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Air in fuel lines.

you need 2 filters. a prefilter (basically a screen) and then the main filter. the prefilter sorts out the big stuff and protects the pump itself.
 
just a number said:
you need 2 filters. a prefilter (basically a screen) and then the main filter. the prefilter sorts out the big stuff and protects the pump itself.
Click to expand...

X2. Do the 6.2's with mechanical pumps have a sock in the tank? If so that qualifies as a prefilter. Electric pumps do not suck as well and the mechanical ones do. So you want just a course screen before the electric and the heavy duty filter after the pump. Course screen is the least restrictive filter... You also want the electric pump as low on the frame and as close to the tank as you can get it. This is why many makes have the in tank pumps.
 
The mech 6.2s have a sock in the tank that looks just like the one's the 6.5s use. 10 psi is a bit on the high side. Remember the advance works off the fuel pressure/temp in other words the higher pressure may cause the IP to advance. This was what I was told when I researched using the Raptor on my CUCV but FWIW I have a stock 93 6.5TD LP on my Burb with no issues. A DB2 CAN run flow on fail but it will have no power and smoke like a sick whore on a piss pot. Sometimes the mech lp's can leak fuel into the oil as well. Best to be rid of it. They are troublesome and I have removed them on every 6.2 I have ever owned except my old van. Only cause it was a bitch to get to and the mech one still worked ok.
 
I'm having a problem with fuel leaking out of the fuel filter housing now. I'm not sure if it's from to much psi or not (I would imagine that shouldn't be the cause) but I bought another fuel filter housing and this one leaks also. At first I thought it was just some bad o rings but after changing those it still leaks. Also in the morning when I go fire the truck up, if it doesn't start the first or second try, I noticed the glow plugs get alot of fuel on them to the point that I have to change them out to get it to start. Sounds strange to me but I'm a drywaller so...
 
Did you make sure to pay attention to the filter clocking because it only seats down into the housing one way. But the screw on part will still go on if its not all the way down.
 
I have the square filter, so I'm not sure if that's the one your referring to. The one I have doesn't require any screw.
 
He has the square plug in one. it should not leak. As far as too much fuel on the glow plugs, that ,makes no sense at all. You do realize Glow plugs HAVE NOTHING to do with the running of the truck. They are only a starting aid. The diesel engine runs off compression ignition.
 
Ahh, forgot it was the older 6.2. If the truck hasnt started and you get fuel on the glows, then the glows werent getting hot to burn the fuel you injected. So then they are bad or not being fed power correctly. How long is the glow cylce before you crank?
 
also what glow plugs do you have. some take longer then others to get hot. the early controllers were setup for a quick glow cycle.
 
buddy said:
Ahh, forgot it was the older 6.2. If the truck hasnt started and you get fuel on the glows, then the glows werent getting hot to burn the fuel you injected. So then they are bad or not being fed power correctly. How long is the glow cylce before you crank?
Click to expand...
I'd like to clarify this. I think Rnation is confused. Glow Plugs do NOT burn any fuel. They preheat the combustion chamber. Then Compression of the air charge is accomplished the air in the cyl is so hot that the timed , atomized fuel ignites at inj event. Glow Plugs merely aid this process in colder climates on light duty diesels.
 
The glow plug light usually comes on for about 10 seconds or so. But this morning it started but died right away (it was cold at my house and I didn't plug in block heater) then I cranked for a few seconds but it wouldn't fire so then I changed a glow plug and it worked.

I have a few issues going on with my truck right now and I'm not sure if this issue is related to the other issue (I have another thread "bad water pump" I just started today). However sometimes my glow plug light will come on and stay on, I try to pull over and turn the truck off as soon as possible but sometimes they stay on for 30 seconds before I can turn them off, and I think the most was a minute or two, which I know is bad.
 
I didn't see aces reply till now, but yes I thought wrong about how the glow plugs work. It might have been coincidental that when I changed the glow plug the truck started, I really don't know that was just my observation.

One thing I don't understand is that my truck wouldn't start in the first start of the day in the dead of summer without the glow plugs cycling first? The reason I know is because when the glow plug light comes on when I'm driving and doesnt go out, I stop and unhook the controller switch, a few times I forgot to hook it back up till the next day.
 
I wonder if the controller is going bad. it's tripping the light but not sending power to the plugs themselves. have you checked for power at the plugs when the light is on? if you have a dash voltmeter, it'll drop when the come on. it should never be on for 30 seconds, 20 is about max and that's only with the 60G or durathems(self limiting plugs). 15 for a standard style.
 
well your glow controller works based on radiant heat, so it should not come on at all when vehicle is on, because there should be a good amount of heat coming off the engine. If the light is on that means there is power to the glows, and holding most types on for a whole minute would ruin them. You should either replace the controller or just go to a manual switch using a very high current rated relay, like a Ford starter solenoid (probably better)

You could say that glows dont burn fuel, but it does before the engine is running. It may start the combustion if the autoignition temperature is not reached by compression. Obviously in the cold you may never reach autoignition temp without the glows. Regardless, a wet glow after cranking means they weren't working, because the hot glow would have burnt off any fuel. You can also just check the ohms from the glow spade to the glow threads, and if its more than 1 or 2 ohms they are toast.
 
That sucks if the controller is bad because it's fairly new and cost like 250. I think if that's bad I will do it manually, I've been talking about that to my friend.

Is it possible the wet glow is burning the fuel but the electric pump is just pushing too much fuel for the glow to keep up? Because most of the time the truck will fire right up even if it needs to go through a glow cycle. It only seems to be the mornings where I have my problems.
 
Its only mornings that the engine is really cold and you need glow plugs working. The electric pump does not determine how much fuel gets injected. The mechanical injection pump does, the one in the engine valley. The electric lift pump just gets fuel to that injection pump. It makes sense to have a manual momentary switch to activate a relay to power the glows. The starter solenoids work good for that and are only like $15.
 
cool, is there a tutorial somewhere maybe as to what exactly needs to be done? And can I eliminate the controller switch?
 
I dont know if there is a sticky with it already. But its basic. 1980s Ford Starter solenoid, provide it battery power to the input post with like 8gauge wire, and the base of it has to be grounded. Wire all the glows to the output post (10-12 gauge wire to each bank of cylinder before splitting to each glowplug). Then find an ignition source and put a momentary swith between ignition power source and the solenoid trigger post, which is labeled "S". Ive not seen the older controllers but mine already has the large battery wire going into the controller and out of it to the glow plugs, so you could just put the solenoid in that spot, and make sure the solenoid base is grounded where its mounted.
 
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