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coolant loss on p/s. f/p or ????

and my injector socket lets me install the caps and the clamps, before installing the injector.

Thats a nice feature.

I had to make my own socket (can't remember why) I think because I only had a thick wall deep socket and the thin chrome one was to short, so I cut it in half and welded it to a deeper socket.
 
I used a 1/2 impact socket w/no mods to it and it worked fine. Matter of fact I thought it would take a whole day to do the job and it only took 3 1/2 hrs. God must love me plus all the help I get here, with all the knowledge here I would tackle anything on this truck.I didn't run into any probs at all. Thanks guys It would have taken me forever by trial and error
 
By p/s in the fuel were you referring to power steering or power service.

Power service doesnt do enough for lubricity. TCW3 (ashless) 2-stroke oil is specifically designed to mix with fuel to lubricate engine parts and combust with the fuel. Other oils do the trick, but may also contain a lot of detergents and what not that dont burn as well or as clean. I have used transmision fluid before, it worked fine. Whichever one you can get the cheapest is probably the best bet. When Autozone or Oreilley have 99 cent oil deals maybe the generic ND SAE30 is included. Walmart sells 2-stroke by the gallon. Lubricity testing showed 2-stroke oil to do very well, some used 15W-40 motor oil used didnt do anything. If the test were repeated with tranny fluid and some new SAE30 would be great.
 
That is at 9/10 lbs. It would flash to 16/18 lbs. at 2500 and come down to 10/12 as rpm climbs to 3/3200. It only stays above 10/12 if I stay at 1/4 app, 1/2 app or more and boost drops to 10. Also ran w/o air filter and no change in egt. I'll back off the boost and wait till I can get 4in. exh. Also While at the inj. shop I was looking at their core turbos, they had a pile of them, and I saw a gm4 and they said I could have it for 50.00. It's not locked up just a little wobbly in the bearing. Is it worth it? Also he said p/s or tans fluid in the fuel instead of 30 wt. He said the big rigs use P/s fluid and more than double the life of their pumps. ?????

So you have MORE boost at LESS throttle position?

Nice work BTW getting EGT's down! That engine is loving you right now!

Your numbers now seem pretty good if they can maintain in tow that way.
 
Yes, and it doesn't make sense to me either. My fingers are crossed, and I might hook up and do a test run and see where it's at. I won't know for sure till I hit fancy gap, But if it stays real cool then even if I have to take it easy up the hill maybe I can hold 60 mph and I guess I can live with that,until I can afford 4/5 in. exh and w/m.
 
What about the tune? IF its fuel table isn't proportional, perhaps its outputting more fuel at 1/2 throttle, which was why he was EGT'ing so high and have more boost at less APP?

Rob, does your fuel pressure drop more at max boost, then gain a little back as you go deeper into WOT?
 
It stays steady between 1 to 2 lbs, wot. 3/4 at 1/2 and 5/6lbs idle/cruise. I HAVE FACED TOUGHER INTERROGATIONS THAN THAT. Frito lay introduced a new low fat high performance chip last month, with no preservatives. Very fresh and tasty!!!
 
I prefer the vaccum actuator, because it can be controlled, and outperform a spring. It anticipates fuel changes rather than react to them and you can set it up to be nothing to 20psi if you want it. But once you have a manual setup I dont know if its worth going back to the vacuum one. Unless you like getting the most economy and performance from it, and thats worth $150 in parts that might break later. Although you have to have the right tuning too.

I have what seems like a good spring, although it is not a real tight one. I can hit 20psi, sustain 15+ and when cruising its 2-4psi from 50-75mph. However when truck gets warm it will blow smoke because the spring gives where vacuum would have kept it closed and the vacuum controller worked fine for me except brittle lines that can be replaced with flexible ones.
 
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