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AMG P400 long block $6950.

Burning oil said:
Includes: Brand new long block, no core charge, forged steel crankshaft, forged rods, factory girdle, complete heads, Cam/Main/Rod Bearings, Camshaft, Oil Pump, Valves, Valve Springs, Valve Keepers, Valve Cover, Valve Guides, Timing Chain, Three Angle Valve Seats, Push Rods, Rocker Arms, Pistons, Piston Rings, and oil pan

250 HP Power Rating
550 LB-FT Torque Rating
Forged Steel Crankshaft,
Connecting Rods

Again this is all brand new, not rebuilt. You will need modified oil pan in a 4x4. I was told it will drop in a 2wd without moding the oil pan (can anyone confirm this?)

Email to buy [email protected]
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I have information that, Lifted 4X4 Truck and Suburban, works with P-400 with original Oil Pan.... Someone confirm this?
 
On a lifted truck it should fit.
I was shocked to find out the stock P400 pan will not fit on a 2wd either. That sucks because it drive the cost of the conversion up.
I have a stock P400 pan for sale now if anyone needs one?
 
With the P400 being so much stronger than the regular GM 6.5 and GEP Optimizer 6500, is there an issue now with getting more fuel into the much stronger engine to make more power?

I'm assuming people are using either the electronic or mechanical injection systems from their GM trucks?

We've now got the option for the stronger engine, but now is there a fuel issue in that the factory fuel systems cannot deliver much more fuel? Also what sort of boost can you cram into these things?

The P400 is rated at "250HP", which one would assume its rated at 250HP for military use where its going to be abused 24/7 and lugging around extremely heavy vehicles, but surely the engine would be able to handle much more than that, is 400-500hp out of the question for a street vehicle?
 
Yes, fuel is the limiting factor. There are several people that max out the fuel and don't worry about a grenade lower end. There are way to over come that...imo the coolest being:
 
Twin injection pumps, pretty damn cool!

Is there a way to make a single or the electronic variant push more fuel, or is there an option of an aftermarket injection pump to solve this issue?
 
Damo said:
With the P400 being so much stronger than the regular GM 6.5 and GEP Optimizer 6500, is there an issue now with getting more fuel into the much stronger engine to make more power?

I'm assuming people are using either the electronic or mechanical injection systems from their GM trucks?

We've now got the option for the stronger engine, but now is there a fuel issue in that the factory fuel systems cannot deliver much more fuel? Also what sort of boost can you cram into these things?

The P400 is rated at "250HP", which one would assume its rated at 250HP for military use where its going to be abused 24/7 and lugging around extremely heavy vehicles, but surely the engine would be able to handle much more than that, is 400-500hp out of the question for a street vehicle?
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It all equates to how fast do you want to spend $$$$$$. Any 6.5 td built after May 1999 (first enhanced) is good for a rebuild according to the rebuilding industry the P400 is the best of the best and fuel system PM & replacement costs is not such a big problem w/IP and injectors being inexpensive as compared to the competition the Bull Moose mechanical pump is the best for feeding the 6.5 td more fuel over what stock pumps do. Keeping the 6.5td cool is perhaps the biggest issue in a motor vehicle but that has been already covered w/cooling system upgrades.

As for 400 to 500 hp out of a 6.5td P400 goes I'd say perhaps 375 to 400 is more realistic and will last for a long time if cared for properly. Boost 3.0 pressure ratio from an HX40w would be 44.1+- lbs boost 'actual' 29.4+- lbs boost at gauge that's a lot of pounds of air being crammed into a IDI type diesel then a big CAC/IC to keep the charge cool a 2nd gen Dodge Ram Cummins CAC/IC will do.

In the end a P400 w/mechanical Bull Moose IP, HX40w and Ram Cummins CAC/IP would be a great and reliable setup and easy on the pocket when it comes to injection system parts as compared to most other diesels.
 
Im planning on propane, but more as a way to reduce cost per mile however the side benefit is more hp/tq too when needed.
I have not heard of anyone running propane on a 6.5 though yet. Anyone have any input on that?
 
General rule is 1 lb of air for every 10 HP so a 2.5 to 2.75 pressure ratio from a HX40w would be
Burning oil said:
Im planning on propane, but more as a way to reduce cost per mile however the side benefit is more hp/tq too when needed.
I have not heard of anyone running propane on a 6.5 though yet. Anyone have any input on that?
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HHO dry cell is a much better way to go IMHO a 6.5td needs 18 liters per minute of HHO to get upwards of 50% increase in mpgs at speed the mpg increase actually comes from using 50% +- less diesel fuel.

