NVW
Well-Known Member
I don't believe our trucks have an O2 sensor. Leo
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at wits end
- Thread starter beerwolf
- Start date
buddy
Active Member
O2 sensors are probably the most replaced electrical part on gassers, I'd believe that as those little bastards are always blamed for poor fuel economy, misfires, backfires, poor performance in general, knock, pretty much any symptom a person complains about to a mechanic engine related. And on most late 90s and newer there are two of them, so repair shops can make twice as much 
You guys remember that line on Tommy Boy, something about slapping a warranty on a turd in a box.........not that Heaths is a turd, just made me think of it. Does Heath do something to weatherize it and it comes all put together?
You guys remember that line on Tommy Boy, something about slapping a warranty on a turd in a box.........not that Heaths is a turd, just made me think of it. Does Heath do something to weatherize it and it comes all put together?
vail426
Member
Hell- the price is excellent! If I ever need another harness, Leroy will be the guy.
Turbine Doc
Just Another Diesel Guy
Well when it comes to warranties not only is Heath's the best in the business, here is the kicker, you probably won't need it, remote kit on my burb is entering it's 3rd year of unblemished service, and one on my truck truck is going into 5th problem free year, which is just about as long SSD has been selling theirs, which if you don't mount how they want (remove a critical gnd from it's proper location) it mounted & where they wanted (underhood on intake) is only good for 1yr and destined to fail again mounted underhood.
The one SSD copied theirs from is a DSG/Beta one which failed on mine multiple times, (as detailed here http://www.dieseltowingresource.com/showthread.php?t=6573) and common theme of many using that style of remote under hood solution; actually I don't have a number of incidents but just short of all posters on every forum excepts SSD's blog posters express regret & frustration with SSD's turd in a box with a bad warranty, or any underhood mounting solutions for that matter. This is not opinion it is bolstered by my own vehicle experience, and reading hundreds maybe thousands of posters over the years reporting recently replaced underhood solutions failing again, and ret remote mounting out of the engine bay with a NEW driver we never hear from them again on the FSD, if the choose to reuse an old driver it becomes matter of when & not if we hear from them again, once cooked partially or fully underhoood relaibility is compromised period, TD didn't say it, the data shows it.
As for waterproofing, yes it comes sealed at the driver to plate joint with thermally conductive epoxy, & at driver electrical connection it uses the same weather pack sealed connectors used elsewhere on the truck, it was run submerged in bucket of water in field trials before going to market with it, at least that is what Bill's team says was their test program, before mounting to back of my Buckstop, mine was bolted to front of my GM bumper until 2007 when I got , snow . water, ice, single digit to 3 digit temps, so no dount in my mind it is quality enough to do as advertised. IIRC I think Bill once told me the original one built in 94 is still running but Bill would have to weigh in on that one to see if I got that right.
One thing I could see as an improvement is a more professional looking connector between the factory harness, and the remote's extension harness, one on my burb is sealed with heat shrink per instructions, one on the truck has never been sealed as I like access to the pins to read functions of triggering the fuel solenoid from time to time with an O scope or a DVM, so I need access to the pins..
FYI guys any questions you have on a Heath product easily answered by phone call to them or www.heathdiesel.com you get real service not, the "email us and we will think about calling you back service" of some vendors, also Heath as a site sponsor has his own Q&A vendors section below the main forums, and what I know of Bill I'd be willing to bet if you have a kit that fails after the 7 yr warranty if you ask him real nice, he probably would cut you a break on the out of warranty replacement, and nobody I know that sells 6.5 stuff would ever consider that as a possibility, that is why I'm a Heath guy all the way,
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JMJNet
Recruit
No O2 sensor. That is gasser, my Camry has 2 O2 sensors. They are still good after almost 160K.
The objective of diesel it to produces Nitrogen and Oxide. Just kidding.
Turbine Doc
Just Another Diesel Guy
Mudbath
Old Smoky
Tookie
Member
His price is competitive, and I would probably have used him had I needed
just a cable, but I needed a PMD too, and didn't want the hassle of buying
from 2 different vendors - if I had, I can imagine them both saying
"my parts not bad, the other part is" - I avoided that trouble, and I'm glad I did,
since the cable was bad.
And if we get good service from ANYBODY, we should be able to tell others
about it, or we'll end up like the other forum.
(Maybe we could have a section for this?)
Leroy, you should consider selling PMDs, most people that relocate are
needing one and would like a single source. The D-techs are ultra cheap.
Turbine Doc
Just Another Diesel Guy
4.3 Diesel ???? or gasser
beerwolf
New Member
I put my original PMD in and it started,ran for 15 mi and quit,very hot. E*** Pmd works, Pmd with used IP works.
Old IP turns about 40 Degrees and jams,maybe let go???
ext cable 4 of 6 pins dont work
took truck for a spin, lots of black smoke
codes 18, 32, 33
I need to have the timing set (18?)
Old IP turns about 40 Degrees and jams,maybe let go???
ext cable 4 of 6 pins dont work
took truck for a spin, lots of black smoke
codes 18, 32, 33
I need to have the timing set (18?)
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Black smoke usually turbo related issue. Perhaps a vacuum line got disturbed?
