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Bad Injector ?

A

Acesneights1

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My dually is smoking like a sick whore in the mornings now that it got a little colder(raw fuel smoke) . It clears up but the engine has a slight fuel knocking sound at idle when it warms up. I just replaced the injs with remans back in May. I somehow got carcode to do a cyl kill(although I don't know how I got in and could not do it again) but I killed the cyls one by one and when I killed #8 the noise went away so I'm thinkin I got a bad nozzle.
What a huge PIA Carcode is. It worked but I have no idea how I did it nor was I able to replicate it again.
 
Well, from memory of the last time I did it with Car Code:

1. Connect to the vehicle.

2. Select '02 L65.

3. Select "Test" tab.

4. Select "Enhance" from menu bar

5. Activate Cyl kill from menu as required.

If it doesn't work then :dunno:

Works for my 1998 L65.

:)

I gotta admit though, Car Code is not exactly what I would call "user freindly"......

:(
 
Tha is exactly right GW but one step missing. I figured it out ealier today when I had more time. When in test>Enhanced you need to enable power train control mdule from the drop down. I still can't get the dashboard to work though but anyway I changed the #8 today and no difference. No power issues at all. Truck pulls very well. TDCO was at -1.50 so I cut it back to -1.06 and it sounded a little happier. IDK what else other than that cyl is screwed in the IP. it's not real loud. In fact Iamdave was at my house and heard it and said his truck sounds the same way. The IP is a reman. It smokes an awful lot and runs like crap when cold for a few seconds. My burb started in same ambient temps and no smoke and smooth. Glows are new Duratherms purchased from Heath. it starts right up, just smokes alot and runs rough for about 30 seconds or so.
 
Every now and again you just have to realize it is a diesel :)

Mine does the same thing, however I never replaced the PS glows and my glow plug controller/solonoid at the back of the engine looks like it could really benefit from a thorogh dremel cleaning, but it works, starts fast, smokes a touch for a few seconds then smooths out.

I'm still at -1.94. If i ever find need to bring my scanner out again I'll probably drop it down to -1.50 for the winter.
 
I hope for you it aint a rod knock with all the luck you seem to have.
Bad nozzle is your best bet.

If that don't solve it.

I don't think its the IP causing that knock.The IP uses the same plungers for all 8 cyl.

Having said that,there is however a delivery valve in every inj line connector at the roter head.
If you look back at my tread on the IP rebuild,I think there is an exploded view of that valve.
Might be you got a broke spring in there.
 
Could that be changed without removing or recalibrating the IP or is the delivery valve where the fuel is calibrated ? I changed the Nozzle. No difference. The Burb does not sound the same. It's not a rod knock. Had enough of those in my lifetime to know besides the truck has sounded this way since I got it and I did alot of towing this summer so if it was a rod it would be through the side of the block by me thinks. Cutting the TDCO back a little seems to help.
 
It had a stored(I think) 1214 code but the Mil light was not on. I could not figure out how to clear codes with Carcode but when I checked it again later it was gone. I am beginning to wonder if carcode is setting the timing accuratly. When I commanded tdc relearn I saw the tdco go to -2.46 but when I stopped the relearn it settled to -1.06 and has been there since..WTF ? Maybe I should run this thing over to the stealer and let them throw a tech2 on it.
 
About how far can you throw the computer? That is how far you can trust them.

I would loosen the nut on the #8 injector and be sure that cylinder is causing the noise. It may be a different cylinder. My 1995 computer was extremely inaccurate at predicting the dead hole in my engine. It named several instead of just the one with the shattered piston... Just saying.

Do you know how good the replacement injector is? Nozzles vary in quality and life expectancy I hear.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Could that be changed without removing or recalibrating the IP or is the delivery valve where the fuel is calibrated ? I changed the Nozzle. No difference. The Burb does not sound the same. It's not a rod knock. Had enough of those in my lifetime to know besides the truck has sounded this way since I got it and I did alot of towing this summer so if it was a rod it would be through the side of the block by me thinks. Cutting the TDCO back a little seems to help.
Click to expand...
nope,no calibrating needed,take the line off ,unscrew the allen ring nut,use a small magnet and pull the stuff out of there,be carefull not to loose any(its small stuff)There is one little tiny spring right under the nut and another one behind the little thingemedjingy that comes next ,the valve is last in line,that one should fall in place by its own weight(pretty hard to do on the truck unless you hang it up by the hitch clear of the ground:D)

You got nothing to loose,may as well try it.
 
With carcode once you get the desired reading turn the truck off, and unhook everything. Thats what I do.

Tim double checked carcode with his scanner at it matched fine.

