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CDR routing options

X5 . . . And what is the source / name / part number of that thing?

Looks like it is basically an open can where the steel wool allows the oil vapor to condense and drop back into the engine, correct?
 
3500GMC said:
All this venting going on, thought I'd share my vent. ($.02)

Keep the oil, lose the pressure is the goal. If one could improve the oil control, the OE setup isn't all bad.

A little vacuum on the crankcase won't hurt a thing. One could argue that it keep oil leaks away- but so does Ultra Black RTV.

What you DO NOT want is any kind of pressure in the crankcase. Pressure = leaks for sure. (and usually more blowby due to the unseating of the rings)

A free flowing vent that keeps your oil where it should be will suffice.

Personally, I do not want my engine breathing it's own trash.
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View attachment 38845View attachment 38846View attachment 38847View attachment 38848View attachment 38849View attachment 38850
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Looks familiar, but from another purpose.....
 
NVW said:
One comes from the cdr, the other goes pre turbo inlet.
Click to expand...

Seeing as the large port looks like it is sitting where the CDR normally goes, and the two smaller lines (coming off the barbed fittings) are routing toward the driver's side, am having a small challenge with that math . . .
 
It's just a vent. They're sold as 'PCV catch cans' in the import tuner market. I gave it the Scotch Brite baffle and made a fitting for the bottom. The two top barbs would normally be an IN and OUT, but with the added fitting on the bottom, the two top barbs bacome the OUTS. The can comes with brackets which I did not use since it fits nicely atop the valve cover. Basically it's an extension of the baffle that is already in the right side valve cover. The two vinyl hoses route to the driver side pointing to the road to stay away from the Hot Side. Don't want any chance melted plastic and oil on the exhaust.

Pretty much it.. My engine has a little oil mist blowby when it works hard but not too bad. No oil leaks. I think the key is giving the oil mist enough time and surface area to condense back into liquid..which with a can such as this setting right on the valve cover, makes it real easy to keep the oil where it belongs.

Pretty cheap fix to nagging CDR problem. A 'tight' engine would benefit from this setup as well. Mine falls between the two extremes of wear and tear (blowby)..
 
Nice, the two out were throwing me off. Normally a Provent returns one to engine and one to atmosphere.
 
Burning oil said:
Nice, the two out were throwing me off. Normally a Provent returns one to engine and one to atmosphere.
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Provent can be routed to intake still iirc.

I'd say on the one pictured, the bottom is oil return, one top from valve cover and other to atmosphere or intake.

Edit: Nvm, I didn't read. That's how I would do it though lol.
Source Unknown
 
Olddieselguy said:
Thank you Will L.



Before you go calling anybody retarded think about it first WarWagon. In a perfect world A CDR might be a great thing but why is it that RIGHT after i got back and even a year after that trip i still leak oil. BTW my intake and CDR routing is all factory setup. And this is not a gas 4.3L, its a diesel with COMPRESSION IGNITION meaning that it has 400 PSI compression, not some wimpy 150 psi. Oh and on the 4.3's the TBI bolts loosen and the gasket shrinks causing a vacuum leak making the PCV work incorrectly.

I have driven this truck for 8 years and the day after i got in a hurry and all of a sudden it starts to leak. Diagnose that one mister smarty pants!

In fact i have never considered my engine to be worn out. Still has great power, starts great in the cold and only uses about a quart of oil every 1500 miles. Pretty good for a red 1982 6.2L engine that has never been overhauled. In the early 90's my older brother put on a banks turbo system on his 6.2 and right after the rear main started to leak. After pulling the oil pan off 4 different times to fix the rear main leak we took off the CDR valve and routed the crankcase gasses into the intake before the turbo. GUESS WHAT THE OIL LEAKS STOPPED!!!!

Since you are the diesel god do i need to have you fix my truck?
Click to expand...

