Blow by

[Big T]

So you think Engine Restore will correct blowby on the 6.5?

 

[dbrannon79]

I wouldn't think it would correct it but just help in the case of high mileage. from my understanding the compound materials just help fill gaps and crevices to make a better seal on the piston walls. my fear is what will it do to the tiny oil passages like on some of the blocks that have the sprayers in the pistons. clog up and cause catastrophic failure?

 

[dbrannon79]

one of those youtube videos shows the bottle labeled to work on diesel engines, but not to use on certain diesel engines. I forget what type, but are our 6.5's of the type not to use on? that's my concern

 

[Will L.]

I can’t see it hurting the engine and it does help scored cylinder walls some.

Further Testing might be cylinder leak down test, checking for stuck rings, checking for equal kisting of fuel out the cylinders.

just want to verify, you understand remove all 8 glowplugs, remove fso wire, cycle engine a couple seconds, then install tester into cylinders one at a time for readings. YouTube videos help if not familiar.

 

[Husker6.5]

Without looking at a can, I think the diesels not to use it in are the HEUI Ford/Navistar systems that have that close tolerance high pressure oil pump for the injectors.

 

[Big T]

Without looking at a can, I think the diesels not to use it in are the HEUI Ford/Navistar systems that have that close tolerance high pressure oil pump for the injectors.

Didn’t those Ford/Navistar engines have issues with the blocks developing pits or holes and required an additive in the coolant to prevent?

 

[dbrannon79]

I can’t see it hurting the engine and it does help scored cylinder walls some.

Further Testing might be cylinder leak down test, checking for stuck rings, checking for equal kisting of fuel out the cylinders.

just want to verify, you understand remove all 8 glowplugs, remove fso wire, cycle engine a couple seconds, then install tester into cylinders one at a time for readings. YouTube videos help if not familiar.

FSO wire is the fuel solenoid (round cylinder thingy on top of the IP by the fuel inlet) just making sure.

Ill have it all setup Friday night ready to pull the glow plugs (marking each per cylinder #) then Saturday morning pull them and dive in!

 

[Will L.]

@Big T
Yes, but that is nitrite in the coolant. That is a super common issue in diesels. The 6.2/6.5 does not have that issue because of our blocks and cylinder liner design. Infact high nitrite is counter productive to us. That is the problem with dexcool and all long life coolants in our system- it is devastating to our heads, it will dramatically speed up the cracking in the steam pockets between the valves, and turn to muddy sediment in our blocks.

@dbrannon79
Yes, you have it right.

 

[dbrannon79]

@Will L. I didn't go wrong by adding that coolant additive from Napa with I had my radiator fixed last year? I had the plastic tank replaced on my radiator last year due to it being just rotten and brittle. when I reinstalled it I used the regular green antifreeze and Napa gave me a pint bottle to add to the coolant and said all diesel's use it for erosion in the cylinder walls! I will have to look on thier site to see what exactly it was. it was a white Napa labeled pint bottle

 

[dbrannon79]

I believe this was the stuff they gave me I found the SDS sheet too.

 

[Will L.]

Yup. High nitrates. Flush it.
Use old school green antifreeze and if you add anything else-2 bottles of water wetter that is NOT FOR DIESELS. Use the gasoline type water wetter.
DO NOT add coolant filters that have the additives either.

 

[dbrannon79]

Well I guess I will add flushing the system to the list after the compression test! I posted another thread asking about trying to clean and clear up the coolant overflow mounted on the firewall too. I'm wondering if using the power washer on it and a weekend soaking in a tub of citric acid will help!

 

[dbrannon79]

DO NOT add coolant filters that have the additives either.

lol how did you know I was reading that thread on adding a water filter. no worries, not gonna do that. water wetter sounds like a good idea though!

 

[MrMarty51]

Well I guess I will add flushing the system to the list after the compression test! I posted another thread asking about trying to clean and clear up the coolant overflow mounted on the firewall too. I'm wondering if using the power washer on it and a weekend soaking in a tub of citric acid will help!

Fill it with apple cider vinegar. Let it soak for a couple of days. Acid in the vinegar cleans most anything and is easily disposed of.
Apple cider vinegar is higher in acid content than white vinegar. It cleans up varnished carbs real well too.
I believe it may have been Will L that mentioned to crank over the engine several times, after fuel system is disabled and GPs are removed. That would be to clear the cylinders of fuel and preventing the cylinder that has the compression gauge hooked to it from firing in that hole. Might be terrible bad for the compression tester if that happened.

 

[Stoney]

Ok..so guess I've got to flush my cooling system...that should be fun...I was told to only use dex cool antifreeze in truck so that's what I've always done..guess I'll flush it and go with regular green antifreeze...what should I use to flush it , just water or a additive

 

[DieselAmateur]

I have the NAPA brand orange antifreeze myself, not DexCool but was advertised as for heavy duty trucks so I went with it...

When flushing cooling system, how do you get the water/ old antifreeze out of the block short of knocking out the frost plugs? I've seen videos of trucks running hooked up to a garden hose to flush system, with the radiator drain open, but then you're left with hard water and/ or old antifreeze in the block right?

sorry if its something of a derailment, just seems me and a few others are in the same boat...

 

[MrMarty51]

First pull the drain plugs from the block, before making a mess on the floor.
Then bust open the drain cock on the radiator.
Disconnect the heater hoses and blow fresh water through that. Then, use slight air pressure and blow out the heater core, refill it, blow it out, switching directions of air each time. You will be surprised how much crap will emanate from that. Not so much with the water but from the air.
Be careful though, use a slight amount of air until the water moves out of the core, then, giver a fair shot.
That should have everything pretty well emptied of prestone, install the block drain plugs but dont tighten. Close rad drain cock, refill system with water then drain it all out again. That should have most all the prestone removed. Then if so desired, install one of them coolant system flush kits and have at it.
Just be sure to drain the block, heater core and radiator, install drain plugs, heater hoses and tighten everything down, then filler up wit prestone.
At least thats the way I have done it.

 

[Will L.]

I always just disconnected top radiator hose from radiator. Drain out that hose best i can, then remove thermostat. Put stat housing and hose back engine, and hook the radiator side of the hose to an EPA friendly & approved reception device because draining to the ground is bad for panda bears. Turn heater onto high. Put garden hose into upper radiator port and stuff a rag around it to seal up most the way, and turn on the water. Once it is running clear, start engine. Usually have to turn up the water more to keep up with waterpump.
Then hose into where the radiator cap is
once it runs clear again, your done.

You can disconnect lower radiator if you are impatient a d you can hookup air hose to stat housing to push water out andnot worry about too much pressure in radiator.

remember after getting out that water, to use distilled water to refill with the antifreeze.

 

[DieselAmateur]

@Will L. So once the water runs clear from feeding into the upper radiator & surge tank with the truck running, draining the rad will get rid of all leftover water in system including block?

 

[MrMarty51]

Block drains are separate. Need to crawl under the truck to get to those.
After the plugs are removed, sometimes it takes some jabbing into the drain plug holes to get the crust of sand and mineral busted up to get them to drain out.