Carcode is fully functional, just give yourself some time to figure it out. Don't doubt it, it works.
 
I can't get the dashboard to work on carcode. Also The cyl kill works but yeah, warwagon, maybe it's not killing #8. It sure seems like a bad squirt but the problem with doing to the old school way is you can't get to the lines in the turbo side. The nozzle I used was a reman from NAPA. It made absolutley no difference. When the truck sits over night it smokes like a sick whore on a pisspot and feels like a cyl isn't firing for about 60 seconds then finally clears up but when it's good an warm you can hear a cyl knocking n the pass side(diesel knock, not rod). I'm going to try and have carcode hooked up and ready to kill tommorow morning and immediatly kill the #8 cyl and see if the smoke goes away faster. If that doesn't work I can go along with my stethescope on each cyl and try to figure out which one is knocking then use carcode to kill it. It's gotta be a squirt. I think Warwagon may be onto something. Maybe I am not killing cyl #8 even though carcode says it is.
 
Try this......... I had a very loud injector knock a mechanic told me to put one 8 oz bottle of FPPF fuel power and a 16 oz bottle of stanadyne then fill the tank and go for a long drive. Well it worked I didn't think it would but figured it was worth $15 bucks to try. I had the same symptoms as you. Mine would also idle smooth then rough like it had a miss. Smoke and shudder in the mornings like it was dieing then once it got a little warm it was better. Had a very noticeable "diesel knock" which is a clogged or bad injector either not firing or firing under a very low psi but anyway try it I didn't believe it either until it worked!
 
FPPF another range of fuel additives. Fuel Power is equivalent to the stanadyne performance formula, so you'd be in effect giving a high dose of two competing products to try and take care of a gummed up injector if that is the problem.

Could do no harm and may do it I suppose.

You know more and more this whole reman business is getting out of hand, we have the other thread about a leaky reman injector. Seems to me that rebuilds at a lower price are simply an injector taken apart new nozzle installed and that's it. Throw in the chance of knock off or Indian nozzles and what chance do you have. I mean even if I was cutthroat on my time I do not believe that I could rebuild them properly for some of the prices that I am seeing. So far the reman shop that I use does a good job no client come backs so far, but if push comes to shove I'll just have to start doing it myself. Not like I do not have all the equipment anyways, I already rebuild larger older injectors. I have a Heath set here under my desk waiting to fix my long in the tooth installed set, I'll be interested to see how they make out.

As to the cylinder kill, well I have not tried it on my AE yet now that I have found it. As I understand it this is a feature available to later models that we request and fool the PCM into doing but how can we be sure that it is in fact killing the right injector appropiately. I have learned of late that for my truck there is some OBD1 mixed in there, this makes me more suspicious of the commands that are not year appropriate achieving the desired effect.

Cheers
Nobby
 
Acesneights1 said:
fppf ?
Click to expand...
Yea that's the company that makes it they are the same company that makes polar power and truck and rv. It is some good sh*t! I think one of there products came in 3rd on the lubricity additive study. Most pilot stations have it or check with an auto parts store got mine at O'riellys if you have one where you live.
 
nobby said:
FPPF another range of fuel additives. Fuel Power is equivalent to the stanadyne performance formula, so you'd be in effect giving a high dose of two competing products to try and take care of a gummed up injector if that is the problem.

Could do no harm and may do it I suppose.

You know more and more this whole reman business is getting out of hand, we have the other thread about a leaky reman injector. Seems to me that rebuilds at a lower price are simply an injector taken apart new nozzle installed and that's it. Throw in the chance of knock off or Indian nozzles and what chance do you have. I mean even if I was cutthroat on my time I do not believe that I could rebuild them properly for some of the prices that I am seeing. So far the reman shop that I use does a good job no client come backs so far, but if push comes to shove I'll just have to start doing it myself. Not like I do not have all the equipment anyways, I already rebuild larger older injectors. I have a Heath set here under my desk waiting to fix my long in the tooth installed set, I'll be interested to see how they make out.

As to the cylinder kill, well I have not tried it on my AE yet now that I have found it. As I understand it this is a feature available to later models that we request and fool the PCM into doing but how can we be sure that it is in fact killing the right injector appropiately. I have learned of late that for my truck there is some OBD1 mixed in there, this makes me more suspicious of the commands that are not year appropriate achieving the desired effect.

Cheers
Nobby
Click to expand...
You are 100% right on that one,taking an injector apart,clean it,lap ,assemble it,test it and then setting it to the proper pop press which requares dis assembly again and installing a diff shim(often more than once to get it right)can not be done for the prices quoted.
 
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