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Best bang for buck 6.5 cooling upgrades

After all the testing and documentation, isn't it generally understood that if your stock gauge reads 210, it's too late. There are pockets in the heads that have already gone into "the danger zone" and possibly are being damaged. Evans waterless coolant helps prevent the hot spots, but I've found it's a little impractical for me, and the cost doesn't help me at all. I had switched over back when I was making good money, but those days are long gone and any water in the system starts to negate the benefits. Do the things War Wagon says.

Our motors are, at best, compromises of cost savings and engineering.
 
Not enough can be said about the benefits of using Water Wetter along with good ol' green ethylene glycol anti-freeze to get a 10°-20°F drop in coolant temps. Cleaning the stack on a regular basis to maximize airflow and running a 97+ fan and w/p or D-Max fan and w/p to both increase coolant flow and airflow through the radiator.
 
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dangerousdave said:
After all the testing and documentation, isn't it generally understood that if your stock gauge reads 210, it's too late. There are pockets in the heads that have already gone into "the danger zone" and possibly are being damaged. Evans waterless coolant helps prevent the hot spots, but I've found it's a little impractical for me, and the cost doesn't help me at all. I had switched over back when I was making good money, but those days are long gone and any water in the system starts to negate the benefits. Do the things War Wagon says.

Our motors are, at best, compromises of cost savings and engineering.
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IMO after use on the "not anywhere near stock" 2003 5.9 Cummins: the 6.5TD simply doesn't have enough room in the cooling system for the reduced BTU capability of the Evans. This would maybe change if you coated things to keep the heat out of the cooling system.

I forget I ran the 2 bottles of water wetter. (diesel systems are so big they need 2. Read the label as this dose may have changed.) I will have to pick some up for the new pickup now...
 
WarWagon said:
IMO after use on the "not anywhere near stock" 2003 5.9 Cummins: the 6.5TD simply doesn't have enough room in the cooling system for the reduced BTU capability of the Evans. This would maybe change if you coated things to keep the heat out of the cooling system.

I forget I ran the 2 bottles of water wetter. (diesel systems are so big they need 2. Read the label as this dose may have changed.) I will have to pick some up for the new pickup now...
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Im going to try some Water Wetter myself. As well as look at alignment of the radiator to the intercooler and sealing the fan shroud to the radiator better.
 
I agree, I've been using water wetter in my '67, the '70, and of course, my wife's '64. Can't remember which 1/4 mile champ swore by it, and distilled water, for his racers.

There's a lot of stuff I can't remember; that "brain damage" in my avatar tag is real. I even failed my class of TBI rehab (Traumatic Brain Injury)
 
On the water wetter for the 6.2/6.5 do NOT use the diesel water wetter. It has high nitrides and that is bad for idi diesel. Dont use water wetter with evans.

2 problems with evans- flammable so inside the cab heater is no bueno.
Letting the metal get to 230, the evans coolant can handle it hut the rings to cylinder wall clearance can not. So if you run evans- you still should keep engine temps down for this engine.
 
In the event i ever pick up another one, (wouldn't mind a SRW CC) i would not consider any cooling upgrade other than the electric clutch system that @ak diesel driver did. It works wonderful on my burb after pulling my hair trying to pull anything on a hot day.
 
Twisted Steel Performance said:
If you replace the radiator I offer 3 row aluminum units that I apply a ceramic thermal dispersant coating to to enable 33% more heat dissipation than bare aluminum..
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I have a 93 6.5 I have upgraded to 180+ gallons a minute water pump Duramax fan 180° thermostat single. What is the cost to replace the radiator the ceramic version. Thank you for any advice and help you may land respectfully harry
 
Sorry, I don't stock a unit for the 93, I must have overlooked the year of your truck.. I can coat one if you have it sent here if you decide to go that way.. I don't do copper/brass soldered radiators any longer..
 
Twisted Steel Performance said:
Sorry, I don't stock a unit for the 93, I must have overlooked the year of your truck.. I can coat one if you have it sent here if you decide to go that way.. I don't do copper/brass soldered radiators any longer..
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Thank you sir;
I have a aluminum radiator with the composite top and bottom is that worthwhile doing? I don’t have any obstructions in front of the existing radiator I have removed all of the condenser and all of the AC components from in front of the radiator it appears to be relatively new I just acquired the truck less than a year ago and I’ve tried to make all the necessary mods for the trip at hand.
Respectfully
Harry
 
Not unless it's new, the cleaning process gets costly with used parts, and the product that air cures is high as well, I don't stock it.. short answer would be no, it's not worth it..
 
If you've upgraded to the model year 2000+ Balanced Flow water pump with the spin on fan clutch (with lo-temp kick-in modification or Kennedy Diesel's lo-temp fan clutch) and a D-Max fan - you've basically gotten the maximum bang for the buck for cooling modifications - especially if you've removed/relocated the the A/C evaporator and the other coolers.
 
Husker6.5 said:
If you've upgraded to the model year 2000+ Balanced Flow water pump with the spin on fan clutch (with lo-temp kick-in modification or Kennedy Diesel's lo-temp fan clutch) and a D-Max fan - you've basically gotten the maximum bang for the buck for cooling modifications - especially if you've removed/relocated the the A/C evaporator and the other coolers.
Click to expand...
Pretty sure from his other posts he has the 97-99 style ho pump.
 
1993 chevrolet 2500 four said:
Thankyou I will purchase the Kennedy when I get her home
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You have another option. Kennedy’s clutch was the go to and is proven well.
But member ak diesel driver did a thread showing using an electro-viscous fan clutch and different fan. The clutch is controlled electrically with a controller like regular electric fans would use. With this set up you can adjust exactly where you are ant the fan to turn on at. Also you can use a trinary switch in the a/c and have it come on for that if you choose. You can also add a switch on the dash to make it come on while driving, like you are towing and about to go up a mountain, so turn it on before the heat starts soaking in.
The other huge advantage it has over Kennedy’s or any other clutch for it is 100% lockup. Kennedy’s will do 85-88% when new. This 100% means fan is spinning exact speed of waterpump. Also he tested it a while after installing (a year iirc) and it was still at 100%!
 
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