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Attempting to fire a 6.5 that has been sitting

I'll probably just put the block heater in. Truthfully, it needs done, anyhow.

What is the bonding material used to install a heat sink? There is supposed to be a heat sink somewhere in the truck from when he bought the PMD and harness.
 
PMD should of come with a heat transfer pad. If not use heat transfer paste.

Also, I have a few sets of 60g in stock $74 shipped in USA.
 
http://www.radioshack.com/arctic-si...compound/2801098.html#q=arctic+silver&start=1

http://www.radioshack.com/arctic-si...compound/2801099.html#q=arctic+silver&start=4
Which one?

I found the heat sink for the PMD kit in the truck. It's the blue heat sink sold on Ebay. Do I use this arctic silver right on the back of the PMD and stick it on the heat sink, or is there supposed to be some sort of heat transfer pad, as well? The kits I see for sale look like they have some sort of pad that comes with it.
 
SnowDrift said:
http://www.radioshack.com/arctic-silver-ceramique-thermal-compound/2801098.html#q=arctic+silver&start=1

http://www.radioshack.com/arctic-silver-silver-5-thermal-compound/2801099.html#q=arctic+silver&start=4
Which one?

I found the heat sink for the PMD kit in the truck. It's the blue heat sink sold on Ebay. Do I use this arctic silver right on the back of the PMD and stick it on the heat sink, or is there supposed to be some sort of heat transfer pad, as well? The kits I see for sale look like they have some sort of pad that comes with it.
Click to expand...
They're about as good as a piece of carton.
I would get a Kennedy or SS sink
 
I would say if it is this one its too small.

The bigger Pensacola one on ebay looks about as small as should be installed.

Almost can't be too big within reason.

Most don't like the mount above the intake as heat rises. I would say at least on the fender or better is out of the engine compartment.
 

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That looks like it. If we're talking physical size, then it appears to be about the same size as the one Leroy sells. It appears his has more fins, though, so it has more surface area exposed to the atmosphere.
 
Its a combination of size, surface area, air flow, and ambient temperature (plus material heat conductivity etc).

I have never seen any thermodynamic heat dissipation calculation/estimates. Or even better data to support a model holds a specified temperature.

Its been 25 years ago since I took heat transfer classes and thermodynamics. Therefore, I am only dangerously educated and know the basics. I am no expert. OK, you got me somewhat its my gut feel that the blue one pictured is not big enough on top of the intake. Might be ok in front bumper. Might work on intake but....

I went with Kennedy's method of mounting on the fender a long time ago. I think Heath also had a good idea with big plate underneath but think its overkill. I have never liked the smallish intake mounted coolers.
 
Last edited:
I bought Heath's about 10 years ago, or so (maybe longer) and it's still in place and fully functional today. I'm not planning to mount this one on the intake, but would move it someplace else in the long run. For the purpose of starting the truck to see if even runs, I think it would be fine. I'll keep my hand available to see how warm it gets, and will report back.

Again, though, I'm just wanting to start the engine, not drive to the west coast.
 
One thing that keeps going through my mind: I understand the aluminum is much cheaper, but copper works SOOO much better.

Back in the day when I was cool, car stereo amps all had to have heat sinks and overheating them was a
Problem in competition. One of the ways we got an advantage was swapping out the aluminum for copper.

Later when I was working on these trucks in fleets I was moving the pmd into the cab of the truck and mounting is to a copper heat sink. My failure point was always the harness ( I hate soldering), put pmd was happy. I guess for you all playing with salt and high moisture that might not work so well though- corrosion, oxidation, blah blah.
Just a flashback from my overzealousness, back to your normal thinking of what lasts long term.
 
PMD 101

Anysize heatsink inside the engine bay is not big enough. The air temps anywhere in engine bay are to hot. The coolest spot in the engine bay is right where Stanadyne put PMDs (on the IP). Once the surounding air is up to temp the PMD is not going to shed anymore heat. The heat sink act like a heat sponge at that point and since it conducts much better than the plastic and electrical componeints of the PMD the heat sink is then introducing heat to the PMD. IMO if you have an engine bay mounted PMD and it has lived for awhile there you just got lucky.

