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Another BD Quick Spool Valve Install with A/C

Burning oil said:
Good news!
I got a call from my new rep from one of my suppliers. He asked if he could do anything, I SAID YES!
Long story short if anyone is interested I can now sell the QSV for $599 SHIPPED! in USA Thats my "everyday low price" :hihi:
Click to expand...

:thumbsup: Good news!

I still have to solve the cooling system. Looks like swapping in a 1993 radiator with the fill neck on it is the path of least resistance. (Hmmm... I happen to have a 1993 to trade parts with.) There just isn't room for a surge tank under the hood.

Then I can run the K47 without the airbox as a hot air intake until I get to the AC shop and get the lines remade. Not sure it would clear the valve now so I will have to check this.

Other option is to relocate the battery under the floorboards off the frame. Room for both air box and surge tank in the battery location.
 
WW are you looking to keep the low coolant sensor? I think any tank volume equivalent to current surge tank volume or a bit larger to allow an air space for expansion will work. I think it must be mounted high enough to hold the air bubble above the radiator or ......

I was going to suggest a different approach plumb in a plumbing expansion tank with bladder almost anywhere but when I looked the pressures are in the 35-60 psi range and the radiator is only going to build about 15 psi. So not sure how they would work might have to oversize and just precharge with low pressure like 5psi just to get air in the bladder??? Not sure how to size you wouldn't want the surge expansion to create any "P" air trap issue and not allow siphon back of coolant when cooling back down. I think that is why they mount them high so gravity helps.

I also looked on Be-cool website and Griffin radiator and they have recovery tanks and that I think are surge tanks mounted about the radiator tank height. I think they act like a surge tank and not the overflow tanks of the green coolant era.??? But not sure how they maintain the air bubble??? Might be how the recovery tanks work. It expands into top and siphons from bottom just has to be empty on radiator fill or allow enough volume to expand into and keep the lid air tight not vented like the old overflow tanks?????Might want to contact one of those for advice. But again I think any long horizontal tank mounted up on center of fire wall would work then adapt hose to exsisting surge tank hose somewhere convienent. Maybe use clear hose to see coolant level.

Or follow Ferm's idea of finding a comparable clear plastic tank from another vehicle that could bolt up to firewall?
 
On further consideration the volume has to match so proper pressure will build. If its oversized too big it won't build proper pressure. In which case might consider evans coolant and just any ole tank on fender to allow some air space.
 
dragogt said:
That's awesome, here's to hoping l can give ya call next year..

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
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Hope the price is still the same then, just to be safe better order one now :rolleyes5:

WarWagon said:
:thumbsup: Good news!

I still have to solve the cooling system. Looks like swapping in a 1993 radiator with the fill neck on it is the path of least resistance. (Hmmm... I happen to have a 1993 to trade parts with.) There just isn't room for a surge tank under the hood.

Then I can run the K47 without the airbox as a hot air intake until I get to the AC shop and get the lines remade. Not sure it would clear the valve now so I will have to check this.

Other option is to relocate the battery under the floorboards off the frame. Room for both air box and surge tank in the battery location.
Click to expand...

Just thinking/designing in my head, is there enough room to relocate surge tank to fan shroud area next to PS battery?
 
There isn't much room left under the hood. Recall I have dual air/heat taking lots of hoses everywhere on the PS side. A very small space where the surge tank was is it. The surge tank handles the overflow and keeps the radiator full of coolant while keeping the Dexcool out of contact with air. Dexcool, first generation, would breakdown in overflow catch can type setups. The surge tank needs to be located higher than the radiator.

IMO a battery relocation will solve a lot of problems so future projects with the surge tank should plan on doing this. I may end up having to do this for the K47.

Low coolant sensor will just be shorted INOP to keep the light off. They don't ever work when it matters anyway. Like when you pop a block heater out on the freeway and crack the heads. The light comes on later due to slime coating being wet enough on the radiator sensor in the ~1988 - 1993 design. Float fails in the surge tank stuff...
 
You might look into the Evans coolant, I love the stuff, no pressure in the cooling system, no worry about water leaking past head studs, etc... I tow heavy ( 19,500 lbs ) on a regular basis and NO over heating at all... only a small holding tank on the drivers fender for expansion..
 
Sitting waiting on parts. It will also be 119 degrees out this weekend so I lack a certain amount of motivation even if I had parts. You get burned even without the engine having been running...

Waiting on down pipe adapter and will be swapping radiators if I can get things cooled off from the warm glow of 119 degrees. Air cleaner assembly will be last after testing it out.
 
WarWagon said:
Sitting waiting on parts. It will also be 119 degrees out this weekend so I lack a certain amount of motivation even if I had parts. You get burned even without the engine having been running...

