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Body lift on 95 6.5TD Suburban

Interesting thought. I'd like to be able to run 33s or 34s but always heard it was super expensive to lift these IFS trucks up. I had not thought of a body lift before I just bought new tires! Nonetheless... what does this run?
 
Not sure on a suburban. I would say maybe 4-6 hrs on a truck. So probably in the $200-$400 range depending on labor rate and the time they would actually charge.


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Some picture of how the suburban sits right now without the lift

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Has a fuel leak at the tank I have to fix too. Hopefully will get started on it this week.


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I suspect your Burb has the 8.6k+ suspension if so you can trim the inside of the lower part of rear fender and flare leaving upwards of say 8" the outside of the flare leave alone, then under there is a body seam that needs to be trimmed about 1" and and/or welded & sealed.

The front fender filler panel needs to be trimmed and/or bumper moved forward 1/2" or trimmed at lower corner.

255/85/16 e 33.4" +- should work without any trimming on stock wheels, the 295/75/16 e 33.4" +- needs the trimming to work without rubbing.
 
@ FellowTraverler,
Whats the make & model of that front fab bumper & winch you got there on your Burb?
Those look strong & seem to fit like an OE part.
Did they require any special fitting/fab to install?
 
94DieselSub said:
@ FellowTraverler,
Whats the make & model of that front fab bumper & winch you got there on your Burb?
Those look strong & seem to fit like an OE part.
Did they require any special fitting/fab to install?
Click to expand...

Its a WARN "Classic" 18k capacity fit's w/o mods on chevy/gm, dodge & ford brackets may-be different, the brush guard is WARN too under the bumper there is a duct "air scoop" for diesel application. WARN no longer offers this however they can be found on c/l or the bay.

Winch is a Mile Marker 12k hydro,when using hydro the VOV on p/s must eliminated and additional cooling installed in my case dual I have factory in chassis rail cooler and a GM 4l60e cooler with dual return filtration to pump & Amsoil fluid.
 
Started on the lift today, finally. Going to be a pain. Already broke one body mount bolt off and three others I tried won't budge. It has 12 total. Dropping the fuel tank too (has leaking fuel lines). The tank came off fairly easy. The parking brake has to be disconnected also. Of course, the connector for it was rusted also, so I had to cut it. Fan shroud came off easily, as well as the filler neck and vent hose clamps.
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I'll get some more pictures of the progress tomorrow. Have about an hour in it so far, including dropping the tank. Hoping I can some how get some lubricant on the body mount nuts and let them soak, and pray the rest come off without breaking.


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I'm just curious as I have just bought the same body lift and was wondering if there is anything special since it says not for diesel engines on it. And yes this is only my second post on this forum. I've been lurking for awhile.
 
When I was considering this I found that biggest issue w/diesel is the radiator shroud must remain where it is so the taller 3500 HD radiator support which keeps the diesel shroud in stock location would be needed or space the the top of the support you have and weld together
 
My kit comes with brackets and spacers to keep the shroud in the original place with the exception of a 3 inch gap between where the upper and lower shrouds joint together. You said when you considered this. Did you not go thru with it?
 
Travis Lane said:
My kit comes with brackets and spacers to keep the shroud in the original place with the exception of a 3 inch gap between where the upper and lower shrouds joint together. You said when you considered this. Did you not go thru with it?
Click to expand...

No, I figured the higher CG of body off chassis was not what I was looking for, there was too much fabrication to consider w/dual HVAC lines, etc..

I cut the lower rear of my front fenders and run 295-75-16 e w/o issues, if I go to full cutouts or prerunner front fenders and cutout rear wheel well I can use 35"+ w/o lift I like that much better.
 
yea we cleared 285/75/16's with no problem. But its my wife's truck and she wants it higher. I guess I'll find out how much of a headache this will be this weekend.
 
She just recently became a truck gal. She decided one day that she wanted a Suburban, because I have a 93 Dodge w250 with a Cummins in it. I told her they made a diesel version and she set out to find one. She found one and went and looked at it by herself and brought it home. But now its not tall enough, needs clearance lights, and off road lights......and shes not doing any of the work.....lol
 
The body lift is on. I couldn't get a few of the body mount bolts off with my impact and it was too cold working on it in my non heated barn, so I ended up letting a buddy finish it up in his heated shop. There were no issues. I'll get some finished pictures up soon. The only downside is that the hvac lines running on the outside of the frame rail are now visible. A few zip ties should be able to get them tucked back up in the rockers and get them mostly hidden. The air cleaner will need modified to have it still attach to the fender, but other than that it is all pretty straight forward. No issues with it being a diesel.


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Did you get rid of the lower fan shroud or space it? Any wires or cables you had to undo to lengthen? Also about how long did it take you over all? sorry for all the questions. I just like to do my research and have my ducks in a row before I start something lol
 
Used the spacers for the fan shroud. I wasn't there when he put the pucks in, but you shouldn't have to lengthen any wires. Between the time I had in it and what he had in it was probably around 10 hrs. Took longer bc of the rusted body mount bolts. If all goes well, which it probably won't, you could probably get it done in 6 or 7 hrs.


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