Big 6.5 Test

[Acesneights1]

maybe a cowl hood would help.....

If I put a top mount I/C under..yes:thumbsup:

 

[TurboTahoe]

Hey Kenny,

You didn't say what-all you were towing. I know that with REALLY big loads, you should move from pickup to a tractor-trailer

I would think a big issue is your short wheelbase. The Tahoe would tend to shift back and forth.

Rob

 

[Acesneights1]

Hey Kenny,

You didn't say what-all you were towing. I know that with REALLY big loads, you should move from pickup to a tractor-trailer

I would think a big issue is your short wheelbase. The Tahoe would tend to shift back and forth.

Rob

Hey Rob,Post #6 has the info. I have a weight dist hitch so the truck actually handles the weight fine. No lack of power pulling, just can't keep the thing cool. Actually had Bill H on the phone on the way back and he's scratching his head too. Say I covered all the bases and the camper should be no problem for the truck. I gotta download the snapshot from my laptop. Maybe that will shed some light on things but right now I'm also looking at a toasted IP which isn't helping my finacial aspects.

 

[iamdave0887]

aces. when you did the severe duty cooling upgrade you also did the dual t-stat and HO waterpump right? just for the heck of it what t-stat do you have temp wise and brand. i've got twin napa 195s in my truck and they seem to work very well.

 

[Acesneights1]

I have single t stat. Heath's severe duty kit comes with factory GM T stat. There was alot of different opions on the old site about whether 2 T stats makes a difference or not. Bill says no, Kennedy says yes. This much I know, My 2000 has dual and overheats as easily if not worse than my 95 and rad has been pulled and cleaned as well as coolers. I'm working on the snapshot now.

 

[Acesneights1]

Snapshot

Here's the snapshot while climbing a long grade. What is doesn't show was Pre Turbo EGT which was about 1100.

Snapshot created 7/7/2008 10:04:53 AM
__________________________________________________________________
ENGINE SENSORS
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Engine run time: 01:26:26
Boost pressure (MAP): 27.81 PSI
Desired EGR: 15.23 PSI
Desired idle: 806 RPM
EGR pressure: 14.29 PSI
EGR duty cycle: 0 %
Engine coolant temp: 227.9 F°
Engine speed: 2212 RPM
Glow plug relay feedback: 0 Volts
Glow plug voltage: 0.2 Volts
Ignition voltage: 12.8 Volts
Wastegate duty cycle: 0 %

__________________________________________________________________
INFORMATION SENSORS
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PCM Calibration ID: 4805
Current DTCs: 0
Accel. ped. pos. 1: 1.9 Volts
Accel. ped. pos. 2: 3.18 Volts
Accel. ped. pos. 3: 3.31 Volts
Barometric pressure (BARO): 13.4 PSI
Battery voltage: 12.9 Volts
Fuel temperature: 126.4 F°
Intake air temp: 256.2 F°
Throttle position: 48 %
Turbo boost (Calculated): 14.42 PSI
Voltage reference sensor: 1.2 Volts

__________________________________________________________________
INJECTION PUMP SENSORS
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Actual injection pump timing: 37.31 Deg °
Cam reference missed: 0 Counts
Crank reference missed: 0 Counts
Fuel calibration: 150 Counts
Fuel rate: 60.31 mm³
Fuel rate - Cruise: 0 mm³
Fuel rate - Idle: 0 mm³
Fuel rate - Maximum transient: 70.62 mm³
Fuel rate - Throttle requested: 72.75 mm³
Injection pulse width: 1.94 ms
Injection timing - Measured: 15.1 Deg °
Injection timing - Desired: 14.8 Deg °
TDC offset: -1.94 Deg °

__________________________________________________________________
TRANSMISSION SENSORS
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3-2 PWM solenoid duty cycle: 0 %
Cruise target speed: 0 MPH
Cruise speed error: 0 MPH
Current gear of transmission: 4 Gear
Current torque signal pressure: 55 PSI
Current transmission ratio: 1:0.06 Ratio
Error between desired and actual shift times for latest 1-2 upshift: 0.18 Sec
Error between desired and actual shift times for latest 2-3 upshift: 0.12 Sec
Force motor (PCS) - Duty cycle: 31.2 %
Force motor (PCS) - Feedback current: 0.51 Amps
Force motor (PCS) - Reference current: 0.51 Amps
Time of latest 1-2 upshift: 0.15 Sec
Time of latest 2-3 upshift: 0.22 Sec
TCC PWM solenoid duty cycle: 0 %
TCC slippage: 49 RPM
Transmission input speed: 1936 RPM
Transmission output speed: 1934 RPM
Transmission temperature: 192.2 F°
Turbine speed: 1452 RPM
Vehicle speed: 51.5 MPH

