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Air in fuel lines.

I see, so what makes the momentary switch open and close? I understand the power going to it but how does it know when to open and when to close?

I thought that you were talking about running a switch into the cab and doing it manually with a push button type of setup ( I think Missy had mentioned that to me before but I cant remember).
 
the momentary switch(usually a push button) is what you put in the cab.


EDIT: did you check to make sure the supply wire has power,the one that powers the plugs itself(not the controller)?
 
Yeah, momentary toggle or momentary pushbutton swith in the cab. Thats how I start my demolition derby cars too, a pushbutton switch in the cab that goes to the starter solenoid. Rather than using the key.
 
Its only mornings that the engine is really cold and you need glow plugs working.
You have not owned many 6.2's have you ? Most need them even when warm. No glows, no start
The electric pump does not determine how much fuel gets injected. No but the advance AFAIK works off FP. . No PCM here..
The mechanical injection pump does, the one in the engine valley. The electric lift pump just gets fuel to that injection pump. It makes sense to have a manual momentary switch to activate a relay to power the glows. The starter solenoids work good for that and are only like $15.
Shitcan the controller. At best they suck ass on the older trucks. .Like Buddy said, a cheap easy fix. Save yourself alot of grief. I thought I did a write up on it but maybe it was at DP. It's easy to do and well worth it. Use 60gs. They are self regulating.
 
Have not had any 6.2s but my 6.5 would start on cool mornings, like 50F with 7 bad glows. I have two healthy batteries and it took about 10 seconds of cranking though.

The advance may be controlled by fuel pressure of internal IP transfer pressure, which will always exceed 10psi, and goes up to about 130psi.
 
Ok, well then once I get some time I will run the glows that way.

What should I do about the fuel filter housing leaking? The one I have on there is the second one and it leaks too. It's hard to tell exactly where it's leaking from, but I think it's more than 1 place. The one I know for sure is the top valve that bleeds the air. It has one of those black plus sign shape heads, but it leaks out from under the valve head even with it as tight as I can get it without breaking. The second housing was used so there is possibilty that its bad. But if I can just buy new guts for it then I'd like that (standyne housing).
 
all that under the black plastic piece ia small "O" ring on the end.the only other spots the can leak are the fuel heater(on top) or the water drain. there is the possibility of leaks between the filter and the backing but I've never seen one.
 
Ok cool, I will get another O ring and try that out. If it is the heater, can the O ring on that be changed also? And the drain doesn't have the black plastic valve piece on this newer one I bought, it just has a stem coming out of the bottom, so I bought a on/off valve and spliced it into the hose.
 
Have not had any 6.2s but my 6.5 would start on cool mornings, like 50F with 7 bad glows. I have two healthy batteries and it took about 10 seconds of cranking though.

The advance may be controlled by fuel pressure of internal IP transfer pressure, which will always exceed 10psi, and goes up to about 130psi.

6.2 is a different animal. IN fact the only one I have ever seen start without glows(after say 10-20 mins or so) in warm weather is my CUCV but that has 24v start and spins over like a MF.

Rnation, It could be two bad housings in a row. They were a poor copy of the old John Deere ones and those sucked too.
 
And the drain doesn't have the black plastic valve piece on this newer one I bought, it just has a stem coming out of the bottom, so I bought a on/off valve and spliced it into the hose.

the drain may not have a black piece. mine has a screw just above the drain.
 
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