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Never order anything on Amazon that isn't marked with prime. when it's not marked with prime, that means Amazon is just the site hosting the sales add and you deal directly with the seller, not to mention getting your cc card given out with no real protection. we have dealt with this at work. Amazon is getting more and more like flea bay. you really have to look out for which seller you purchase from.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Never order anything on Amazon that isn't marked with prime. when it's not marked with prime, that means Amazon is just the site hosting the sales add and you deal directly with the seller, not to mention getting your cc card given out with no real protection. we have dealt with this at work. Amazon is getting more and more like flea bay. you really have to look out for which seller you purchase from.
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Thanks for the heads up. I'll be more careful about that from now on.
 
After studying the engine bay and the pics posted by bobbiemartin, his location is probably the best. I noted he installed a fitting to drain directly to the oil pan, while using a check valve. I believe the check valve allow the fitting to be installed above the oil level, as it blocks crank case pressure while the engine is running, but allows oil to drain from the ProVent when the engine is off and there is no pressure. Question would be whether I have to drop the pan to accomplish the fitting installation?
 
Big T said:
After studying the engine bay and the pics posted by bobbiemartin, his location is probably the best. I noted he installed a fitting to drain directly to the oil pan, while using a check valve. I believe the check valve allow the fitting to be installed above the oil level, as it blocks crank case pressure while the engine is running, but allows oil to drain from the ProVent when the engine is off and there is no pressure. Question would be whether I have to drop the pan to accomplish the fitting installation?
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I used a fitting once that had sheet metal threads and a rubber washer.

I might have ended up with a slight backwards twist on the hose. Causing it to back out just a tiny over time. That's the only reasonable explanation I could think of for it starting to leak.

Mine leaked. Ended up welding it later.
 
How good are you’re brazing or welding skills? Drain the oil, drill the hole, weld on a fitting. Put out the oil fire, clean out the ashes and hook it up! Haha

Seriously- I would pull the pan if you don’t want to use the little valve because anything else is going to risk coming free later. I suppose you could do JB Weld? But you are adding something to make an improvement, risking dumping oil doesn’t feel like an improvement to me.

Using the valve and dumping in where the turbo does is fine- but you need a separate port than the turbo because you don’t want anything to disturb the flow of oil from the turbo. Maybe takeoff both plates, weld in a drain port to the upper section?
 
Will L. said:
How good are you’re brazing or welding skills? Drain the oil, drill the hole, weld on a fitting. Put out the oil fire, clean out the ashes and hook it up! Haha

Seriously- I would pull the pan if you don’t want to use the little valve because anything else is going to risk coming free later. I suppose you could do JB Weld? But you are adding something to make an improvement, risking dumping oil doesn’t feel like an improvement to me.

Using the valve and dumping in where the turbo does is fine- but you need a separate port than the turbo because you don’t want anything to disturb the flow of oil from the turbo. Maybe takeoff both plates, weld in a drain port to the upper section?
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I'm going to mount it on the driver's side. No room on the turbo side. Initial install will be with drain line hanging with a ball valve. I have a separate engine with a pan that I can pull and get a fitting brazed in. Yes I can braze and I can weld, but I don't have the equipment. I would take the pan to a friend who does welding for a living.
 
So I got the 1” elbow that I intend to install in the passenger side valve cover grommet:

IMG_0600.jpeg

It fits loosely in the grommet. It lacks the exanded flare on the pipe from the CDR:


IMG_0598.jpeg

Elbow is about 1/16” smaller than it needs to be for it to fit snugly. What are my solutions? Can I use a pipe expander on stainless, or will it just crack? Could I find a grommet with a slightly smaller opening? Could I slip a rubber sleeve over the elbow?
 
Just thinking off the top of my head, how thick of a wall is 1" pex or similar tubing? maybe heat some plastic tubing enough or some of that clear rubber hose over the elbow and cut it flush with the elbow end. then slip it into the grommet while still hot. the grommet will be tight but will make itself a grove to sit in and stay in place as the tubing cools down.

edit: if you use some black rubber hose, use some of the vulcanizing goop used on tire patches on the surface with the grommet and it will adhere to each other like a solid piece.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Just thinking off the top of my head, how thick of a wall is 1" pex or similar tubing? maybe heat some plastic tubing enough or some of that clear rubber hose over the elbow and cut it flush with the elbow end. then slip it into the grommet while still hot. the grommet will be tight but will make itself a grove to sit in and stay in place as the tubing cools down.

edit: if you use some black rubber hose, use some of the vulcanizing goop used on tire patches on the surface with the grommet and it will adhere to each other like a solid piece.
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Yeah I was thinking black rubber hose, but just getting it slid over the stainless tube would do the trick. Not sure I would need vulcanizing goop. Anything I can get on it will result in a tight fit:


It was that or sorting trough PCV Valve grommets from Dorman to find a tighter fit.
 
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What about that old style electricians tape that when you wrap it onto it's self it basically becomes one piece? I can't remember the name if it, but from the look of it in your video you don't need to take up much space between the grommet and the pipe.

I was also thinking about that epoxy putty or steel putty that you can form around the pipe. shape it how you want so that it has a sort of barb or lip on both inside and out. let it harden and then pop it in the grommet.
 
dbrannon79 said:
What about that old style electricians tape that when you wrap it onto it's self it basically becomes one piece? I can't remember the name if it, but from the look of it in your video you don't need to take up much space between the grommet and the pipe.

I was also thinking about that epoxy putty or steel putty that you can form around the pipe. shape it how you want so that it has a sort of barb or lip on both inside and out. let it harden and then pop it in the grommet.
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I’m thinking shrink tubing would do the job.
 
Idk about heat shrink, definitely not electric tape - not even 10 mil.

JB Weld would work good. Just build up the 90° fitting on the one end and if you make it a little too thick, jb weld sands down well.
 
I know out in the garage I have some rubber sleeves made for cooling systems. I dont remember if they are for adapting radiator hoses or heater hoses.
You might check with the parts stores and see if they have some sleeves such as that.
 
Will L. said:
Different hose built for different chemicals. They don’t withstand oil.
Some oil hoses don’t withstand high heat.
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It’d hold until a good substitute is found.
Or use an oil rated hose to fit the EL and stretch it over the CDR fitting.
Find oil rated hose to fit the CDR and double clamp it to the EL.
IDK if there is oil rated hose that would have a neck down like that.
Might also be possible to find an EL that is larger on one end. Even a plastic EL.
 
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