- Staff
- #32
Yeah, I agree - you and I have had that chat before, too. It's much nicer when you can get it all in one place, for exatly that reason.
Tookie said:
Trust me; this place will NEVER censor stuff like the other place is doing. You will note that I didn't delete mention of EDAM or edit posts with EDAM in them, or put EDAM in the swear-word filter or do anything else bad to EDAM.
- get the picture? However, I have been doing this a long time, like TD, and have read hundreds of posts from people who bought (advertised as used, but tested good) PMDs from EDAM and then had issues. I would be remiss if I did not point this out every so often; if EDAMs PMDs were performing flawlessly, I would be pointing that out, too.
But they aren't, and it bothers me when another one of my 6.5 brothers buys one and it dies like so many others have. Same problem with SSDiesel's FSD solution.
I understand people spent less on them than they would have on a Heath; I have no issue with that. However, they need to also expect less FROM them than they would of a Heath part.
Tookie said:
Good point, Leroy...
- Staff
- #33
Codes 32 and 33 are EGR codes - so yeah, you have a vacuum issue. Start tracing lines with a vacuum gauge - should have 18-22" all over the place.
beerwolf
New Member
I just replaced the lines and the soleniod, because I had that problem before,also changed the egr soleniods too. I dont think I hear thre turbo wind up like it used to.
Mudbath
Old Smoky
gasser
- Staff
- #36
Well, you have a vacuum issue. Check your hose routing, check for vacuum at the pump and at all inlets, then at the WG actuator.
buddy
Active Member
Can you be very clear about exactly the seires of steps from the get go when it died and where the PMD was located at each time and which of 3 PMDs or 2 IPs you were using. I cant get a clear chronology of events to understand what your issue might be or was.
How do you know the old IP jams?
Did you install the IP yourself?
Used IP's will do that after sitting for awhile, 'specially thru cold weather events - go ahead and rock the shaft backards'n'for'ards a bit - it'll break free, no harm done - prolly needs to be sent for testing\recal, anyway
Any FSD module will overheat in open air in a few short mins if not mounted to sufficient heatsink area - will do so even if mounted to a small heatsink, no forced air-over - FSD drivers (there's two of 'em, indicative of hi-power requirement) supply very large amount of current to drive the FS within the allowed window, so must dissipate a lot of therms while doing that - fuel flowing thru the IP mass is really good cooler for the PMD module - prollem being, the tremendous therms available just after engine is turned off, reverse-soaking back into the IP, fuel, and PMD, affectionatly termed "heat-soak" - that's the killer, and the longer the PMD\FSD runs at elevated therms (hi-heat), the shorter the life - 'nuther words, you could damage an FSD while testing it, un-'sinked
Word up, dudes....................
FYI - pop the black plastic covers off the driver transistors 'n'pitch 'em, not required - then back the four nuts off till they're finger-loose - run them back down finger-tite, which is as tite as you can get them using your bare fingers - then, with a 1/4" nut-driver, tighten each nut 1/4-turn more from finger-tite - that's the proper torque-setting to achieve correct tension for specified thermal and electrical conductivity - any more than that and you will damage the hermetic seals on the driver pins, or\and break the soldered electrical connection to the module PCB - most nuts are loose, having been loosened due to thermal expansion\contraction since the beginning of it's service life, with some being loose on new units due to production line deficiencies - good preventive maintenance technique to do the procedure yerself B4 installation, remembering the 1/4-turn more from finger-tite spec
Post-up how many of the four nuts you find loose on each of your three modules
Any FSD module will overheat in open air in a few short mins if not mounted to sufficient heatsink area - will do so even if mounted to a small heatsink, no forced air-over - FSD drivers (there's two of 'em, indicative of hi-power requirement) supply very large amount of current to drive the FS within the allowed window, so must dissipate a lot of therms while doing that - fuel flowing thru the IP mass is really good cooler for the PMD module - prollem being, the tremendous therms available just after engine is turned off, reverse-soaking back into the IP, fuel, and PMD, affectionatly termed "heat-soak" - that's the killer, and the longer the PMD\FSD runs at elevated therms (hi-heat), the shorter the life - 'nuther words, you could damage an FSD while testing it, un-'sinked
Word up, dudes....................
FYI - pop the black plastic covers off the driver transistors 'n'pitch 'em, not required - then back the four nuts off till they're finger-loose - run them back down finger-tite, which is as tite as you can get them using your bare fingers - then, with a 1/4" nut-driver, tighten each nut 1/4-turn more from finger-tite - that's the proper torque-setting to achieve correct tension for specified thermal and electrical conductivity - any more than that and you will damage the hermetic seals on the driver pins, or\and break the soldered electrical connection to the module PCB - most nuts are loose, having been loosened due to thermal expansion\contraction since the beginning of it's service life, with some being loose on new units due to production line deficiencies - good preventive maintenance technique to do the procedure yerself B4 installation, remembering the 1/4-turn more from finger-tite spec
Post-up how many of the four nuts you find loose on each of your three modules
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buddy
Active Member
I hope the PMD wasnt used without a heatsink, but these kind of details are what we're missing.