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A military rebuilt 6.5

Burning oil said:
Did hell just freeze over!!? Damn never thought you get rid of it. Do you get visitation rights?
Click to expand...

I never thought I would get rid of it either. Funny enough the guy who bought it is in my neighborhood so I do see it often. I told him flat out if I ever see it trashed I will find him and kick his :mooning:. It was like giving a child up for adobtin though. Not something I wanted to do but more or less had to given the circumstances. If I wasn't in need of the money the truck would be in my driveway next to the other.
 
FellowTraveler said:
n8in8or: Any late breaking on that build, or?
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That's funny, I was just getting ready to post this morning!

I finally got Car Code up and running this weekend! That is not the most intuitive program to use, but once I kind of got my bearings I found what I was looking for. Oddly my TDCO Offset number was still at the -1.14 value from when my brother set it with the scanner, but I think I figured out why.

So since it was -1.14, I advanced the pump a tick (BTW, I LOVE having those pump wrenches I made....it's really not a big deal to move the pump once you have the right tools in hand!). I couldn't find how to do the TDCO Relearn in Car Code so I just did the KOKO Relearn. The TDCO value was the same! I don't remember now the exact series of events that transpired, but what I found out is that it wasn't doing the relearn most of the times that I tried to initiate it...and I wouldn't have had a clue without being able to see the TDCO value via Car Code. Here's what I found: the times that the truck actually did go into the relearn procedure was when it would interrupt/cut short the glow plug cycle. Most of the time, I had to turn the key on 3 times (with the throttle to the floor) before it would actually initiate the procedure. Once I saw that it had interrupted the cycle, then it was good to go. After many moves of the pump and KOKO Relearns I finally got it to land on a value of -2.02, which is the value that Heath had programmed in the tune when I initially had it and I seem to remember reading somewhere that was the maximum value you can run without throwing a code (again, IIRC). I haven't thrown any codes in a couple days of driving, so I think I'm ok. It's running pretty good now and I'm still logging miles before turning things up more. I'm currently at about 1100 miles since first firing it up so my break-in is coming along nicely. I think at 1500 I'll change the oil again (I changed oil and filter at 500 miles), then I can start getting more serious like adding the boost controller and such.

Sunday I started working on getting cooler air into the engine, so I'm going to go start a new thread for that :)
 
CarCode once you get use to it can force the change offset w/o moving pump.

Sounds good what boost levels are you running? I'm going to 23/25 lbs on gauge & 37.7 to 39.7 actual because I get lots of black smoke when I stand on it.

You can monitor your IAT, FT, TFT etc through CarCode.
 
FellowTraveler said:
CarCode once you get use to it can force the change offset w/o moving pump.

Sounds good what boost levels are you running? I'm going to 23/25 lbs on gauge & 37.7 to 39.7 actual because I get lots of black smoke when I stand on it.

You can monitor your IAT, FT, TFT etc through CarCode.
Click to expand...
Right now I'm only running 16-17psi, but I can reach that with just over half throttle. In a few hundred miles I'll install the electronic boost controller so I can turn it up and down from inside the truck. I'm guessing I'll be running 25+ pounds of boost. I have an extra port in my manifold so I'd like to run a drive pressure gauge too, to see what it's doing on that side of the turbo.
 
SS FORCE said:
The power out of these trucks is amazing. And reliability. My dad has an 05 and its a big reason I upgraded.
It's been great talking to you and everyone else on here. This place is the reason I was able to do all I did to my rig. I bought it not knowing a thing.

I will be around. I don't know as much as you or most others here about these old trucks but I am here to offer my advice when its needed. I still brows here often, more so now on the duramax side. I have not lost any love for the 6.5. And hopefully one day I'll be in a place to venture down the old IDI road again.
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I actually prefer the 6.5 over the Duramax and am burned out on GM over cooling issues. I will say I love the Electronically controlled clutch fan on my 2003 5.9 Dodge. (I don't like the expensive parts.)

The 2005's unpredictable throttle would be a big reason to stay away from the Duramax. I preferred my 1993 over the 2005 every time. Power isn't any good if you can't control it or keep it cool. Even worse is ole patch would outrun it towing in the mountains because the 2005 overheated. The video the fellow did of his 2005 of being outrun by a 1993 Dodge is no joke. In 121 degree weather, intake mouthpiece replaced, better tune, windows down, heater on high, and still having to pull off the side of the road. Not only was the situation turning into survival I wanted the 1993 because it already did the same stuff with the AC on no issues. The 2008 Duramax we had was a lot more refined than the 2005 even with emissions, but, even it ran hot by holding 6th too long on a grade.

Hopefully the 2006 is less touchy on the throttle.
 
n8in8or said:
Right now I'm only running 16-17psi, but I can reach that with just over half throttle. In a few hundred miles I'll install the electronic boost controller so I can turn it up and down from inside the truck. I'm guessing I'll be running 25+ pounds of boost. I have an extra port in my manifold so I'd like to run a drive pressure gauge too, to see what it's doing on that side of the turbo.
Click to expand...
At 25.7 psi you should right on the money w/compressor @ 2.75 pressure ratio do you have max fuel tuned in up on top and rev limiter raised too?
 