__________________________________________________________________
STATUS FLAGS
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Shift lever:
Drive 4

Cruise control:

TCC mode word 1:
TCC is being forced off
TCC enable solenoid valid
Low threshold for COPETCC selected
Use hyst. for vehicle speed
TCC is in release mode, slipping
TCC is in locked-adjust mode
TCC is being applied
Negative slip recently prevents apply

TCC mode word 2:
TCC PWM is on
• Perform release
Perform apply
Min. threshold occurred
• TCC Bus. is valid
NDT occurs
Delay is in progress
Min. throttle occured

IOD port A:
Glow plug relay - Closed/Open
• Stepper motor inhibit - Run/Inhibit
Service Throttle Lamp - On/Off
EGR vent enable - On/Off
• Shift A - On/Off
• Shift B - On/Off
TCC enable - On/Off (4L60E only)
• Force Motor enable - On/Off

IOD SOD status register:
Coolant temp. pullup select - On/Off
Trans. temp. pullup select - On/Off
Fuel calibration temp. select - On/Off
Check Engine Lamp - On/Off
PWM1 - Reset/Normal
PWM2 - Reset/Normal
PWM3 - Reset/Normal
PWM4 - Reset/Normal

System status word:
FM shut off due to low battery
Force Motor pulse in progress
• Power is On/Off
COP2 is being serviced
Delco instrumentation PROM
• Powertrain is in motion

Discrete flags:
Brake - On/Off
• A/C Compressor - Engaged/Disengaged
Power enrichment - Active/Inactive
Kickdown pattern - Active/Inactive
Four-Wheel Drive Low - Active/Inactive
Cruise low - Active/Inactive
Diagnostic - Requested/Not requested


__________________________________________________________________
GMTDScan Tech © Engh Motors - www.EnghMotors.com

 

[Acesneights1]

Just a note on the snapshot. It shows EGR functions but I swapped to an F intake so egr is present in looks only. Also check my sig for mods etc.

 

[CheeseSteak]

I'm with Kennedy, I think you need the dual thermostat housing.

You've got a real nice Tahoe, I'd hate to see you give up on it at this point. Heath and Kennedy are both standup operations, I'm sure they'd be glad to hear either way if going to dual T-stats helps.

 

[radrick]

Acesneights1,
You saw 235 on the hills!!!! I thought that anything above 210 was bad news for the 6.5.

I pulled a car a couple of weeks ago and saw 216 and was freaking out.

Someone please set me straight.

I bought my truck last Aug. it had never pulled anything heavier than a boat. I hooked up to a HD trailer with a backhoe and a bunch of retaining wall block on it and pulled it home in 90f+ temps. My temp gage went up well over center but I didn't worry about it too much as it didn't get anywhere near the red. The next day as the truck warmed up I stopped at a stop sign and I heard a ticking noise, it has been there ever since. It only ticks between 160 and 180 on the temp gage as it is warming up. I am an engine machinist and have heard allot of noisy motors, it sounds like piston slap to me. I later found you guys and Heath diesel. Bill thinks I clapped a piston do to coolant temp and a worn injector causing that piston temp to get to high. So far it hasn't gotten any worse but I think a rebuild is definitely in the not to distant future.

How hot is to hot???? If my truck goes over 210f I will turn off the key!!!! I would suggest the same to anyone that asks.

 

[iamdave0887]

do you have the HO water pump on the tahoe aces? its strange that your 2000 overheats as well. i know that with the dexcool in my truck it sludged up the thermostats and that would stick closed sometimes but mostly would stick open. when they stuck closed the temp would creep a little above normal then the stats would pop open and the temp would go back down. i'd say get yourself some 180 degree t-stats for both trucks, unless you've done that already. that might help. other than that i have no idea since your rads are clean and everything else seem to be up to spec.

 

[Slim Shady]

RE; thermo stats

I went with the dual stat setup and HO water pump after having a similar problem with my 95 2500.

I went to the local speed shop and bought a matched set of high flow 180 degree stats. I also bought a set of 195 high flow stats.