Put a plugged air filter back in and see if your oil leak goes away. You do not appear to be making this connection or I am not being clear. The CDR drawing a extreme vacuum with a plugged filter is enough to suck air through the seal(s) rather than let oil leak out. The 6.2/6.5 CDR's don't limit the vacuum very well. So a plugged air filter puts extra vacuum on the crankcase. Outside air sucked in through a seal puts a lot of dirt on the seal wear surfaces and sucks the oil away from the seal. The plugged air filter could have ruined the seal from lack of lubrication, dust, or both.

The PCV system on a gas engine also puts a slight crankcase vacuum just like the diesel Crankcase Depression Regulator, CDR. I deal with weird non-normal failures a lot. So how a TBI gasket normally fails is really irrelevant when the TBI PCV passage is plugged up solid with coke. (Hell the gasket was probably 'normally' bad anyway.) What is relevant is the slight vacuum from the PCV system stopped a rear main oil leak after chipping out the 250K mile build up of coke plugging the TBI passage.

Now overlooking the CDR change needed on 6.2 banks setup wasn't clear in your post. So I had no idea how you were boosting the crankcase on a 6.5 like your post inferred. The fact that boost was being put into the crankcase made me want to put up the Diesel Retard sign in fun for such a comical mistake. BTW the next thing to go with crankcase pressure (from a holed piston for example) is the valve cover gaskets.

Seals don't last forever. These engines will run perfectly up to the moment they come apart or lockup. Shot bearings, not saying they are, can cause major seal leaks from the front and/or rear seal. The nice thing about 1982 6.2's is they have a rope two piece rear main seal that can be changed without separating the engine and transmission. Just drop the oil pan... You have done this already right? :thumbsup:

Normally I would apologize for the minor misunderstanding, but, you are not to the point of laughing at your mistakes yet with that post above. :twak: I try not to start off with a bad attitude. I am not always successful. But I will make an effort at it. You just read that effort.
 
I would try a crankcase evac system like on some drag cars. The other thing (if you have a turbo master and don't need the vacuum pump for anything else) is get a recovery tank and plumb the CDR to the vacuum pump and then to the recovery tank.

In this pic you see the hose running from the breather on the valve cover to the header, that's a crankcase evac system.

ccrp_9903_03_o+moroso_vacuum_pump_test+engine_hooked_up_to_the_dyno.jpg
 
The only problem w/ drafting into exhaust is the raw oil burns causing smoke and if you have a cat it will plug it quickly.
 
Mezmorized said:
Run it downstream to after the cat. I don't have one on mine :)
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I though about using the exhaust like that, but use a canister simular to a Provent inline to catch 99% of the oil before it hits the exhaust and possibly smoking. For now my CDR works.
 
I would think a full exhaust, even a straight 4", would have a small amount of positive pressure up front at the draft tube.
 
No, think carburetor. The high volume of eghaust gases rushing past creates a vacuum port.
That vacuum port is where the lime would go, no pressure only vacuum.
 
Will L. said:
No, think carburetor. The high volume of eghaust gases rushing past creates a vacuum port.
That vacuum port is where the lime would go, no pressure only vacuum.
Click to expand...

Yep, it has to do with the angle the port makes into the pipe. Notice its about 45* in the pic.
 
But there is basically no exhaust after the 45 barb. This setup is for open header race applications.. Notice the 'check valve' in the pic also...even with this setup, there is a chance of pressurizing the crankcase without the valve.

And carburetors have venturis... (venturi effect)

Okay, somebody try it already.
 
Some have tried it on Oilburners and the blow by makes their trucks look like they are smoking 24/7 and some have oil collect in their exhaust and have oil drips where the exhaust mates. Oil drips can be had w/o a catch can when venting too and the exhaust heat SHOULD burn the oil if you can get it close enough to the turbo.
 
Been there, tried it.
1- use cdr
2- use catch can system
3- vent to atmosphere
They all work, they all have draw backs. If you have to deal with anyone "official" or care about oil to the ground #3 is out. #2 is more $ and work in the begining and takes up extra space, but if you going to go for another 150-200k miles go for it.
 
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