Bizzare nonstart

[Tovar]

Let me describe the scene... Used the vehicle for approximately 60 miles on a warm day with several shut down stops. After the last stop (approx. 10 mins.). Vehicle would not start (turns over, but won't start). After about 10-15 mins. and 5-6 start attempts, vehicle started, and I drove 30 miles to the house. I have a fuel pressure gauge installed, and while attempting to start the vehicle, I had 10psi each time. Also, no codes "popped". However, while driving back to the house, I did get a little bouncing on the needle on the fuel pressure gauge. I got to the house, shut down, and waited a few mins., and then tried to start. It started every time like normal.
My remedy was to swap out my extra PMD onto my bumper mounted kit, and change my fuel filters (one in the stock fuel unit and one mounted after the tank on the side rail and before the Carter fuel pump, as well as check my grounds (clean and tight).
Few days passed. Went to start the vehicle, and it started right up. I drove five miles to the store. Shut down. I was in the store 10-15 mins. Came out. Went to start the vehicle...no start (turns over, but no start, solid fuel pressure). After 5-6 attempts, the vehicle started, and I drove to the house. Shut down, and waited 10-15 mins. Attempted to start, and it started right up like normal.
Here is a possible pattern I see. Truck starts fine for 5-6 starts, then will not start for 5-6 attempts, and then starts...?
I have many modifications on this vehicle. Basically, everything they say to make this a reliable vehicle. But, here we go again.
Has anyone had similar symptoms...? If so, how'd you fix it?

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

Has electrical connection written all over it... hope you have a spare PMD...

 

[Tovar]

As I stated above. I already replaced the old PMD with the extra I carried which was a brand new PMD. Which means a new PMD was installed

 

[Will L.]

Swap the pmd WHILE it is having no start is how to narrow that down. But since nonstart happened after swap,


Any bubbles in the clear return line while no start occurring?

Where is your fuel gauge tapped at? Hopefully right at the ip inlet. Several folks fought plugging issues after pressure check location to expensive detriment.

Any smoke, and if so what color smoke while cranking and no start?

What rpm while cranking and no start?

 

[Tovar]

No bubbles, no smoke, tapped at inlet, and not sure of cranking rpm. I did not take notice of that at the time. Will do when vehicle fails again.

 

[Will L.]

Ok. Other thing to do when it wont start is if someone can crank while You crack an injector line nut to see if any fuel is coming out. Just a little should spit out.

 

[Tovar]

Will L. Let's say IP could have some gunk build up. I have heard of using ATF to clean all that out of IP, Injectors, etc.. Do you know the procedure on how to do that? Also, I have the pre filter kit from Leroy Diesel along with the use of a Carter lift pump. Any reason why I don't just bypass the FFM, and run straight to the IP? Do they make a clear diesel compatible fuel line to use in place of the normal black?

 

[ak diesel driver]

https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/hard-hot-start-causes.47882/

might read this

 

[NVW]

Remove the fuel out of the FFM with a turkey baster or something similar, fill with ATF. Most just use clear plastic 1/4" or 5/16", (can't remember) tubing for the return line. Could be a faulty fuel shut off solenoid or connection.

 

[Will L.]

It’s &.1/4” diameter about 5 or 6” long
sold by the foot in any hardware store. It is not rated as fuel line, and will only last 2–3 years. Buyit and 2 new scr stylel and hose clamps should be under $5. Just check it for clarity and being hard/ brittle at each oil change.

No one I could find would sell small amount of clear viton hose. If you find some, please share location.

 

[jrsavoie]

Remove the fuel out of the FFM with a turkey baster or something similar, fill with ATF. Most just use clear plastic 1/4" or 5/16", (can't remember) tubing for the return line. Could be a faulty fuel shut off solenoid or connection.

i USE A 12 volt fuel pump. Sometimes an old lift pump. I suck the fuel out and if necessary use some Sea Foam to clean the bowl and suck it out again.

