• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Broke motor mounts, How do you change mounts?

Drago

Active Member
Messages
618
Reaction score
196
Location
Virginia
Gotta 1995 GMC 1500 NA 6.5 with a broke motor mount on the right side, so PEP Boys told me after they failed me on the state insp. I said okay do the left right and tranny mounts and they quoted 400 plus parts,85bucks, Its cold out, my bursitis and arthritis needs freaking heroin just to take the edge off, I said ok do it. three hours later I get a voice mail that says "UH this is Skippy from Pep Boys, we don't know how to do it" or words to that effect.

SOooo, How do we change the motor mounts on a 6.5? I've done mounts on small blocks, big blocks, VWs and Datsuns. What is different about this guy?

Please help, I'm calling Pep Boys Corporate on this.
 
The mounts are two parts held together with a through bolt. 4 bolts to the frame, 3 to the engine. If that is a problem, maybe another shop is in order.
 
The mounts are two parts held together with a through bolt. 4 bolts to the frame, 3 to the engine. If that is a problem, maybe another shop is in order.

Thats what I thought, maybe have to unbolt the fan shroud or drop the cross member to get some more wiggle room
 
Same process as a BBC. I would consider using the Energy Suspension inserts instead of the crappy auto parts/Chinese mounts.
If needed I can get a set for you.
 
OK got back from Pep boys, apparently on the passenger side mount, the backer nut highest up on the frame they can't get to. My gawd, I can see it and if I can see it I can get a wrench on it. It might need an extra bend on it but these guys don't want to think outside the box at all
 
You need an engine hoist to pick the engine up to do them, but I did mine back when it was a 6.5 in a few hours. An air rathet REALLY helps for this job, and a long flat wrench to get onto the nuts for the through bolts and the bolts that hold it to the frame. Otherwise they aren't bad to do.
 
Pep Boys?!?!?

Your kidding right?

Hate to be the asshat to suggest a local or distant shop that can find their ass with both hands, but, you might need to go to one at this point. It looks like things are going south quick so just get it out of there for a good shop.
 
Pep Boys?!?!?

Your kidding right?

Hate to be the asshat to suggest a local or distant shop that can find their ass with both hands, but, you might need to go to one at this point. It looks like things are going south quick so just get it out of there for a good shop.

It's in the driveway, I got most all the tools I need including the air tools . Right now my garage is set up for winter; exercise bike, punching bag, bicycles, lazy boy recliner, reloading equipment etc. so it take me at least and hour to move all the stuff out of the way.

I figure on sacrificing a box end wrench, put a bend in it and put the tail of in some steel pipe for an extension.
 
IMO it's a two person job to get that hidden in the frame bolt for the engine mount. One person on each end of the bolt.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NVW
I've seen an instance on a small block gasser truck, where they got the poly inserts fit/crammed into the clamshells in the wrong orientation & it caused a lot of unnecessary vibration transfer. It was due to the way the steel straps in the inserts interact with the engine side mount. Look at the picture below & imagine how things would interact with those straps rotated 90 degrees counter-clockwise. The inserts didn't have much room to float that way & would have been difficult to get the center bolt in - but that's how I found it. Considerable tension released when that center bolt was removed.

Mounts were pulled & the insert rotated 180 degrees which put the straps oriented like this picture of the poly inserts on my 6.5, and the annoying vibrations went away.

Don't know if this is why some 6.5 folks didn't like the poly inserts? I've never had a chance to check this situation on a 6.5 truck with poly bushings & too much vibration,... but it's worth considering.20160121_113152.jpg
 
Great pictures, I know what I need to check when I am under there for other things.

From what I gathered, there was a lot of confusion on the part number for ES Poly Mount for this truck.
I suspect those who put in the wrong insert may not like them for obvious reason.

The post at DP which shows the pictures of the different mount insert possibilities (different part #) shows that possibility.
 
Back
Top