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Another BD Quick Spool Valve Install with A/C

WarWagon

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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About 1 month shy of a year since 6.5L did this. Been kicking it around since and finally couldn't resist anymore with the 10% off sale at XDP.

We will see if dad notices that the ATT turbo is secretly replaced with a BD Quick Spool Valve enhanced ATT turbo. :hihi:

This will be on the 6.2 diesel in the 1995 suburban.

First off the BD Quick Spool Valve is huge! It is also, and there is simply no other way to say this, built like a brick s#ithouse! So I don't feel so bad about dropping $600.00 on it because it appears to be a overkill quality heavy duty part. I put a can of WD-40 in the picture to give everyone a sense of scale. Also having the massive turbo out of the picture helps. Going to be a bit of a project to get it shoehorned in.

The AC can stay, but you need to rotate the accumulator line to the compressor. So the AC needs to be pulled down. This is going to cause a clearance mess with the K47 and flat panel air cleaner housings. The 1995 has a pressurized surge tank that has to move. Stay tuned for the solution to the issues.


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told you it was big haha and i feel that BD really out did themselves with the quality. I thought it was well worth the money
 
The thing I am most excited about is how it will run with a electronic pump with a tune and and automatic
 
Tuned in.

You could easily have the hose custom made for $50 or less. I just bought a set of gasser hoses and found out they wont work on the diesel (Suburban dual air) So I had the old hard line cut off and attached to the new hose set.
You could do the same, but with some custom bending before welding it to hose set.
 
Burning oil said:
Tuned in.

You could easily have the hose custom made for $50 or less. I just bought a set of gasser hoses and found out they wont work on the diesel (Suburban dual air) So I had the old hard line cut off and attached to the new hose set.
You could do the same, but with some custom bending before welding it to hose set.
Click to expand...
Yep, diesels use SAE threads for the rear A/C lines and gassers use metric. I learned this one when I found out 95 rear A/C lines are discontinued and none left when I had to replace my rear evap. Also found out 96-99 lines are available and can be made to work with some slight bending and hanger changes.
 
Also make sure those two bolts holding the gold canister in place on the sides are tight. Mine must not have been and after a while the canister became fairly loose from wearing the bolt down so far from vibrating. A $1 fix from your local ACE, but it is just as easy to not have to do it. And if it clears the valve covers I still think it would hit the compressor housing. And I see they are adjustable on the site. Not sure how to figure that out. I see they sell the boost pressure regulator or something along those lines but I am not sure how it would work or if that is even what it is made for.
 
You can't rotate it 180 degrees. It hits the compressor housing of the turbo. It would also spool the large side instead of the small side on the exhaust wheel. T3-T4 also means you can't mount it upside down as well as the valve angle directing exhaust gasses smoothly.

Manifold side (bottom) shown for valve design.
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A redesigned part for the 6.5 with a cable pull etc. would be nice.

I have a AC shop that can make custom hoses. I will also see if they can 'fix' the short orface tube line to allow a VOV to fit in the front AC line. It is about 1/4" too long to allow the line to bolt back up. After final assembly we will see what AC line routing would be the best. Air filters and different housings are not off the table.
 
Sub'd

I too would like to see what it does with an auto, ds4, and tune.

This may be the next big purchase for my rig. Either this or wmi.

Either way it's got my attention. Keep up the good work guys, this is what the 6.5 needs!
 
I think with the DS4, an automatic, and a good tune, there are going to be even more drastic improvements than with my setup
 
If the tune controls the shift points (I think it does, feel free to correct me), you would probably have to have revised shift points to account for the change, since more power will be on tap lower down and you won't have to be held in a gear so long as you would with just the ATT. You could even change the way the fueling is brought on since you will now have a slightly more usuable RPM band and can afford more fuel down low. Just my thoughts. Could very well be wrong
 
Thanks WW. Spooling the wrong side is a no go. Looks like the bracket is bolted on, so a cable pull mod might be easy? Have you looked at using the vac system to control it?
 
I'm very interested in how this turns out. After the other spool valve thread I've been wondering how the valve might work with the ATT with the larger housing (if I remember right that was the difference found with the ATT that came put together wrong).

Don
 
I swapped to the larger ATT housing a while after my last dyno. The regular one was sweet with the valve, but I am not even at max fueling and do not have headstuds and was boosting 22psi. My headgaskets were on borrowed time so I swapped to the larger housing to keep from over-boosting. Even with the large housing it pulls like a damn beast. However, with the valve set where it is, once it starts to open it doesn't build any more boost. I do not have the fueling for it once the valve opens. So it basically acts like a wastegate around 15psi on a round-about way. I am going to turn my fuel up this week I think and see how the large housing likes it.
 
Good news!
I got a call from my new rep from one of my suppliers. He asked if he could do anything, I SAID YES!
Long story short if anyone is interested I can now sell the QSV for $599 SHIPPED! in USA Thats my "everyday low price" :hihi:
 
That's awesome, here's to hoping l can give ya call next year..

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
 
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