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Anyone run an oil bypass setup in a 6.5?

turbovanman

turbovanman

I has boost, :O)
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I put around 7500 km's on in 2 months or less, and I really don't like the "dirty oil" look of our diesels, so in doing some research, I can buy a Baldwin filter base for $40, Baldwin B50 filters for around $10 or less, some hoses and voila, done. I've seen the oil reports on diesel guys using the B50 filters and they are impressive. Amsoil filters are great but they are expensive plus you can usually find Baldwin filters locally.

Leroy mentioned this filter for our engines, Donaldson Endurance filter, anyone have a part number?

I was thinking of tee'ing the bypass return into the turbo drain, good as I have the scavenge pump setup on that. That pump has no pressure, just volume so that should give the pressure differential I need, thoughts?

Not sure if I'll do the oil reports, I'll check locally on cost but I'll probably just change my oil at 15K to be safe, still saving money.

One more thing, if I go the bypass route, do I have to run CJ4 rated oil? I can get any new diesel synthetic oil, IE VW specs, Dmax spec etc for $5 a litre-Motul, Pentosynth and others, vs paying $45 for Rotella 4L jug, :(
 
Or go the lazy route with Amsoil's dual remote system which was self contained and no need for creativity with hose routing other than to avoid chafing. Only thing I had to do on-top of the kit was buy an extra hose to put the housing under my 2'nd row seats. IIRC, the Amsoil dual remote system does not come with filters, so you are free to use any that will spin-on.

Might want to re-think the decision about analysis as that was what lead me to an engine replacement on *my* terms versus the fun of getting stranded ;)

Leroy, cool design and I love the valve to cut-off the flow when changing filters :thumbsup:
 
Thanks guys. Amsoils kits are too much plus you have to use their filters. I found a local store that sells the larger B164 for $10, then I'll buy a case online, price drops to $5.

Wicked price on the kit Leroy, but I don't want to use Amsoil filters, $40-$50 a filter, :(

Cat dealer will do an oil sample for $23, so I'll get my current brew tested, then add the bypass and see what happens, then I can change it out and start fresh.

What about the CJ oils? Can I use newer oils?

I could do the oil cap thing but my turbo return lines are right by where I am doing this, perfect spot to Tee in.
 
IMO I don't want to divert any oil going to the turbo. I'd take it from the OPS or cooler lines.
Also, I just need to know what thread pitch of the filter you would want to run. I can put a mount that will except "most" filters.
What micron are the filters you plan to run? Are they full flow filters or bypass filters.
 
Burning oil said:
IMO I don't want to divert any oil going to the turbo. I'd take it from the OPS or cooler lines.
Also, I just need to know what thread pitch of the filter you would want to run. I can put a mount that will except "most" filters.
What micron are the filters you plan to run? Are they full flow filters or bypass filters.
Click to expand...

Wrong end of the turbo, ;)

I have a SCAVENGE pump as I have a remote mounted turbo, this is on the return side, which goes to the oil pan, which I think, would be perfect for the bypass return. There is no pressure there, just volume so that should work fine, again, I think. There are some oil pressure fittings at the oil filter area, so I can tap into one of those.

The Baldwin's I can get are the B50 and B164, which are bypass filters rated at 2 microns absolute and have an oil restrictor built in. The threads are 5/8x18 and I forgot, I bought a filter base years ago to do a coolant setup on my now sold F250 Powerstroke and it happens to be the right size.

I'll run a decent regular filter, IE Bosch or Amsoil, no more K@N, their new Made in Mexico filters are now cheaply made but cost the same, WTF? :WTF: and run the B164 bypass filter.
 
OH! return side oil. Sounds like a good spot for bypass as long as the pump keeps the oil cleared away from turbo.
I believe the return oil is pretty frothy too, not sure if that would affect anything.
 
Burning oil said:
OH! return side oil. Sounds like a good spot for bypass as long as the pump keeps the oil cleared away from turbo.
I believe the return oil is pretty frothy too, not sure if that would affect anything.
Click to expand...

DOH, lol.

I checked it when I built it, no froth, just lots of flow, so much so, I had it tee'd into the oil fill and it was being blown up because it couldn't drain fast enough. It better pull the oil away otherwise my turbo would be toast and I'd have a runaway diesel, :eek: :skep: :(

What are your thoughts on my oil question?

Any luck on the timing gears?
 
