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Blow by

MikFish

MikFish

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Hello, I have begun to notice a small amount of blow by on my 1996 2wd. It has 218,000 miles, all original internal. Have upgraded and modified a few bolt on parts and pieces for the outside. Any comments or suggestions? Thanks.
 
I did blow a heater hose last summer and drove it for about a mile before I could get off the road and out of traffic. It pegged the temp gauge by the time I realized what had happened. Besides the heater hose, I did replace the water pump and fan as well.
 
So my guess is the blowby will get progressively worse. When they get too hot they lose their temper and have significantly less tension. That's the boat I was in on my 96, chugged like a freight train til it finally died with 306k on it.
 
It’s almost comical that I suggest this because a ‘fix in a can’ has always been what I made fun of. But every independent test has shown this stuff helps and hasn’t harmed any engine with 100,000 miles on it. I wouldn’t put it in anything less because it could build up in tight tolerance where you don’t want it maybe. It’s called:
“Restore”
Engine restore and lube

Engine Restorer

RESTORE Engine Restorer is the only product proven to repair worn cylinders and restore compression back to near original levels.
www.restoreusa.com www.restoreusa.com
 
I don't mean to bring up an older thread, but did this engine restorer get used? if so how was the results. Mine has some blowby and after this weekend when I get to check the compression I was considering trying a bottle on my truck,
 
Awesome, keep us posted! I'm due an oil change already. once I get to check compression this weekend and see if that's part of my hard to start issue, I'll defiantly try this out and share some results. hoping for the best! I have a vacation trip to the coast middle of next month and planning to drive my rig there an back, about 150ish miles one way. Just trying to squeeze every bit of life out of my truck before I'm forced to make the big decision of another engine or another truck!
 
Will L. said:
It’s almost comical that I suggest this because a ‘fix in a can’ has always been what I made fun of. But every independent test has shown this stuff helps and hasn’t harmed any engine with 100,000 miles on it. I wouldn’t put it in anything less because it could build up in tight tolerance where you don’t want it maybe. It’s called:
“Restore”
Engine restore and lube

Engine Restorer

RESTORE Engine Restorer is the only product proven to repair worn cylinders and restore compression back to near original levels.
www.restoreusa.com www.restoreusa.com
Click to expand...

I use this instead of AstroGlide :)
 
@Big T :My friend, ya need help.
I put a can in each of my Toyotas, and one in my son’s dodge. I can’t say anything positive or negative from my usage. But there is a bunch of folks that had positive results from it.
Here is some basic testing worth watching:
 
@Will L. both of these videos is what started my curiosity in using this on our trucks to prolong the painful death. I'm actually curious also in the fact would it help even with the smallest engine wear as a preventive or to regain lost power from wear.

I picked up my co-workers compression tester today, it has all the adaptors for GM, Ford, and Dodge :)

I have a couple of questions for preforming a compression test.

What numbers should I see for the compression? ie.. excellent, good, marginal, and ugly.

when I do the "dry" compression test, in my mind I'm thinking a DRY test is done first thing of a morning, hasn't been started yet, fuel disconnected by unplugging the PMD and glow plugs are disabled from firing. Correct me if I misunderstood.

Do I first pull all the GP's out before I spin over the engine or leave GP's in the other cylinders while testing?

Just wanting to make sure I do this correctly.
 
ak diesel driver said:
Pull all the glow plugs and your test will be dry as in don't squirt any oil in the cylinders. It could fire from the oil
Click to expand...
Thanks, I was thinking dry meant not allowing any fuel or oil into the cylinders and disable the glow plug power while cranking. just wasn't sure if the proper way was pull all the glows out first to allow it to spin freeier (no compression stroke for other cylinders) or leave them in.
 
And you have to kill the fuel from coming in, so unplug fuel shut off solenoid.

do the test, post the numbers here and don’t put anything back together until you here from one of us.
depending what you get, we might have you do diagnostic on one or kore cylinders.
 
my plan right now is for friday evening to pull the truck up on stands, pull the right inner fender and down pipe and get everything ready to pull the glows. then on saturday morning while it's still cool outside, go pull the glows and start testing each cylinder and post results. then Ill wait for you guys. :)

other things I have planned this weekend is changing one of the heater hoses under the fender I saw had some deformation and inspect the hose from the T on the lower rad hose to the coolant bottle. plus change the oil. but all that can wait till the testing is done.

so be ready Saturday morning, Ill be out there swatting mosquitos and sweating lol
 
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