A commercial hydrogen on demand unit is around $15k US a big chunk of $$$$$$$$$ the HHO dry cells on demand for the kind of output the 6.5td needs is under $600. plus a PWM voltage controller, bigger alt/gen, bubbler, wiring and misc. install items or you can buy a complete assembled unit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HHO-Dry-Cel...assive-Hydrogen-Generator-TT124-/301578767517
 
The way I see it, you are already paying $7000 for the P400 so whats an extra few thousand to take advantage of that strong engine? As you say injection components are cheap compared to modern common rail injection systems, the injectors on my diesel Focus are $1000/each from Ford.

Everyone seems to be talking Holset HX40 from 1990s cars, using FMIC from other cars etc, has anyone ever fitted something like the new Precision Gen 2 turbos and had an efficient FMIC made up for them to suit their car? The PTE Gen 2 turbos are ball bearing centers and come in all sorts of configurations with modern wheel designs.

I'm not using propane injection on my diesel but I am using water/methanol injection on my turbo diesel Focus, admittedly it is a modern engine with common rail and variable vane turbo but it picked up 6KW at the wheels when we ran it up on the dyno just on 51/49 water/methanol mix with it just being injected without actually being tuned more aggressively, mine isn't set up to inject constantly just at very high RPM for when I want to give it some.

In the future I'm looking to get another GMT400 truck, and then most certainly a P400 will be on the cards since they seem to be fairly cheap now (back two years ago they were $15K from Peninsular WTF?) or would like to use one for a project vehicle, maybe 1970s Chevy C10 or something.
 
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635 ran WMI and Propane on his motor. Approx 30 gal Propane and 25 gal H20 tanks stacked behind the cab. We really noticed the difference when the Water Ran out. Not so much with the propane and at the speeds we were running on the one long trip we didn't see a real improvement on MPGs. Normally he was down below 70mph and would see 20+ on WMI alone. That's on a 3500 dually ECLB with big tires. I don't have pictures of the set up on this computer. Sorry
 
Propane compared to #2 diesel, is 91,500 btu to 139,600 btu. However only about half the volume is normally used because the power gain is notable enough for the propane due to the cooling properties and the cleaner burn from the shorter chain molecules. If you replace gallon per gallon, a big difference will be noticed from the more rapid burn even thought the btu count is lower.

If you replace btu per minute burned, it is a huge difference. It just is painful to your Pistons.

We ran frequent tests in fleets with propane on all our Diesel engines. If your willing to play the risk game there are gains to be had there. We did figure out a lot of the advantage was the temp drop, so doing it with water injection would negate that. Idk if I would run propane and water at same time though. You stand to make a catalyst in you chamber the would be corrosive. Short term would be ok but not 100,000 miles.jmho.
 
Will L. said:
Propane compared to #2 diesel, is 91,500 btu to 139,600 btu. However only about half the volume is normally used because the power gain is notable enough for the propane due to the cooling properties and the cleaner burn from the shorter chain molecules. If you replace gallon per gallon, a big difference will be noticed from the more rapid burn even thought the btu count is lower.

If you replace btu per minute burned, it is a huge difference. It just is painful to your Pistons.

We ran frequent tests in fleets with propane on all our Diesel engines. If your willing to play the risk game there are gains to be had there. We did figure out a lot of the advantage was the temp drop, so doing it with water injection would negate that. Idk if I would run propane and water at same time though. You stand to make a catalyst in you chamber the would be corrosive. Short term would be ok but not 100,000 miles.jmho.
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Why not butane w/its 130k btu/gal?
 
Paveltolz said:
635 ran WMI and Propane on his motor. Approx 30 gal Propane and 25 gal H20 tanks stacked behind the cab. We really noticed the difference when the Water Ran out. Not so much with the propane and at the speeds we were running on the one long trip we didn't see a real improvement on MPGs. Normally he was down below 70mph and would see 20+ on WMI alone. That's on a 3500 dually ECLB with big tires. I don't have pictures of the set up on this computer. Sorry
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An initial 1k psi water fogger system would use much less water.
 
For my use adding propane is to reduce my cost per mile by supplementing the diesel with a cheaper fuel. The potential for added power going over the Rockies...ect is a big bonus. At the same time I don't want to damage my engine. In ya'lls opinion running LPG on an IDI diesel is safe? What if any issues could it present?
 
I dunno, it seems propane/LPG on diesels is a very old school setup, a few people did it here locally in Australia with mixed results. I still reckon better off with a WMI setup with a progressive kit so you can dial it in that you're not always using the WMI, so it only comes on when you're trying to climb a hill etc.
 
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