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Bad Injector ?

Well you'd like to think that you stand more chance with a genuine AC Delco then aftermarket.
newgmparts.com has them for $440 the set including the shipping, so far everything that I have ordered from them has been genuine GM. Go with Heath and you'll spend $607 including shipping, just pondering if that extra $160 is worth it for the no BS backup that you'll get with them and the return line set.

On another note what's with the freaking handling charge that everybody seems to be jumping on nowadays come on give me a break that should be just part of the fact of doing business for goodness sake.

Kenny do you not have a spare set lying around that you could take to a local rebuild shop?

Cheers
Nobby
 
Chatted a bit with the guy from local inj shop and he suggested that car code may be killing the 8th cyl in the firing order and not #8cyl. Interesting. It fits. Anybody know the firing order on a 6.5td ?
 
Oh god let me have a break...#3 is an easy one to get to. This will be interesting although I am not optimistic because:
A) Noise sounds like the pass side of motor
B)Good things don't happen to me:suicide:
 
who knows what carcode is shutting off. I'm gonna have to pull them all and have them tested. The truck smokes and shakes raw fuel for abot 30 seconds when started after sitting. If I start my Burb at the same time , no smoke so it's not cold enough. It's loud too the engine.KNocky sounding. It sounds better since I cut the tdco to -1.06 from -1.50.
It's all TD's fault...:D
He guilted me into changing the injs when I had the ex manifolds off. It ran good before I fixed it..:suicide:
Honestly though this is getting to be BS with shit INjs on the market and although I knw Bill's would be good 600$ is just too much money to dump into it especially when I'm not even sure that is what's wrong.
 
pretty sure car code is shutting off #8 like it says. I've been under the hood when the test was intiated and it sure sounded like #8 stopped working. Same with the others, sounded like the right inj was being inhibited (clack clack noise not present in right area). I didn't "stetheocope" it, but my ear was pretty close to each...
 
great white said:
pretty sure car code is shutting off #8 like it says. I've been under the hood when the test was intiated and it sure sounded like #8 stopped working. Same with the others, sounded like the right inj was being inhibited (clack clack noise not present in right area). I didn't "stetheocope" it, but my ear was pretty close to each...
Click to expand...
your real name ain't Spock, ain't it?
 
Hey

Im Back.
I agree, this sounds like a bad squirt for sure.

I would take the time to rip the heat shield off the Pass side so you can get in there to do the manual old fashioned way of loosening the lines.

MGW
 
If I have to pull the turbo, then they are all coming out to be tested and the noise is coming from the turbo side of the motor. I will probably pull them next weekend.
 
Now I'm really scratching the old noodle. it was 20f last night and the CUCV smokes out the yard . I start the Dually thinking..this is gonna be ugly...
NO SMOKE AT ALL. It started right up and ran fine other than a little loud(normal).
WTF ???
 
Sounds like the Dually's ECM and ECT sensor took up for the cold and let the glows run longer. If this is true then your smoke issue could be a less than healthy glowplug, or a combo of a slightly leaking injector and a glow that takes longer to get to full temp. More "on" time, the glow gets to full temp and the engine fires off fine.

Sounds like the CUCV needs a glowplug override if it's smokin that bad. My 6.2 doesn't seem smart enough to let the glows run longer in colder temps, but i've never timed it either. I know if i give it 10 extra seconds and a bit over fast idle on the pedal it fires right off with a few coughs of smoke then no smoke at all.
 
check that ect with carcode see how closely it matches the existing air temps. Bill heathe had me lay a thermometer on the engine with the hood closed and check the temp on it just before starting.
 
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