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coolant loss on p/s. f/p or ????

Well I tested the f/p and avgs. 5/6 at idle /cruise. Never went below 1 psi avged 2/3 at wot. on the drain pipe. Called a few diesel shops in the area and found one that I would do buis. with. He will sell me new inj./not rebuilt.they are bosch and will set pop to 2250 for 350.00 out the door. I could buy marine for 480.00. I will bring him a couple off the d/s to test,he said he'd do it for free. But I'm guessing that if you have to remove the p/s manifold to change inj. than mine are the originals because man/has factory seal/no gaskets and are going to need replacing.
 
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No just remove the wheel well and tire from the p/s and you can easily change the injectors on p/s. No need to pull the manifold (thank god)....

I assume this price is not installed?

That price seems super cheap, at 43 bux a piece for new and balanced injectors. Its very tough to buy new injectors for 43 bux a piece. Make sure he's not just buying a cheap set of ebay and selling you a song and dance (lying) about balancing them. I trust nobody. Pretend like you are super interested, and would love to see him set them!

Even if replacing the manifolds most use/recommend red high temp RTV, just as GM did at the factory. No gasket.
 
That price is not installed but he said he would throw in the return lines gaskets and everything to install! I already did that homework matt. Thanks for looking out for me. He will let me watch him set the pop/when I bring him the old ones. He said it would take about 45 min. He had a 6.5 burb that he totaled and misses alot,we talked on the phone 4 45 min. and I think he's on the up /up. He asked why so high on the pop and I told that I wanted them to fall into spec and was impressed with all the knoweledge I had of the 6.5 and potential it has as well as problems. I want to thank everyone on this board for taking the time to educate me on this topic. With all that we talked about he thought that I was a 6.5 tech. with years of exp. The kudos go to everyone here, to whom without I would be clueless. Thanks to all /for all.
 
Thats a really good deal for retail injectors plus labor to reset them at the shop. Sounds like a real good guy.

I would stick with the standard injectors for best economy and reliability.

You dont have to remove the manifold to change the injectors. Some people manage to do it without removing the turbo, just have to get the downpipe out of the way. There is no better time to put new Bosch Duraterm Glow Plugs in, if you have the dough. Obviously with summer you wont need them at their best for a while.

Keep on putting 1/2 quart of TCW3 2-stroke in on each fuel fillup. If youre close to empty then a little more.
 
If you remove the P/S Wheel well liner you do not need to touch the downpipe to change any injectors. No turbo removal, no manifold removal, no downpipe removal. Just 10 or so 13mm bolts holding the wheel well in. And of course the tire.
 
I'm just like you, learned from these guys here, and just try to pay it forward.

I used the OTC Injector Socket thin walled Deep 3/8th drive socket with hex for a wrench on the back. I think that made things alot easier.

Grab a few cans of black rustoleum while you have that fender out! You should start spraying PB Blaster on stuff now.

Also antisieze the injectors on the re-install.
 
About the return line kit: What do you guys think about the caps in the kit? I think they suck! Everytime Ive used them they last about 5000 miles then crack and leak badly. Just happened again 2 days ago. I cant remember why I installed the cap on it. I usually cut a piece of the hose insert a screw into it and use it for a cap. Never had a problem with them like that.
 
I guess thats a good way to tell if the injectors have been changed out in the last 5 years or so. Most likely would have used the push on return lines.

Maybe the shop can sell them to you cheap too, makes it easier rather than dealing with the little clips and old lines could break trying to get them off.

The caps on mine have been fine for about 15000 miles, almost 2 years, but my engine never gets hot or real cold.
 
No problems with the caps, but my kit had clamps on the caps, and my injector socket lets me install the caps and the clamps, before installing the injector.

I have also used the factory returns without clamps and they didn't leak either. However I did replace them with the injectors. I've never tried a clampless cap.
 
Well , went to the the inj. shop and watched them test my inj.s and Half of them were leaking and none were close to pop press. Installed the new ones and the egts came down a little, about 2/300* It still goes up fast but stays around 9/1000* 3/4 or , 1,100 at wot sustained, had to back out I was over a 100 at that point. This truck is my mt. everest, and I'll climb that b*&^% if it kills me. Atleast I'm heading in the right direction. 200* less on egts and I'll be a happy man. I would like to get them in the 8/900 range under a load, sustained.
 
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Thats some good work. I'm loving that my network at work stopped blocking this site.

The 4" exhaust with high flow muffler should get you down another 100*, a better intake may drop it a little. Both of which can also add fuel efficiency with the throttle response.

A little less boost will lower EGTs, so keeping the boost around 9-10psi under sustained load is probably a good idea. Thats because the less backpressure between the turbo and engine the faster the exhaust will be moving and cooler coming out of the cylinder. The GM4 does start getting noticeably less efficient. At 9 psi boost it may only need 12 psi engine backpressure (75% efficient), but at 11psi boost it would need 16psi engine backpressure to sustain it (69% efficient). And at 6psi it may only need 7psi backpressure (85% efficient).

Less boost means less air to make combustion, but when turbo begins to get less efficient it also transfers more heat to the intake, which makes the intake air less dense and less efficient, and it takes more work away for the engine to push the exhaust out at higher backpressures. So somewhere 9-10psi should be good under sustained loads where EGTs will be a problem. Any other time boost her up to 15psi :)
 
That is at 9/10 lbs. It would flash to 16/18 lbs. at 2500 and come down to 10/12 as rpm climbs to 3/3200. It only stays above 10/12 if I stay at 1/4 app, 1/2 app or more and boost drops to 10. Also ran w/o air filter and no change in egt. I'll back off the boost and wait till I can get 4in. exh. Also While at the inj. shop I was looking at their core turbos, they had a pile of them, and I saw a gm4 and they said I could have it for 50.00. It's not locked up just a little wobbly in the bearing. Is it worth it? Also he said p/s or tans fluid in the fuel instead of 30 wt. He said the big rigs use P/s fluid and more than double the life of their pumps. ?????
 
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