I have an Amsoil dual bypass. Its nice and seems to filter good at 50K mile intervals, I didn't start at 50K but I worked up to it over 150K miles. If I was to do it again I would use a fuge or generic base w/ cat or similar filters, if I cant make 50K that way that's fine if it costs less.
 
turbovanman said:
DOH, lol.

I checked it when I built it, no froth, just lots of flow, so much so, I had it tee'd into the oil fill and it was being blown up because it couldn't drain fast enough. It better pull the oil away otherwise my turbo would be toast and I'd have a runaway diesel, :eek: :skep: :(

What are your thoughts on my oil question?

Any luck on the timing gears?
Click to expand...
Can't comment on the oil type.

Timing gears are in the works and I should have the prototype done in a week'ish time (depending on weather)

tanman_2006 said:
I have an Amsoil dual bypass. Its nice and seems to filter good at 50K mile intervals, I didn't start at 50K but I worked up to it over 150K miles. If I was to do it again I would use a fuge or generic base w/ cat or similar filters, if I cant make 50K that way that's fine if it costs less.
Click to expand...

I have a centrifuge Im going to install on my 506 build. Im actually going to run both a bypass and a fuge so that I can "show case" it to my customers.
 
Is the fuge bypass or full flow? Either way that would be a cool set up, just clean the fuge and change the filters and never change the oil lol.

I hope to do a fuge and/or by pass on either a low mile or Ted engine. Like I said, amsoil is nice but costly.

The amsoil filter adapter is nice though, I might use one if they are cheap enough. Added benefit of deleting 4x4 adapter!
Source Unknown
 
What size are the lines? Is 3/8 too big? I am having trouble finding socketless hose and 5/16 fittings to run hydraulic line.
 
I'd like to know some more about using a fuge. Who makes them and how are they installed?
 
jrsavoie said:
I used to do through the cap and ended up not liking it.
Click to expand...

Why?

tanman_2006 said:
My amsoil lines are 1/2 iirc. Might just look that big w/ the braided cover though.
Click to expand...

You have the 2 filter kit right? I can see why they'd be 1/2".

Looking at Leroy's kit, his seem to be 3/8, and I've seen others use 1/4, 5/16, so I really don't think it matters if you keep it around this size, as the orifice in the filter will limit the flow. Hmmmmm.
 
tanman_2006 said:
Is the fuge bypass or full flow? Either way that would be a cool set up, just clean the fuge and change the filters and never change the oil lol.

I hope to do a fuge and/or by pass on either a low mile or Ted engine. Like I said, amsoil is nice but costly.

The amsoil filter adapter is nice though, I might use one if they are cheap enough. Added benefit of deleting 4x4 adapter!
Source Unknown
Click to expand...
Both will be bypass filtering. You don't want to mess with the full flow curcuit or turbo supply IMO.
turbovanman said:
What size are the lines? Is 3/8 too big? I am having trouble finding socketless hose and 5/16 fittings to run hydraulic line.
Click to expand...
Mine are 3/8" The supply to the filter is a -6 AN SS braid teflon lined hose. The valve on outlet helps "throttle" the oil so you can adjust the flow through the filter.
jrsavoie said:
I used to do through the cap and ended up not liking it.
Click to expand...
I have the filler neck off a Hummer that I might use on mine, but for a general kit through the cap is way easier for the average guy (plug and play). My though the cap fitting is a swivle fitting. The good thing about running return oil there is the timing chain/gear gets a nice oil shower.
dixiepc said:
I'd like to know some more about using a fuge. Who makes them and how are they installed?
Click to expand...

I did a post on it a few years ago, even fabed up a kit for the 96 & ^ trucks. I'll find it and post a link.
 
I quit going through the cap because I didn't like the mess from the residual dribble when the cap was removed. Or the residual dribble when the truck was started with the cap removed.

All of our vehicles have a fitting installed on the fill neck to attach the return line to.

Now we can start the vehicles and watch the oil run back in the fill tubes
 
Heres the link. You get the basic idea. Don't think the link in my post works anymore and the Youtube vid is long gone. Prices have come down since then also. I only have parts for 3-4 complete kits left, but would possibly make more if interest was there. I can still get the centrifuges anytime though.
Im getting ready to install a new engine in my 96 and am planing a different set up for it so I'd sell the kit off my truck too.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...s-engine-oil-centrifuge-filter-system-for-6-5
 
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