On the other hand a heat sink only as big as the PMD itself with 3/4" fins is capabile of sheding the heat a PMD makes IF! its outside the engine bay.

IMO its the huge temp swings that kill PMDs from engine bay mounted PMDs/heat sinks. Example: if you go from 0 degress F* up to close to 190F*-200F* in 10- to 15 minutes thats a huge temp swing. AND! you might do that several times a day. Whats happening inside the PMD is the solider joints expand and contract. Eventually they crack and might make contact for awhile until a certain temp is reached (the sweet spot) then the truck dies, stumbles, fish bites.....
I see more problems from colder climents than warm ones.

With PMD/heat sink outside engine bay you might still have a 0*F day but atleast the temp will stay a consistant 0*F. It may go down due to wind chill ??(im not sure about that though). The internals of the PMD are happier and live longer away from heat inducing temps and temp swings when mounted away from engine bay.

Does remote mounting outside engine bay 100% cure failing PMDs? NO! but the odds go way up when you do they will last longer.

So, as much as I hate to say it that blue chinese made heat sink will do the job if you get it outside the engine bay or like Snowdrift said as a temp solution for him.

Maybe this should be a thread of its own? Back on topic.
 
Yeez, this topic
Burning oil said:
PMD 101

Anysize heatsink inside the engine bay is not big enough. The air temps anywhere in engine bay are to hot. The coolest spot in the engine bay is right where Stanadyne put PMDs (on the IP). Once the surounding air is up to temp the PMD is not going to shed anymore heat. The heat sink act like a heat sponge at that point and since it conducts much better than the plastic and electrical componeints of the PMD the heat sink is then introducing heat to the PMD. IMO if you have an engine bay mounted PMD and it has lived for awhile there you just got lucky.

On the other hand a heat sink only as big as the PMD itself with 3/4" fins is capabile of sheding the heat a PMD makes IF! its outside the engine bay.

IMO its the huge temp swings that kill PMDs from engine bay mounted PMDs/heat sinks. Example: if you go from 0 degress F* up to close to 190F*-200F* in 10- to 15 minutes thats a huge temp swing. AND! you might do that several times a day. Whats happening inside the PMD is the solider joints expand and contract. Eventually they crack and might make contact for awhile until a certain temp is reached (the sweet spot) then the truck dies, stumbles, fish bites.....
I see more problems from colder climents than warm ones.

With PMD/heat sink outside engine bay you might still have a 0*F day but atleast the temp will stay a consistant 0*F. It may go down due to wind chill ??(im not sure about that though). The internals of the PMD are happier and live longer away from heat inducing temps and temp swings when mounted away from engine bay.

Does remote mounting outside engine bay 100% cure failing PMDs? NO! but the odds go way up when you do they will last longer.

So, as much as I hate to say it that blue chinese made heat sink will do the job if you get it outside the engine bay or like Snowdrift said as a temp solution for him.

Maybe this should be a thread of its own? Back on topic.
Click to expand...

Plenty threads on that already in the past.


I have to agree on the IP mounting spot,..problem having it there is/was insufficient fuel flow with cool fuel as the tank is drawn down(the less there is the hotter it gets) or non at all trough failed LP/OPS kills them just as fast as having a bad or no heat sink.
 
When applying the Arctic Silver, it doesn't dry, by the looks of it and it's not a glue. Do I run a bead of silicone around the edge once I have the PMD screwed to the heat sink to keep it from oozing out? By the instructions, there's quite a science to this - I thought I would just smear it all over the back side, fill in the grooves around the resistors, screw the PMD to the heat sink and be done. Is it that simple?
 
Yep That simple.

You can run the bead of sealant to help keep paste in and water out. Put sealant ontop of screw heads too.
 
I didn't, when I made my own cooler years ago with heat paste. I'm waiting for correct answer here as well. That PMD lasted 2 years. I always wondered about this process and if my theories were correct before I found this site. Good thread by the way.
 
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