Putting full flow on the bypass is no problem. You don't want to accdentally put the bypass element on the full flow is why I said to keep thread pitch different on the two.
Idiot proof it.
Idiot proof it.
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Anyone run an oil bypass setup in a 6.5?
- Thread starter turbovanman
- Start date
jrsavoie
Recruit
Never thought of it that way. No chance of that happening with the bypass filters I use. LOL
- Staff
- #43
FS-2500 is a pretty good set up! :thumbsup:
jrsavoie
Recruit
I've had a few. years ago they definitely did a better job than the Amsoil filter. Amsoil has improved their filter since. I haven't seen a noticeable difference between the Amsoil Bypass and the FS2500 since Amsoil came out with their newer filters.
It's hard to tell much by looking though
Also, appaently one of the best thing you can do on a diesel to preserve the oil is go with gapless rings. I'll be giving it a go on the next engine. I know joshua and others have said it works awesome.
- Staff
- #46
If I had to do it all over again, I think I would go with a centrifuge setup. This way I would not be so dependent on unit specific filters of the FS2500. I would not have a problem with the Amsoil setup either. Most of it comes down to the packaging of the bypass setup. I do like the smaller, out of the way package of the FS2500. I like the even smaller footprint of the centrifuge setup.
tanman_2006
Just a farm kid...
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
Installed it tonight, my thread adapter worked, used socketless hose. Ran it for 10 mins on the hoist, filter and lines were warm so I am assuming it worked, plus my oil level went down about 1.5L. I took a sample so I'll get it tested, pretty gross stuff, blah. Took me about 1.5 hours, that was with chatting with customers and cutting myself, :mad2:
Total cost, roughly $80 and some labour.
I am guessing, lol, not sure what would happen to the oil filter if it plugged solid and no internal bypass? Not sure I am willing to find out, :rof:
Yep, my GEP is getting those.
Can't justify the cost personally. This "kit" cost me $80, and the filters are $10 each. If I had a newer DI, I would for sure consider a CF as they certainly work.
Total cost, roughly $80 and some labour.
I am guessing, lol, not sure what would happen to the oil filter if it plugged solid and no internal bypass? Not sure I am willing to find out, :rof:
Yep, my GEP is getting those.
Can't justify the cost personally. This "kit" cost me $80, and the filters are $10 each. If I had a newer DI, I would for sure consider a CF as they certainly work.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Is it worth it do do a centrifuge in the garage, so cost of one set up and do multiple vehicles? Wondering about options, because it will not fit in the Hummer by the looks of it.
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
Drove home, aprox 40km's, check the bypass filter, nice and hot, so its working. Engine seemed to get peppier closer I got to home. I'll check the oil condition at work tomorrow, another 40K drive.
Pics later.
What do you mean? Buy a hobby one for fuels and then swap it onto each ride you drive? Seems like a boat load of work and hassle. I don't see why you couldn't mount one in a Hummer.
Will, I missed it but how did you turbo your Hummer?
Pics later.
What do you mean? Buy a hobby one for fuels and then swap it onto each ride you drive? Seems like a boat load of work and hassle. I don't see why you couldn't mount one in a Hummer.
Will, I missed it but how did you turbo your Hummer?
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Removed engine, replaced all bearings, (without removing heads) oil pump, freeze plugs,cam- spun center cam bearing. While out drilled oil ports for center mount gm6. Custom bent intake studs for van intake onto truck heads. Mill center intake piece slightly for clearance under windshield support. Donor van engine for turbo and manifolds. Custom made 2 wire cps for signal to tcm and tach since ess style oil pump drive had to go. 2" downpipe about 3' long to existing exhaust to (all be changed later 4" exhaust w/ hmmwv style angled stack). Used injectors from van. 1/2 + up on fuel in db2. More power, same exact mpg. Higher egts in hot weather= overheating on freeway hills in 100* & up temps. Hopeful on bigger exhaust and new roof mount ac/ heater core set up will help. If not the water mist on non stop basis will go in.
I really want to figure one of these set ups for helping the oil in my rig, but I have to do some creative engineering to fit some thing somewhere. What is the smallest yet effective centrifuge ? RI CHEVY got me to thinking on that a lot.
Smallest size is like the one I sell.
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
Well, I've put about a 100 km's on her, oil seems slightly more viscous, clean wise, looks and feels the same. The oil I sampled out is friggin gross.
I swear she's running smoother, has more power and just running better overall,
Ok, pics. The brass fitting I had in my bucket of fittings, its a -5 AN, I think its to do with plumbing? It has 5/8 thread and 3/8, exactly what I need. I cut the taper off as it hit the restrictor inside the filter, tapped out and countersunk the oil filter housing and ground down the threads so the filter would tighten up. Used socketless hose, tapped in above the the OE filter and tee'd into the turbo return line.
Gotcha, thanks for the writeup, awesome, :thumbsup:
I swear she's running smoother, has more power and just running better overall,
Ok, pics. The brass fitting I had in my bucket of fittings, its a -5 AN, I think its to do with plumbing? It has 5/8 thread and 3/8, exactly what I need. I cut the taper off as it hit the restrictor inside the filter, tapped out and countersunk the oil filter housing and ground down the threads so the filter would tighten up. Used socketless hose, tapped in above the the OE filter and tee'd into the turbo return line.
Gotcha, thanks for the writeup, awesome, :thumbsup:
Looks good. Is that push lock fittings?
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
Yes sir, socketless hose I guess we call it. Mopac, my local hi po parts place makes their own fittings and hose, its half the price of Russell and Aeroquip, so the -6 hose is $2.20 a ft. I had a couple spare fittings hence the red/blue ones. Love the stuff, makes making up hoses cake plus if you need to change something, you cut the hose and either shorten it or get some longer stuff, no running to hydraulic stores.
I like the idea of using AN too, just keep an eye on the push lock for leaks. I had a remote mount filter set up with push lock blow off on me. It dumped 5-6 quarts of oil before I noticed. I was real lucky that time.
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
So far guess I am lucky, lol, been using socketless hose for about 5 years, and so far, knock on wood, no failures yet.
I allway said if I went with push lock again then I would put a clamp on loosely, just enough to keep hose from coming of the barb, or atleast a zip tie.
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
I saw posts on using clamps and the makers say no, it will cut the inner hose as the barbs are sharp. I'll just keep an eye on them. My Caravan has the oil and trans coolers done using Socketless and the oil temps hit 200+ with no issues, oh, and the coolant lines for the turbo are also socketless. I've had the turbo off too many times and they are nice and tight.
Thats great, it was Probably my bad luck?