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BD Quick Spool Valve Install with Pics

6.5L

6.5L

Old Iron Runner
Messages
1,177
Reaction score
433
Location
Northwest Wyoming
I told you all that I would be doing some mods to me engine in the next few weeks. Well here is what was done. A BD Diesel Quick Spool Valve. The part was actually designed for a 5.9/6.7L Cummins. It was a T3-T4 mount. I had to start by drilling at ATT to a T4 flange. Install went pretty easy. You can see in the pics I ditched my AC Dryer, which was empty and nobody here charges R12 anymore, although I here rumor of a guy that does, but too late now. I get by fine without it. Although, with a tiny bit of fabrication you could have kept the AC. The coolant overflow tank HAD to go though. I bought a new overflow tan, which can be had at the local O-Rielly's autoparts for like $15 and mounted it above the intake, which was the only place there was room left. Downpipe also had to be extended straight down about 3 inches.

I had to fab my AFE Stage II intake slightly to get a perfect fit. All in all, install was actually remarkably easy. I got it done in about a day and a half, granted yo have the right tools. You can see some of the other mods I did in the picture. As far as performance goes, this thing is a BEAST!!!!! It works flawlessly. EGT's are down, instead of spooling at 2000rpm, it now spools at 1600rpm and builds boost faster and harder than before. Max I ever got was 13-14psi before. Now boost is up to 18psi and completely smoke free. The sound it makes too is indescribable. The closest I can come is hell trying to escape through my exhaust. I was turning heads on mainstreet with it.

The whole setup almost looks factory if you didn't know better. We took our time and made sure everything was perfect, and for all those who said that it wouldn't work on a V8, not trying to be a dick, but you stand corrected. Here are some pics of the install. I couldn't be happier. Cost of the valve was $700 and parts for fabrication was about $50. Enjoy!!!

Downpipe.jpg

Final.jpg
 
I'm not sure if I understand fully but is that an external waste gate? How does it work?

When will you be dynoing it?

Do you have a link for this part?
 
No. It is not an external wastegate. It is kind of hard to explain but what it does is block off the large port of the dual scroll housing of the ATT, funneling all the exhaust pressure to the small side, thus creating faster/lower rpm spooling. As boost pressure rises, it acts on a pressure valve (gold canister) that pushes the valve open, allowing gas to pass through both sides of the housing, essentially creating a mechanical controlled VGT out of the A-Team Turbo. I am not sure we can post links here, but just go to google and look up "BD Diverter Valve". It should give you an idea of what I am talking about. I have now exceptional bottom end power and top end power once the valve opens. and I have no idea if I will be hitting the dyno anytime soon
 
Was it worth the $600? By the sounds of things it really improved the att performance!

I would love to see some dyno results with this upgrade, im willing to bet it boosted you very close to that 300hp range

Doesnt the att already start as a t4 flange? Should have made it easy to convert back no?

Does it act anything like an exhaust brake when you let off the throttle? I would imagine it slows exhaust flow once the throttle releases and the valve closes again?

Any more mods in mind? Perhaps in the fuel delivery department? Thanks for sharing. Any chance you can post up a video?
 
The ATT is a T4 turbo drilled to T3 specs. However it has enough excess metal to convert back to T4 just fine. It does help as a engine brake. I did notice that. It was more than worth the money. The ATT is a whole new beast now. And i will try to get a video up sometime. My internet blows
 
Good to see this!

I seriously doubt it will make more "peak" power. However, it will definitely move the curve alot further to the left... which always makes for nicer driveability.

I like this move into uncharted territory! Keep up the good work!
 
If you like it that is all that matters but it sounds like you have a lot of money invested in a setup that works like a turbo with a smaller housing and a waste gate set to 18 lbs
 
your close. It spools hard then by 18psi the valve is open all the way so i have full force. At this point im just out of fuel to keep going. So i have a lot of money invested in a setup thats a large turbo with amazing down low responce and fantastic high end pulling power. Not wastegated. Just out of fuel
 
Using a GMx with the WG tied up would get a similar response, but with a whole lot of negatives... lower airflow, higher EGTs, less O2/density, higher pressures for performance, more backpressure, etc.