The 180 stats would only let the motor get to 178 degrees at regular driving and towing was 185 to 190.

Now the 195 made the truck run much better and increased my mileage by 2 MPG. Go figure. So stayed with 195 stats. Now high heat 100 degree day in Viginia going through I-77 without a load saw temps of 197, 200, then stats opened all the way and temp dropped to 194, consistent.

Guess what I am trying to say is flow makes the difference. The dual stats flow more coolant if you get ( Racing, not street legal stats) that is what the package says at least). Might be worth a try.

The dual stats are just standard Chevy stats so get the high flow racing stats NOT the standard stats. Worth a shot for 9 dollars per stat at the local online racing store.

This is the stat you want to try
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MRG-4364&autoview=sku


Compared to this http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-360180&autoview=sku

 

[jcool]

even with dual thermostats how is that going to help with the air intake temp of 260? the same amount of heat will still disapate into the intake....

 

[Turbine Doc]

Sumthin ain't rite, did you clean ac condenser so you are getting good flow to rad, you also said repaced rad, GM rad or aftermarket rad?

 

[Slim Shady]

Sumthin ain't rite, did you clean ac condenser so you are getting good flow to rad, you also said repaced rad, GM rad or aftermarket rad?

Those are my thoughts exactly, if he did do everything as he said then the stats are the only thing left untouched.

 

[Slim Shady]

even with dual thermostats how is that going to help with the air intake temp of 260? the same amount of heat will still disapate into the intake....

Sounds like maybe he needs a new Turbo that is less restrictive, HUMMMMM:biggrin5: that will also give him cooler intake temps.

 

[Turbine Doc]

also MAP reading 27.81(psia is what PCM sees) - 14.7 for 13.11 psig what boost gauge shows is purty high in non cooled boost, probably purty high in backpressure as well on the GM turbo, 260F IAT ain't helping

 

[jcool]

also MAP reading 27.81(psia is what PCM sees) - 14.7 for 13.11 psig what boost gauge shows is purty high in non cooled boost, probably purty high in backpressure as well on the GM turbo, 260F IAT ain't helping

so a true cold air along with some smoothing of the turbo inlets piping may very well remedy a lot of these issues you think? along with a intercooler maybe...

 

[Goldsburg]

so a true cold air along with some smoothing of the turbo inlets piping may very well remedy a lot of these issues you think? along with a intercooler maybe...

Installing an I/C will help with temperatures some, but the excessive turbine restriction (backpressure) will still be there. The EGT's will also suffer under the rule of the GM-X turbo, driving that much more heat into the heads and consequently the cooling system.

He would likely have better results running just enough boost to keep his exhaust "clear" under load at WOT...

Regards,

Goldsburg

 

[Acesneights1]

do you have the HO water pump on the tahoe aces? its strange that your 2000 overheats as well. i know that with the dexcool in my truck it sludged up the thermostats and that would stick closed sometimes but mostly would stick open. when they stuck closed the temp would creep a little above normal then the stats would pop open and the temp would go back down. i'd say get yourself some 180 degree t-stats for both trucks, unless you've done that already. that might help. other than that i have no idea since your rads are clean and everything else seem to be up to spec.

I have the whole Heatyh Kit including waterpump. My 2000 I pulled the rad for cleanup last fall just before a tow and flushed entire cooling system and converted to lifetime antifreeze. Both trucks have lifetime with 2 bots of waterwetter.

 

[Acesneights1]

Sumthin ain't rite, did you clean ac condenser so you are getting good flow to rad, you also said repaced rad, GM rad or aftermarket rad?

Bill H read me the riot act last fall for not actually pulling the cores out of the truck so yes grille off rad out and coolers removed and powerwashed. The rad is aftermarket but it did this with the factory one as well and that one looked clean. As a matter of fact I sold it to a guy on the old site and he said it was perfect. I don't quite undertstand what you said about Map pis vs Turbo ? Where could there be a restriction ? I just last month had the whole intake off and swapped it to an F so I know everything in there is clean like new and the F upper is not restricted like my old S. I was hoping all that would solve some problems. I think the next experiment since I'm running out of ideas and the weather is still hot is to just remove the A/C condensor completly , put the grille back on and take the camper for a drive. If that cures it then a Mack "R" Model bumpermount a'c condesor with electric fans is going under the truck but after looking at the snapshot I'm wondering if the intercooler is my cure. I thought 260 IAT was way too hot also.