a nut on the back side.

be sure to use some extreme heat anti-seize going back in. not sure where to buy it, but at work they keep an anti-seize that is resistant up to 1800 or so degrees. working in a steel mill they use that stuff on everything!!
Click to expand...
I just drilled them out and used bolts in place of studs, which has worked for many years.
 
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