A little bit of fuel system R & R.

[BigBlueChevy]

Because so very few of us are actually capable of putting things back together the way it came (me being one of them), I've gotten myself into a little project while I'm out here in AZ.

As I've been expecting, the little green truck needs a new injection pump. This one is showing its age and suffering horribly from heat soak. I already knew this was coming before I got out here, so what better time than hit to drawing board and put my mind to work to do the infamous "While I'm in there I minus well do... this, this, this, and this" The end result wasn't anything to flashy, but a bit over the top I suppose for a pump line nozzle fuel system.

Essentially the system is as follows:

Tank ---> Primary Filter ---> Lift Pump ---> Secondary Filter ---> Fuel pressure tap ---> Injection pump ---> Back to Tank

The primary filter is a "CAT 1466695" Fuel / Water Seperator
The Lift Pump is a Walbro FRC-10 Courtesy of PMD Cable
The Secondary filter is currently a "CAT 1R-0751".

• This filter is part of the family of "Advanced High Efficiency" fuel filters many diesel guys alike try to get there hands on to use on there Cummins, Duramax, and Powerstrokes due to the fact that they are a 2 Micron (.00002") absolute filter. An outstanding filter for HPCR engines as they filter much better than what the big three supply from the OEM. More importantly, is the fact that this filter, unlike the popular 1R-0750, can be upgraded to one of several of CAT's new "Ultra High Efficiency" Fuel filters, which are said to filter even lower than 2 micron.

The inlets and outlets of these two filter bases are O-ring boss type, so a quick trip to the local hydraulic shop (conveniently across the street from Empire CAT) and everything is matched up for 3/8" pushlock style hose.

 

[BigBlueChevy]

One of the harder parts of this plan was figuring out where in the sam-hell I was going to mount these things. Most guys get away with mounting there setups inside the frame rail, usually right behind the transfer case. However, because this truck is a regular cab, there is NO room inside the frame rails to mount much of anything. Torsion bars / front driveshaft take up the front, then the transfer case, and not a few inches behind that is where the fuel tank starts. The only other feasible option here was mounting the filters on the outside of the frame rail. Something that can be done, as long as one minds how low there filters will hang, and most importantly, protecting your forward filter from anything that might get kicked up by your front tire and slung at the filters. Hence, the kickplate ahead of the secondary filter with the 45* bend in the bottom of it. The whole assembly is made of 1/4" steel, fully welded with 7018 rod, than cleaned, primed and painted with a spray on type galvanized coating. Needless to say, I'm not very concerned I will be having any troubles with durability on this system. :thumbsup:

A rough test fit done after the plates had cooled showed that it looks like my measurements where pretty close if not spot on where the filters will be mounted. I plan to go out tomorrow and make sure before I coat the bolts in locktite that everything is lined up the way I want it too be. After that I can mount the Fuel pump, get the plumbing situated there, finish the electrical, and move on to actually replacing the injection pump.

 

[micky_blue]

what do you have spent in this system? I ask because it appears you have made your own AirDog. I know AirDogs are not cheap, I have one on my powerstroke. Now I really like the the AD, but a set up like this will do the same and if its half the price and comes with protection from road debris, then I would think its perfect.

 

[Slim Shady]

SWEET set up

 

[btfarm]

Nice work Jamie. :thumbsup:

 

[BigBlueChevy]

what do you have spent in this system? I ask because it appears you have made your own AirDog. I know AirDogs are not cheap, I have one on my powerstroke. Now I really like the the AD, but a set up like this will do the same and if its half the price and comes with protection from road debris, then I would think its perfect.

• Walbro FRC-10 from PMD Cable.com - $140.00ish

• The fuel water seperator I got off eBay from a gentlemen who has a stock of them. - $60

• The Secondary 2 Micron filter assembly I purchased from Empire CAT over here and in total cost - $70

-(I have all the P/N's for everything too BTW, it doesn't come assembled like that.)

• In misc. fittings and 10' of pushlok hose from the local hydraulic shop - about $60

• And the steel plates with misc. bolts came out to about - $40.00

All the fab work I did here myself (since I have my lincoln with me) so I know if you had to bring it too a shop and have everything put together for you that would certainly be a bit more costly. In total : about $370, give or take.

 

[WarWagon]

I bolted the C Series 256-8753 water separator with the 4 bolt mounting filter head to the body floor under the rear seat of the burb inside the frame rail.
The water separators work very well as I had clean fuel at the FFM and cloudy B99 in the CAT filter from the drain.

Big filters and fuel lines need to be inside the frame rail for side impact safety. The tank can siphon out if a filter breaks or gets crushed in a wreck. Inside the frame rail is not perfect, but, this is the reason it is done that way.

 

[BigBlueChevy]

Never quite looked at it that way. I guess one tries to avoid thinking about getting in an accident but the threat is certainly still there. To be honest I'm not all that concerned about having an issue should the truck get hit on this side. The secondary filter at best case scenario won't ever see more than 15psi, and even then will still be oil pressure controlled so as soon as the truck looses oil pressure (engine shuts off) the system stops pumping. So the possibility of the fuel atomizing enough to detonate if it came in contact with a high enough heat source is very unlikely. Its hard not to sounds like an inconsiderate pin-head here, and you most certainly bring up a valid point, but given all of the MD and HD rigs I've serviced that have there fuel systems in not-so-well-protected area's I feel confident in saying it will be alright.