Waiting on down pipe adapter and will be swapping radiators if I can get things cooled off from the warm glow of 119 degrees. Air cleaner assembly will be last after testing it out.
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Going to be hot here in SoCal, but nothing near the 119 you're looking at. We'll be into the 90s here in Fullerton. Headed up to Big Bear Lake where the projected Hi/Lo is 91/63. I have the enviable task of stuffing insulation under the floor of the house via the crawl space. I've co-opted the 6' 1" and 150 lb son and his friend to help on this project. Once completed, all new flex ducting going in under there. All of this is aimed at repairing the supply side of the furnace where several ducts were disconnected or had holes in them and the old ducting only had an insulation value of R4.2. Ironic that we're doing this on one of the hottest weekends of the year.
 
Thats hot WW and Tanner!! Don't leave that wrench in the sun to long then try to use it :incazzato:
 
vegtech said:
I plan to build one for my ATT. I hate the lag but just cant bring myself to drop 6 bills.
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If you have lag your tune may not be set up for your configuration. Proper tune does not have lag. I get boost at 1250 rpm .5 to.8 pounds boost but it is positive none the less and more as it is loaded. wORKING ON OBD 2 set up so can do the tune for my product instead of having competitors tune for it. Have a few retunes to Kojo or Westers and they have been positive outcomes from previous tunes. Maybe you need a little tweaking to what you have.
 
vegtech said:
I plan to build one for my ATT. I hate the lag but just cant bring myself to drop 6 bills.
Click to expand...

I know what you are saying, however, lag is not the correct term. I know you are saying there is a difference and there is. The ATT is going to deliver boost you can use or not depending on engine RPM. HX40II same thing. From a stoplight dig one would think the turbo has lag. This is simply because it delivers boost at a higher RPM. Everyone is used to the GMx delivering 6 PSI of boost at like 1400 RPM. The GMx later chokes at higher RPM. The HX40II and the ATT both need to see about 2K RPM from a stoplight WOT experience to really feel them pull. (Without a trailer/load.)

After 2K RPM the turbo's go from 0 boost to full boost very quickly on the freeway. Thus the reason lag is not the correct term. The turbo's either deliver boost or not at a given RPM.

Loaded and steady speed any boost under 2K RPM is useful for setting kickdown shift points. Boost alone is hard to compare as the ATT delivers the same power at lower boost numbers. Regardless in a high load situation the turbo's will deliver useful boost under 2K RPM if the engine is held at that RPM. When it starts to smoke you are lugging it at a steady RPM and need to downshift. The RPM this happens is different for each turbo.

The reason for the BD spool valve on the 1995 is to meet my performance goals and not pull the engine over the small precups. My 1993 doesn't need it. Unitl I run it and then maybe I will want it...

Radiator to be swapped out and should be smoking this weekend. Air cleaner is temporary until I find one that fits better.
 
I will need to rework the air cleaner assy as both the AC line and boost valve are in the way. For now the first impressions are as follows with it being 106 degrees F, AC on, and cooling fan running.

6.5L has a gift for understatement. I now completely understand why he doesn't want to bother with an HX40II.

If you ever wondered what the gas turbine cars of the past sounded like... Sounds like a cross of a blizzard coming out the exhaust and a jet fighter hitting the afterburners. The muted ATT jet turbine spin up noise is no longer muted as it is very audibly winding up.

Has a little trouble getting out of the hole with the AC and fan load. No change there. Then we get rolling a little and it picks up more enthusiastically than it did before. The smoke starts to clear. (Usually it just pours coal with this high outside temp. This engine is especially dirty with the small precups.)

At 2K RPM it hits 10 PSI boost, the smoke is gone, and my vision blurs. :Eyecrazy:

Before you know it boost is at ~19 PSI, and we are doing 50MPH with EGT's of 1300 when I have to back out of it. It is a good thing I upgraded the brakes!

I do have a 4" soot trap on this and it may be due for a inspection to see if it has plugged up any.

For reference a brake stall only gets me 1500 RPM.

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Needed a 1993 lower radiator hose, radiator with fill cap, overflow bottle, 1" heater hose for the CDR, 3/4 hose for a 2" longer oil drain, 2" added to the downpipe exhaust adapter and a 90 degree elbow. Around $400 in other parts. I had to replace the radiator due to a cracked side tank so the radiator cost is a wash to me although I included it in the $400.
 
That a/c line is tight.

So, would you say it was worth it? Are you going to dyno it again?
 
I am glad you enjoy it. And yes, it does sound great. I am surprised you are only getting 19psi with it. I could hit 22psi no problem with the pump not even turned up all the way. Maybe a video in the works??
 
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