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Considering selling my K2500

OK, never saw one but suspected that is how they worked. and the integral setup cannot be used on an older bellhousing correct ?
 
OK to take it a step further, a Dodge bellhousing and whatever slave they use would bolt up to a 95+ but not a <94 ? This may be of interest to anyone contemplating a Cummins swap.
 
Park it and fix it when you have funds. You won't get anything car-wise without issues for the sale price of the truck.
 
I never feel comfortable posting questions concerning my transmission or anything non-engine related to the 6.5TD forum, but I'm definitely lovin' the response! Sorry I've taken so long to reply. And, I will take the transmission/clutch out and try to fix it. Also, I'd love to go all mechanical with the engine. I'd also love to get an external slave cylinder, but I don't think that's going to happen. (but, if you know how I can do that, I'd love suggestions/recommendations!)

If I went with a DB2, I still need the PMD, don't I? And I got the extension with a PMD from a dealer on here. Um...Any recommendations on where I could/should get a DB2?

Now for my tranny parts: NAPA Clutch Master Cylinder (350088), Slave Cylinder (360058) (both NAPA parts replaced 11/12/10), Perfection Clutch Set 15330041 from Advance Auto (replaced 7/23/2010) (I know, I know - but I had ordered a perfection clutch set off of rock auto, but previous owner had switched the flywheel so I had to get another one and it was the same brand and I was on a time constraint...)

I'm considering on getting a Fort Wayne Clutch. Supposed they press their parts with South Bend Clutch parts. And supposedly they are good Clutch kits. (??)
 
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I tried looking up the part numbers that you listed and didn't find anything matching them from either Napa or Advance.
 
tazz said:
I tried looking up the part numbers that you listed and didn't find anything matching them from either Napa or Advance.
Click to expand...

That's odd, because I got them straight off the receipt. Maybe they were so junk they don't offer them anymore, haha.
 
Bobbies write may confuse you a bit as he goes into tech stuff about using the TCm. None of that is a concern to you. All you need is a DB2 2831-4911 , Inj lines and a accelerator pedal assembly from the junky for either a db equipped truck or a gasser. It's very easy to convert. Just change the IP and lines. Use the PMD for target practice. That is about all they are good for. Don't get me wrong, Bobbie guide is good but you don't need the tranny info. A MT truck is so easy to convert, It's almost insane not to unless you are looking for all out max performance. The DS4 does deliver more fuel and power, I won't BS you but the reliability of a DB2 can't be beat. You could even save money and use a DB2 2829. Those are a dime a dozen. Just turn it up. Most won't know the difference anyway. The 2831 is a bit more pricey as it's coveted. A reman 2831 will run a bout 5-600$. You can get a reman 2829 for less than 300$.
 
Acesneights1 said:
OK to take it a step further, a Dodge bellhousing and whatever slave they use would bolt up to a 95+ but not a <94 ? This may be of interest to anyone contemplating a Cummins swap.
Click to expand...

96+ and 92-95 are the splits. I would say yes, a 96+ would cummins swap easier.

treegump said:
I never feel comfortable posting questions concerning my transmission or anything non-engine related to the 6.5TD forum, but I'm definitely lovin' the response! Sorry I've taken so long to reply. And, I will take the transmission/clutch out and try to fix it. Also, I'd love to go all mechanical with the engine. I'd also love to get an external slave cylinder, but I don't think that's going to happen. (but, if you know how I can do that, I'd love suggestions/recommendations!)

If I went with a DB2, I still need the PMD, don't I? And I got the extension with a PMD from a dealer on here. Um...Any recommendations on where I could/should get a DB2?

Now for my tranny parts: NAPA Clutch Master Cylinder (350088), Slave Cylinder (360058) (both NAPA parts replaced 11/12/10), Perfection Clutch Set 15330041 from Advance Auto (replaced 7/23/2010) (I know, I know - but I had ordered a perfection clutch set off of rock auto, but previous owner had switched the flywheel so I had to get another one and it was the same brand and I was on a time constraint...)

I'm considering on getting a Fort Wayne Clutch. Supposed they press their parts with South Bend Clutch parts. And supposedly they are good Clutch kits. (??)
Click to expand...
to do it right, you have to get a 92-95 transmission, bellhousing, master, hyd. line, and slave. I think that is about it.
 
GM Guy said:

to do it right, you have to get a 92-95 transmission, bellhousing, master, hyd. line, and slave. I think that is about it.
Click to expand...

Well, I guess I better just stick with trying to fix what I've got than, haha.

Perfection Clutch Set from Advance Auto Parts: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_New-Clutch-Set-Perfection-Clutch_15330041-P_244_R%7CGRP60006_1303333869___

Part Number 360058, Slave Cylinder: http://www.dmauto.com/web/dmauto/Catalog/NAPA_ECAT/mfg/NNC/360058/

And thanks for the info on the IP.
 
I came across this from Centerforce, it's one of there inserts to make sure that you install the throwout bearing correctly http://www.centerforce.com/mediafiles/I93GM001.pdf and my other question is, why have you replaced the master and slave cylinder three times? The p/n that you listed for the clutch is of the single mass type, are you sure that you have a single mass flywheel in there? A duel mass is easy to spot, it has a bunch of springs on the engine side and a single mass is just a solid flywheel.
 
I've changed the master because the first was changed because I was changing everything else, than the "new" one had a bad fitting at the slave cylinder, and the second "new" one was leaking at the upper hose (stealership part), and the third one is in it now, but has a rather bad fit...

The slave cylinder was also swapped along with the throwout bearing since the clutch was being replaced anyways. Than the slave was replaced again because of the fitting, and then replaced again because it was leaking...and now has yet another one it it.

And, yep, my flywheel is a solid flywheel. I've had 3 chances to look at it, haha. Or...maybe 4...I've dropped my tranny so many times since I first changed the clutch, I'm getting rather tired of it.
 
So I guess you should be able to pull that tranny out like a nascar pit crew now, in record time. At this point I'm thinking it might be air bound or another bad master. When the clutch catches where does it catch, top or bottom?
 
Well, I don't know about record time, haha. It's still a pita to take apart... The clutch doesn't disengage at all... The pedal has pressure from top to bottom, and the fluid is fine in the master, and I'm leaking none. When I push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor, I still can't shift into a gear, whether I pump or not... And if I start in a gear, I have a difficult time pulling it out of gear.
 
you should fill the master cyl up, crack the bleeder on the slave and walk away for 5 min, come back see if any fluid is dripping if not walk away for 20 min or more and just keep checking on it. Or get a buddy to help you bleed the air out (if there is any)
 
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