I dont know.
The clamp force applied by torque is what I am trying to learn.
all I can do is assume it is similar force applied by the comparison in the video.
Ours are 12mm bolts and newer engines use both 12mm and 10mm. This video is testing cummins head studs- what I found is also 12mm bolts. I do not know if the thread pitch of the nuts are the same or not 100% but I bel
I plan to replicate what they did in the video using a factory main cap bolt and tighten to spec. Record the number in hydraulic pressure then transpose to clamping force.
Then tighten the arp stud, recording hydraulic pressure as tightening torque increases. This will create a graph showing clamping force at intervals in relation to torque on the nut.
My goal is to know at what torque does the arp nut apply the same clamp force as the factory bolt for both 12mm and 10mm sizes. Added clamp force to the mains applies more stress to the block adding to the cracking problem. A certain amount of added clamp force is better to stop cap walk, but at the risk of cracking mains. Far more people loose 6.5s to cracked mains than cap walk issues.
Their test had ARP max at 152 torque, 2600psi so the math is 18,772 pounds clamp force
And the other brand max torque hit 150.5, 2800 psi so 20,036 pounds force.
Different lube, (possibly different thread pitch of nut), difference in stretch all attribute to different force applied. (Stock bolts for that application are from 13,000-16,000 btw from different source)
Someone better at math than me with more research could determine several ways to do this with more options and could use different sized cylinders and pressure gauges and pumps to do it with. I am horrible at researching the information. Outside you my best current hope is a mfr on ebay and amazon that sells chinese rams so I am awaiting a response on affected cylinder area of thier units to see if theirs will work with what pump and gauges I bought.
I am simply copying what they did in the video using a ram with 7.22 area. That is why I went to those two units. And with a center hole of 1.31” I can buy 1.25” cold round stock, drill and tap threads, weld to a plate of steel (preference of 1.5” or thicker but smaller should work).
With you having the cylinder my first thought was if you do the test if you work with them you have all the hydraulic components available. But if a fastner fails, or if the adapter to hold the fastener fails, that could injure you or someone around you and I can’t put my welding or an exposed fastener to risk someone else.
Knowing failure point of bolt & stud would be interesting, but a waste of time imo. I believe we have all seen cracked main webs. I have yet to see a bolt failure. It is possible they stretched allowing freeplay of the caps, then crank snap. In the racing world it happens, but is easily identified. When your block and or crank is broke and the bolts were still tight - it wasn’t bolt failure.
If I had a couple engine blocks I could ruin- that would be well worth it. Rip out some main studs and head studs- yeppers- that would prove some stuff too. So if anyone want to ship a block to me- haha. I WOULD NOT DO THAT WITH A BORROWED RAM. If I buy one I would. Or if I rent one from a local store that has insurance of damage insurance at affordable price- yup. It would be super amazing to do a red 6.2 and newer 6.2. Then a couple years of 6.5 and the optimizer.
I haven't seen them in person but with a already weak bottom end and shallow tread depth I can believe it.. if a person had the equipment and knowledge the depth of the holes could perhaps be drilled deeper and the threads extended without harming the threads that are already their. Yes it would be something a real machinist would be needed for but similar things are done often, cheap to have done... don't think so, worth the money, again doubtful, debatable at best.. 