 

[jrsavoie]

It’s &.1/4” diameter about 5 or 6” long
sold by the foot in any hardware store. It is not rated as fuel line, and will only last 2–3 years. Buyit and 2 new scr stylel and hose clamps should be under $5. Just check it for clarity and being hard/ brittle at each oil change.

No one I could find would sell small amount of clear viton hose. If you find some, please share location.

That'd be a good thing for a Vendor to sell. Maybe Twisted Steel Performance, Leroy or Quadstar could buy a roll and sell it by the 6".

I do not leave the line on for fear I will forget to check it, it will go bad and I will have a fuel leak when I don't want one. Like you ever want a leak.

They could advertise it as clear IP return line. Charge 4x what it costs to make it worth messing with.

It's a thing that everybody with a 6.5 looks for

 

[jrsavoie]

A couple other things to try - Run the IP return to a container. A plugged return will cause issues. I've had it a couple of times.

I also jumper the lift pump and run at least 1/2 gallon of fuel out the T drain to a gallon pickle jar. Leave it sit for 20 minutes and check for water bubbles on the bottom or crud. It only takes one bad tank of fuel to cause issues.

 

[Tovar]

AK diesel driver. I read your information. I neglected to mention this earlier because I thought it was not note worthy, but even though I'm not getting any codes (yet), I have had the security light, on the dash, illuminate several times before this no start problem started. It would come on randomly while driving, and disappear after shutoff. I have the Kojo tune for the A Team Turbo. After reading you information, I'm thinking this security light is telling me something, but I don't know what. Any thoughts?

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

That'd be a good thing for a Vendor to sell. Maybe Twisted Steel Performance, Leroy or Quadstar could buy a roll and sell it by the 6".

I do not leave the line on for fear I will forget to check it, it will go bad and I will have a fuel leak when I don't want one. Like you ever want a leak.

They could advertise it as clear IP return line. Charge 4x what it costs to make it worth messing with.

It's a thing that everybody with a 6.5 looks for

Their IS a fuel rated clear hose about any hardware store will have hanging on the rack... it's 'lawn mower" fuel line, comes in a couple sizes and maybe 12-18" long for a couple bucks, stays soft for many years, if y'all want I will but a few packs, charge 5X the cost plus charge shipping, just let me know how many packs you want...

 

[ak diesel driver]

You need a scanner to read any U codes. Could be the Passlock module is going bad. If you have a U1000 it means Passlock is disabled in the PCM or possibly a bad Passlock module. Quadstar said the light shouldn't be coming on if the Passlock is disabled in the PCM.

 

[Tovar]

Is this pass lock module an item that can be bought? If so, what vender? If it has to be found in a salvage yard what vehicles would be compatible, or does it have to be from a '99 6.5? I saw your pictures as to the location of this module. To be clear, pretty much straight down from the radio (underneath).

 

[Tovar]

Better yet, is there any way to totally bypass the security system? The VATS or pass lock, what ever system is in this truck. This is worthless system, and I have no need or desire to have this system...locking the door is good enough. Just want the truck to run when I start it. To have the truck not start and run, when everything is functioning, just because of non functioning system that is not even needed is maddening.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Is this pass lock module an item that can be bought? If so, what vender? If it has to be found in a salvage yard what vehicles would be compatible, or does it have to be from a '99 6.5? I saw your pictures as to the location of this module. To be clear, pretty much straight down from the radio (underneath).

It has been discontinued by GM but I posted the name of the the outfit that sells them with a lifetime warranty. Need to pull yours and get the number off it. I suspect it is the same as mine.

Better yet, is there any way to totally bypass the security system? The VATS or pass lock, what ever system is in this truck. This is worthless system, and I have no need or desire to have this system...locking the door is good enough. Just want the truck to run when I start it. To have the truck not start and run, when everything is functioning, just because of non functioning system that is not even needed is maddening.

I've read there's supposed to be a work around for the Vats but afaik the PCM delete is the only good solution

 

[Tovar]

Can you explain the PCM delete? Is that a service like a PCM tune where the security system is wiped out? If so, what vender could do that? I'd be interested in that.