• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Attempting to fire a 6.5 that has been sitting

SnowDrift

SnowDrift

Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
Messages
3,228
Reaction score
4,213
Location
Central Ohio map dot
This is my project truck - '95 k2500 Nv4500.

Ok, so I checked 3 glow plugs and all are working, so I didn't pull anymore, thinking it would probably fire on that many. I'm getting fuel to the injectors, and I just put on a new FFM (even though the old one was apparently not bad). I can smell a little exhaust and it's apparently building some oil pressure since the lift pump runs after cranking a while. Anything else I should be checking?

It has not fired yet, since I've been working on it the past few weeks. The PMD was new, according to the previous owner and is remote with an extension harness - not sure what vendor it came from. No heat sink at this time, but that wouldn't keep it from firing.

I'm open to suggestions if there are additional things to consider as to why it's not firing. I suspect the engine just needs to whip over faster and it may go. The batteries are pretty drawn down from trying, so far.
 
plug it in and get it nice and warm. I know on my plow truck the PO had flooded it and it wouldn't start so I disconnected the glows and very lightly misted it while my wife cranked it over. it started turning over faster and faster until it finally fired off. Talk about rolling coal I had a huge cloud blacksmoke, good thing the door was open. Started fine after that
 
Yep ether. The key to using it is having someone else crank it over so you can very lightly mist it and have it get sucked in. And yes again to the disconnecting the glows. I can't stress enough the ether needs to be a mist versus a spray. I even practise first to make sure I can control it.
 
Neither dad, nor myself are fans of ether, so this will be a last resort, but I will remember your suggestion if we get to that point.

No block heater. I have a new one on hand, but had hoped to not install it until I found out the truck would actually run.
 
I've seen and tried myself WD-40 a few times instead of ether. I think its suppose to be somewhat less volatile. Seemed to work pretty good. Spraying a lite mist while someone cranks it should be done with it also.
 
I found wd40 isn't what it used to be doesn't have any punch anymore, but check all glow plugs when i lose two I have a harder time starting, but check fuel got fuel? Open t valve, crack injectors, and then like ak diesel said use some ether but unplug glow plugs if you have space heater preheat engine, key to diesels is a fast spin to start, hot battery's hot engine hot oil these will all add into helping, nv45? Pull that bad boy she will fire drop it in third at 25 on paved road bam fire in the hole!
 
Fully charged batteries will give you your best shot of starting a winter temperature cold engine.
 
You can jump the LP so the OPS is not an issue, this is a 95 and I am assuming it does not have a relay mod.

Crank it like that. It has to build pressure both in fuel system and engine.

You can also take the GP out and crank it till there is fume out of the GP hole.
Put back the GP and crank again.

No ether required this way.
 
JMJNet has the right idea here on an old sitting engine of pulling the plugs along with the block heater that AK mentioned. If you want to go the extra mile, pull the oil pump drive and spin it up some oil pressure before you go since all that is on those bearings is condensation after sitting a long time...
 
SnowDrift said:
This is my project truck - '95 k2500 Nv4500.

Ok, so I checked 3 glow plugs and all are working, so I didn't pull anymore, thinking it would probably fire on that many. I'm getting fuel to the injectors, and I just put on a new FFM (even though the old one was apparently not bad). I can smell a little exhaust and it's apparently building some oil pressure since the lift pump runs after cranking a while. Anything else I should be checking?

It has not fired yet, since I've been working on it the past few weeks. The PMD was new, according to the previous owner and is remote with an extension harness - not sure what vendor it came from. No heat sink at this time, but that wouldn't keep it from firing.

I'm open to suggestions if there are additional things to consider as to why it's not firing. I suspect the engine just needs to whip over faster and it may go. The batteries are pretty drawn down from trying, so far.
Click to expand...
Maybe that PMD is already history.
I have routinely some of my trucks sitting 6-7 months over the winter,...i never had one not firing right up.
 
I don't think there is anything you can do to an electronic pump to help it start other than Ether or other huffer. The ECM /PMD or FSD controls everything. I have a Briggs and Stratton small engine starting aid with top cylinder lube that is not quite as harsh as Ether. But its not as good as Ether starting fluid for a hard starting engine. I guess its for first crank of season to help wet the upper cylinder.

40F is pretty cold for Diesel to start unless good compression designed for it. My old Ford tractor won't start below 60F without Ether. It will kill the battery. Above 70F it starts ok with a decent battery.
 
Got to make sure ALL GPs are working. Ive had engines that would not start on 100* days unless you put some glow time to it. What brand/type GPs are in it? if self regulating you can jumper the big lugs on GP relay to extend the GP heating. Maybe to 10 addition seconds max and have someone waiting to crank the engine. That way its the hotest it can be. I've done it myself and by the time you walk around to cab to start the GPs have cooled.
 
SnowDrift said:
The PMD was new, according to the previous owner and is remote with an extension harness - not sure what vendor it came from. No heat sink at this time, but that wouldn't keep it from firing.
Click to expand...

:rolleyes: Why does a known sensitive to heat electronic part get a free pass? It doesn't have a heat sink. At some point it gets hot and quits- likely happened in the past. So new or not sadly it got fried and is likely your issue. Not to pick a fight, but, I feel I am pointing out the obvious crispy southern deep fried PMD. Mount another PMD to a heat sink and try again - and if that doesn't work check the suspect China extension harness. Link to voltages etc to make sure the electronics, PMD, are working. I assume you have a SES light on key on saying the ECM is powered?

You don't need starting aids. If you do - well don't bother and fix it now without using them. Otherwise disable the glow plugs or the starting aid will likely permanently do it for you with a possible side effect of large glow plug debris in the engine.
 
Thanks, Leroy, I'll keep that in mind, for sure on the time and will be cautious on run time. Once it's started, we'll shut it down soon. New PMD never ran the engine, so I don't suspect it yet. Yet.

I may take mine off my good truck, since I know it's functional and is sitting on a big heat sink.

To your point, WarWagon, I'm not a fan of ether, so I am guessing that won't be something I'll be using. Haven't checked the SES light, since I've never been the one in the seat - I've always been hanging over the engine, looking for a fuel leak, but I'll note this. Thanks!

Can't recall the P/N. Does 60G sound right? That seems to stick in my head.
 
I wouldn't run the PMD w/o a heat sink. If you have to drop it in a can/bucket of water to keep it cool. Electronics esp. power transistors can quickly thermally run away and let the magic smoke out or sustain damage that shows up later.
 
Find a torpedo style diesel heater get a piece of round ductwork that will fit over the snout also get an adjustable 90 to put on the end to direct the airflow. Get that engine up to temp. Just make sure you don't bake some wiring and such.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top