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Bought 2 cans of Sea Foam,,,

Did you read the ingredients? Last time I checked it was Naphta (an alcohol derivative), IPA and Pale Oil according to their MSDS.
IPA is Iso-Propyl Alcohol.

May be they reformulate. Or the Pale oil is the lubricity.

MSDS:
http://www.seafoamsales.com/component/option,com_rokdownloads/Itemid,42/id,266/view,file/

I learned it from BITOG.

I did use it in my Camry a couple of times to clean the emission system and some other cars. It is sucked through the vacuum system. Leave it for 5 to 15 minutes then burnt it off by starting the engine. Works well. Too bad our truck does not have emission system or is that good? I did not use it in the oil though as suggested or the gas.

I am not saying not to use it. IMO, I won't use it in the diesel.
 
Well, I read completely through the SeaFoam website, and it says:

"To clean built-up oil residues and contamination from the crank case, add 1½ oz. Sea Foam to each quart of engine oil. Sea Foam will slowly re-liquefy residues and suspend contaminants for easy removal. Remember to change oil and filter when they become dirty."

So, they do realize that 'slowly' is an important aspect of using solvents in the crankcase. The question in my mind is "How slowly should it work in order to be safe?"

I don't have the answer to that, but I know that AutoRX compares itself to solvent flushes. http://www.auto-rx.com/pages/compare-solvent-flush.html

It appears that SeaFoam is a petroleum-based solvent, and works more slowly than other flushes, but we're talking about 30-100 minutes as opposed to 5-10 minutes. AutoRX, assuming an average speed of 40MPH in mixed driving, would be 75 hours.

We do not have empirical data in order to prove which schedule would be safest/most effective, but I would assume that a 75 hour cleaning cycle would be pretty slow and 'seems' safer.

-Rob :)
 
JMJNet said:
Did you read the ingredients? Last time I checked it was Naphta (an alcohol derivative), IPA and Pale Oil according to their MSDS.
IPA is Iso-Propyl Alcohol.
Click to expand...

What a minute.

Isn't Naphtha derived from crude oil?

Isn't Isopropyl Alcohol derived from water and propene, which also comes from petroleum?

Therefore, isn't everything in the SeaFoam derived from crude oil?

-Rob :)
 
TurboTahoe said:
What a minute.

Isn't Naphtha derived from crude oil?

Isn't Isopropyl Alcohol derived from water and propene, which also comes from petroleum?

Therefore, isn't everything in the SeaFoam derived from crude oil?

-Rob :)
Click to expand...

That is correct. Everything comes from Crude Oil!!!:smile5:
 
Where are you located and where do you get your B-100?

TurboTahoe said:
My understanding is that Sea Foam and similar solvent-based quick-action cleaners might be dangerous. The concern is that if the engine has heavy varnish and carbon deposits, then the solvent will loosen them up immediately, placing the deposits in suspension in the oil. If the deposits are heavy, then they might stay 'thick and goopy', and clog oil passages, causing engine damage when used in the crankcase. This is also true when using in fuel in high concentrations, except there they would just clog the filter and stop the engine.

I have run hundreds of gallons of biodiesel through both my 6.5s. I did it in stages. Since B100 (100% biodiesel) is easily available to me (and has a very high solvent action), I started with a 20% mix with #2 petrodiesel for a couple of tanks. I then moved to B50, then B75, finally B100. It took me many tanks to get to B100, and I had to change the fuel filters a couple of times as they loaded up. And yes, they were loaded up for sure. Now, they seem to have very little deposits on them, especially when I am running B100 in the summers.

I am therefore pretty sure that my fuel system and intake systems are pretty clear and clean. The rigs certainly run well.

As far as the engine oil sump and internal deposits, I haven't done anything so far. I am considering using a slow-acting solvent that goes under the name of "AutoRX". It is supposed to SLOWLY remove the buildups over thousands of miles. The idea is that by removing them slowly, you can keep everything in suspension, and the oil filter will catch the dissolved crud. It's pretty expensive compared to Sea Foam, however.

I DID use Sea Foam in my wife's mini-van however. My reasoning there was that I've always used synthetic oil in it, and from what I could see, the build-up of deposits was quite minimal. I put Sea Foam in the crankcase and ran the car at high idle for 45 minutes. I can certainly say that the oil seemed darker than normal, so I am pretty sure I flushed some deposits out.

Anyway, I wanted to share the concerns I have with some of the 'quick' engine flush concepts. Putting Sea Foam into the fuel manager seems like a fine idea. Should help clear the injectors.

I'm probably going to pull an injector off the Tahoe and get it tested at some point, or just replace them all. I'm pretty sure they are the originals, with 185K on them. I wonder how much the B100 has cleared them. The truck certainly is running quite well.

-Rob :)
Click to expand...
 
Great thread guys!

I have been using seafoam for years on small engines, as well as large. It's miraculous on 2-strokes. I have only used it in fuel systems, sometimes straight, mostly with gasoline. As compared to crc or gunk harsh spray dealys, I find it to be better.

This talk of filling your fuel filtre with it sounds interesting, but I'm not going to be using my truck for a guineapig. Also, I run an overdose of Lucas in every tank. I wonder how that would affect my situation. If I hear of some guys trying the *running straight seafoam* for 5 minutes method, I might try maybe a 50/50 fuel filtre full.
 
IP's and injectors should be free and clear with proper fuel filtration? I'd sure hate to ruin a good pump by running a harsh solvent through it. Maybe as a last effort on a fubar pump, possible one that sat for years if having issues?
 
I don't know about my burb... but I am going to buy a can and run it through my snapper riding mower. I tightened the grounds and it worked better. Might as well try this.

Might have to add her to my signature if it works!
 
After reading all the information on SeaFoam, I think I'll buy a spray can with the super-long extension tube and spray it directly into the intake plenum of the minivan. It's showing signs of carbon fouling (EGR problems). That might just clear it out!

-Rob :)
 
pull the brake vacuum line, and pour it in slowly,, then half way thru the can, pour faster till it stalls,,,, let it set for 20 mins,, then plug vacuum line back in, and start it up,, it will smoke like a bitoch,, lol,, there are a few u tube videos of this, it eats out the carbon, in the intake track. then put the rest of the can in the gas tank.
 
On my 305 I use it every oil change in the fuel and about every 10,000 miles since I bought it at 100,000 now has 212,000 with a few issues none involving the long block or fuel system. I run it straight through the throttle body. Just pour slowly, I don't let mine die it scares me. I might try that next time, the pipes really get the neighborhoods attention when I do it ):h
 
I worked for CARQUEST Auto Parts for 30 years, when we first started selling Seafoam in the early 80's there rep told us that it is a highly refined mineral oil. He put some on a paint lid can and lit it on fire when it quit burning he showe us the oily film it left behind. I have used this product ever since in Gas and diesel engines and have allways been amazed at the results. My wife bought a used lawn mower and tried to start it all afternoon, when I came home I smelled the gas, VARNISH, I went and got my seafoam drained the bowl and filled it with seafoam and put about 1/2 a can in the gas tank, pulled it twice and it fired and ran like a top. It is not a harsh solvent, it is Mineral oil. The reason I started reading this is because I just bought a Duramax that did not smoke when we bought it but the guy that we bought it from dumped some injector cleaner in it and after driving it for 100 miles or so it strarted smoking blue smoke, I had forgotten about seafoam in diesels until I read about a diesel tech recommending this treatment, I will be buying a filter and can of seafoam in the next day or two to give this a try, I suspect the cleaner the previous owner used dislodged some soot and stuck and injector.
 
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