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A military rebuilt 6.5

For some reason, I'm not getting any email notification from TTS on the threads I'm subscribed to. Anyway, great work Nate! Your making fast progress, and I can't believe the amount of coolant your engine was getting in it! :eek: I'm happy to say, that with the mega black on my threads, and the oring mod, I'm getting 0 coolant past my studs. It is sad to see that gorgeous rockers all gooey, but I'm sure you'll have them cleaned up in no time. I guess I'm going to have to check up on your thread regularly, since I'n not getting notifications anymore. Great work.:)

Matt
 
Thanks Matt. I was wondering where you were, I hadn't heard from you in a few days. I just figured you were out taking in the sun and 80 degree temps down there...while I was up here freezing. 11*F this morning. Winter can end any time now....
 
Got another goody today....not for the engine but for the truck itself. A 14 bolt, 6 lug semi floater. My brother got it for me from the shop he works at for $25 and a case of Miller Lite:D. The pinion bearing blew up and took out the ring and pinion too, but the housing and G80 posi are hopefully still good. I figure I can rebuild it and have an axle with new internals for about the same price as a "good used" one (assuming it looks ok once I fully disassemble it). I know what I'm doing after the engine and trans swap :cool:image.jpg
 
If it looks usable after disassembly I'll have the housing blasted so it looks nice again. This is how most stuff in Michigan looks. Yay salt!!
 
I spent most of tonight picking up tools and sorting fasteners after the last couple nights. Tomorrow night should be back to engine building now that the parts are off the old engine. I did make my checking lifters tonight from the old lifters I took out last year. Not pretty but as long as the tacks hold they'll do the job. If the tacks don't hold then I'll do like others and take a couple lifters apart and fill them with washers and jb weld. I didn't have any jb on hand though so I did the quick and free thing. We'll see if it works. image.jpg
 
It's for checking piston to valve clearance with the reground cam installed. It should clear ok but I just want to be sure. By welding these 2 I can make sure they won't collapse under the pressure of the valve springs. These are old lifters that I had taken out that I intended to scrap because the retaining clip failed in one of the lifters and I didn't want to chance it with the rest of the set. The lifters I install in the engine for running will be regular old lifters.
 
DieselCash said:
cool, thanks for the explanation. Keep posting! I am learning a lot from this thread.
Click to expand...
Uh oh....I'm learning as I go, so don't consider it learning until we see how it turns out!! :D

In all seriousness, I've tried to research things well before this build so I'd be prepared, but it is my first 6.5 build so I could make a mistake, we'll see. My hope with this thread is that what I have done works, then how I got there is well documented....and if it doesn't work, well then others can see why it didn't. I feel pretty good that it's gonna turn out pretty well though. Thanks for following along!!
 
Nate, what diff does your Tahoe currently have, 8.5? If so, that larger diff is a wise choice with your setup.
Those lifters should work perfectly for checking your clearance. Nice work.

Matt
 
bowtiebutler956 said:
Nate, what diff does your Tahoe currently have, 8.5? If so, that larger diff is a wise choice with your setup.
Those lifters should work perfectly for checking your clearance. Nice work.

Matt
Click to expand...

Yeah an 8.5 10 bolt that already has some gear whine. A 14 bolt has been on the list for this year's upgrades and this one seemed worth the gamble for the price.
 
Got super lucky today....a friend of mine had an electronic boost controller he wasn't using anymore so he gave it to me!! :eek: After the engine is in and broken in, then I can start playing with the boost from the cab! This will be really handy so I can run lower boost while towing (for durability), but when I'm running unloaded, which is most of the time, I can crank it up! I'm super excited to try this thing out!! :cool::D
Blitzbox.jpg Blitz.jpg
 
n8in8or said:
Got another goody today....not for the engine but for the truck itself. A 14 bolt, 6 lug semi floater. My brother got it for me from the shop he works at for $25 and a case of Miller Lite:D. The pinion bearing blew up and took out the ring and pinion too, but the housing and G80 posi are hopefully still good. I figure I can rebuild it and have an axle with new internals for about the same price as a "good used" one (assuming it looks ok once I fully disassemble it). I know what I'm doing after the engine and trans swap :cool:View attachment 44419
Click to expand...
Far better than what is under there now nice indeed.
 
n8in8or said:
Got super lucky today....a friend of mine had an electronic boost controller he wasn't using anymore so he gave it to me!! :eek: After the engine is in and broken in, then I can start playing with the boost from the cab! This will be really handy so I can run lower boost while towing (for durability), but when I'm running unloaded, which is most of the time, I can crank it up! I'm super excited to try this thing out!! :cool::D
Click to expand...

Interesting, however the diesel vacuum pump is constant vacuum and gasser is variable vacuum will this unit work with the diesel, or?
 
FellowTraveler said:
Interesting, however the diesel vacuum pump is constant vacuum and gasser is variable vacuum will this unit work with the diesel, or?
Click to expand...

It isn't dependent on vacuum at all. It intercepts the boost reference signal to the wastegate actuator and you run a separate boost signal to the controller. When the boost reaches the level that you set in the controller then the solenoid opens and lets the boost open the wastegate actuator. So just by turning a knob on the controller you can adjust the boost level that opens the wastegate.

The controller also works as a boost gauge so I can use that to watch boost output and then in my existing gauge pod location I can run a drive pressure gauge so I can watch the correlation.
 
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