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FellowTraveler said:
At 25.7 psi you should right on the money w/compressor @ 2.75 pressure ratio do you have max fuel tuned in up on top and rev limiter raised too?
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Bill said he'd give me all the fuel the pump could give so I should be maxed out. Not sure on the rev limiter yet, we'll see....
 
n8in8or said:
Bill said he'd give me all the fuel the pump could give so I should be maxed out. Not sure on the rev limiter yet, we'll see....
Click to expand...

Rev limit on the P-400 is 3,400, so might want to work with that ;) I had KOJO set my de-fuel at 3,300 as the code does not allow 3,400 (IIRC the choices were 3,300 or next of 3,600).
 
WarWagon said:
I actually prefer the 6.5 over the Duramax and am burned out on GM over cooling issues. I will say I love the Electronically controlled clutch fan on my 2003 5.9 Dodge. (I don't like the expensive parts.)

The 2005's unpredictable throttle would be a big reason to stay away from the Duramax. I preferred my 1993 over the 2005 every time. Power isn't any good if you can't control it or keep it cool. Even worse is ole patch would outrun it towing in the mountains because the 2005 overheated. The video the fellow did of his 2005 of being outrun by a 1993 Dodge is no joke. In 121 degree weather, intake mouthpiece replaced, better tune, windows down, heater on high, and still having to pull off the side of the road. Not only was the situation turning into survival I wanted the 1993 because it already did the same stuff with the AC on no issues. The 2008 Duramax we had was a lot more refined than the 2005 even with emissions, but, even it ran hot by holding 6th too long on a grade.

Hopefully the 2006 is less touchy on the throttle.
Click to expand...

My 06 is much better than my fathers 05 in that department. I did the 06 intake upgrade and maf reflash on my dads rig and that helped/stopped his overheating problems. I am sure he doesn't tow as heavy as you do though. My old truck did great towing considering what was done but I found myself on the side of the road a few times climbing canyons. I will be leaving my 06 stock height and not doing too much to the suspension or gearing. Mainly just reliable and go fast parts. My 97 would give my dads 05 a run for his money though. It was always fun to give him crap for keeping up with his truck all the while getting better MPG's in a truck 8 years older than his.
 
JayTheCPA said:
Rev limit on the P-400 is 3,400, so might want to work with that ;) I had KOJO set my de-fuel at 3,300 as the code does not allow 3,400 (IIRC the choices were 3,300 or next of 3,600).
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Huh, I didn't realize the recommended redline for the P400 was so low. Interesting.
 
SS FORCE said:
My 06 is much better than my fathers 05 in that department. I did the 06 intake upgrade and maf reflash on my dads rig and that helped/stopped his overheating problems. I am sure he doesn't tow as heavy as you do though. My old truck did great towing considering what was done but I found myself on the side of the road a few times climbing canyons. I will be leaving my 06 stock height and not doing too much to the suspension or gearing. Mainly just reliable and go fast parts. My 97 would give my dads 05 a run for his money though. It was always fun to give him crap for keeping up with his truck all the while getting better MPG's in a truck 8 years older than his.
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The 06 get better MPG in town than the 2005? The MPG was dead even between the 1993 and 2005 in town unloaded at around 10 MPG. The 1993 was 4x4, the 2005 wasn't, and a reg cab at that. The intake is like step #1 and a tune that cuts boost when things go south is step #2. Step 3 is another rig if you have to tow that hot and heavy... :wacky:
 
n8in8or said:
Right now I'm only running 16-17psi, but I can reach that with just over half throttle. In a few hundred miles I'll install the electronic boost controller so I can turn it up and down from inside the truck. I'm guessing I'll be running 25+ pounds of boost. I have an extra port in my manifold so I'd like to run a drive pressure gauge too, to see what it's doing on that side of the turbo.
Click to expand...
I'm interested in your electronic boost controller does it use the gm boost control solenoid, or?
I remember JK saying something to the effect that GM's boost solenoid works better for controlling the 6.5td boost w/OBD2 but I never tried it because I ditched the vac pump early on and went to the turbo master. I know Ford's electric vac pump is a good replacement for the GM mech one.
 
FellowTraveler said:
I'm interested in your electronic boost controller does it use the gm boost control solenoid, or?
I remember JK saying something to the effect that GM's boost solenoid works better for controlling the 6.5td boost w/OBD2 but I never tried it because I ditched the vac pump early on and went to the turbo master. I know Ford's electric vac pump is a good replacement for the GM mech one.
Click to expand...
What it is, is an electronically controlled solenoid that gets plumbed into the pressure line between the compressor housing and the wastegate actuator. Because of this it intercepts the boost signal to the wastegate actuator. There's a control module that monitors boost pressure and with a knob you can variably set the boost pressure that the solenoid opens and lets the boost pressure force the wastegate actuator open. The bottom limit of the boost pressure you'll have is the one that the actuator is set to, but the upper limit is variable based on how the boost controller is set.

Here's a link to the manual for it so you can get a better idea of how it works. I think it should be nice having this control over the boost, especially when towing and when driving unloaded.

http://www.blitzpowerusa.com/techsupport/pdf/dualsbc_specs-r.pdf
 
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