Looks to me like you're trying to reap the benefits of both a smaller turbo and a bigger turbo... the whole idea behind VVT, yet in a very different way.

I like the way you think - and I'm really interested in some pics/data.
 
:chairfall: Got your cake and eating it too!
That is what I like about this place. New ideas and pushing the limits with the new ideas.

The out of fuel issue is solved easy at first.

Time for the track...
 
Who said it wouldn't work?

The ricer crowd has been using these for a while to improve low response on large dual volute turbochargers with small displacement engines for a while.

Turbocharger v8 gassers are a bit more uncommon, but they're out there.

Even the diesel crowd is in on it, couple Cummins running around with them.

I see no reason why it wouldn't be effective on a 6.5 given your combination of parts.

Common manifold opening on the stock 6.5 manifold, dual volute on an ATT.

Just what you need to make it work.

Heck, you can even make your own if you've got some basic skills. There's a thread on a fairly popular Cummins forum where a gent built one for right around 200 bucks.

Grab yourself a t3-t4 adapter plate and you can build on from that pretty easy peasy.

To the OP; I'm not trying to knock on you, respect for trying it on a 6.5. I'm just trying to pass on additional info...
 
Here's something I've been watching on one of the ricer boards:

Picture007-3.jpg


Same idea but in a cleaner package.

Obviously, the work in the pict is a bit......"raw".....fairly typical of a ricer board. But they're great for initial trial of concept and wasting their money instead of yours.

;)

No results have been posted as of yet, but it's the same concept.

My initial thoughts were a larger dissimilar dual volute turbo (restricting the larger side at low rpm) and reuse the OEM vac control to control the diverter valve, giving infinite fine tuning over the valve. Tweaking the tables make the vac system very versatile.

Another option would be to boost reference it to a spring pot like the BD unit and several others out there. You can then use a bleed valve to adjust the response for fine tuning, similar to the way you can trick OEM boost referenced pots in to making more boost. Or a few more dollars will get you an adjustable pot. Your choice....

The new(er) BW EFR turbo's are built with dissimilar sized volutes to improve transient response, which is one of the reasons I'm looking at them as a replacement, regards of price. A diverter valve kind of allows an "older tech" unit to mimic this characteristic.

You would have to be cautious with the flange thickness though. If there's not enough "meat" in the flange you could end up cracking it under running conditions...

Just one of the ideas I've been bopping around lately.......
 
lol I asked about this a year ago and evrybody said it wouldnt work. But it turns out they were wrong! Props to you for trying something different. Did you make any vids yet?
 
Very Very interesting, You got what it takes (innovation) guess that dual scroll is worth something.I would have never thought of that. LOL sweeet nice fab work and nice job. I think you started a whole new angle to turbos.!
 
I will try to get a video up soon but my internet is basicly dial up without the connection so it does take a while to get video's uploaded and I am swapped at work this week but I will try. I would love to share it with you guys. It is a BEAST now!!! I will try to keep you guys updated as best of possible bu with 12 hours days coming up, I am gonna be a bit tight on time. And I HIGHLY recommend the BD unit. it is a very tight, beautifully made product that I doubt will EVER fail. everything is quality built and they thought of everything, including metal expansion. Once you get it in person, you can see how tight and firm the actual product really is. I know it is hard for some but it takes money to play hard, and thankfully the situation Im in now allows such use of money. I cannot describe the advancement this made with the ATT. Low end torque is up ten fold. I am in love. It now makes the 3rd to 4th RPM drop obsolete. I cannot wait to hook a trailer to it. All I have now is a video on my phone of it spooling. I would love to see how it reacts to an automatic. Any takers? haha
 
I think it would be great in a automatic but I think it really would help the guys with manuals with the far RPM drop from 3rd to 4th when towing. It also really helps me having the extra boost seeing that I live at 5200ft above sea level, air gets a little thin around here.
 
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