And on that note, test fit this morning was a success. :agreed: Going to coat the filter head mounting bolts with threadlocker and torque everything down. Should be cured and ready to mount up permanently once I get back from class later tonite.


:Justwait2:

 

[great white]

"Over the top?"

Pshaw, not at all IMHO:

You're "undersized" I think!



My prefilter is up under the bedside:

All 14 inches of it.....and before the peanut gallery starts on it, the tank feed hose with the compression fitting has long since been replaced with a bigger feed line right down to the sump....

 

[Slim Shady]

"Over the top?"

Pshaw, not at all IMHO:

You're "undersized" I think!



My prefilter is up under the bedside:

All 14 inches of it.....and before the peanut gallery starts on it, the tank feed hose with the compression fitting has long since been replaced with a bigger feed line right down to the sump....

Dang I feel kind of well not really sure now. I don't know whether to salute and call you sir, or go out and get one bigger than you so I can feel good about it. RFLMAO That is nice, I did away with the bowl for the sake of just in case I ran up over something. I have a bowl with automatic heater but have yet to put it on. I use a WIX filter with water separator built in. All steel

 

[Slim Shady]

Sweet Sweet set up you guys. that looks great as well.

 

[Burning oil]

Jamie, looks great. You to GW.

 

[BigBlueChevy]

Great White all I'm getting is "this video or image has been deleted or moved" Sure interested in seeing how you approached this though!

 

[BigBlueChevy]

Had some fun under the Arizona sun the past 2 days. And stage 1 of my fuel system R & R is complete. I am actually quite pleased with how it turned out. Once I got all the fittings lubed up and torqued down I was able to get the whole assembly bolted up to the frame. First challenge to tackle was how and where I was going to mount the new Walbro Lift Pump. What better place to put it than right where the old one was? As you can see in the later pictures, the mounting flange on the Walbro FRC-10 isn't as wide as the factory plastic cage that supports the failure prone model. A little bit of C-channel, some measurements, and some fab time produced this little bracket:

This made mounting the walbro to the frame a cakewalk, and most importantly, still easily serviceable if I need to at a later time. Once that was done I was able to get the plumbing run and all the non-pushlok hose fittings secured with damage free hose clamps. Picked up some 1/2" cable management to act as a first line of defense against the fuel lines. I am however, not pleased with how low the hose hangs down behind the filters coming into the water separator, and I'll be finding something to hold them up and out of the way tomorrow. Nonetheless, I'm happy with how the finished assembly came out, and did run the truck for a good 20 minutes to make sure there where no leaks or air problems. So far, so good :hihi:

 

[BigBlueChevy]

One issue I did run into that is definitely worth mentioning. Upon jumping the lift pump to bleed the system before startup I was having no luck getting the pump to suck fuel out of the tank. Double checked all my plumbing to make sure it was going to the right place, made sure all my fittings where tight and no leaking air. Ultimately, I wound up pulling off the inlet hose going into the fuel pump and shooting a about 10 squirts of clean engine oil from my oil can into the pump, than quickly put the hose back on to avoid letting any oil drain out. Jumped the pump and low and behold, within a second or two it was pulling fuel from the tank.

Just a word of advice should anybody else hit this same issue after installing there new walbro.

 

[racedaymechanic]

Had some fun under the Arizona sun the past 2 days. And stage 1 of my fuel system R & R is complete. I am actually quite pleased with how it turned out. Once I got all the fittings lubed up and torqued down I was able to get the whole assembly bolted up to the frame. First challenge to tackle was how and where I was going to mount the new Walbro Lift Pump. What better place to put it than right where the old one was? As you can see in the later pictures, the mounting flange on the Walbro FRC-10 isn't as wide as the factory plastic cage that supports the failure prone model. A little bit of C-channel, some measurements, and some fab time produced this little bracket:

This made mounting the walbro to the frame a cakewalk, and most importantly, still easily serviceable if I need to at a later time. Once that was done I was able to get the plumbing run and all the non-pushlok hose fittings secured with damage free hose clamps. Picked up some 1/2" cable management to act as a first line of defense against the fuel lines. I am however, not pleased with how low the hose hangs down behind the filters coming into the water separator, and I'll be finding something to hold them up and out of the way tomorrow. Nonetheless, I'm happy with how the finished assembly came out, and did run the truck for a good 20 minutes to make sure there where no leaks or air problems. So far, so good :hihi:

Good looking mount but you should mount that pump upright

 

[Burning oil]

That does look good! FWIW I have not heard of any problems with mouting horizontaly.

Also my method to prime the pump if it does not self prime is: Remove fuel cap. stuff a rag over the filler neck to make a seal. Blow air into the tank right through the rag. You have to keep pressure on the rag. Use only light air pressure.
It may take two or three times but doing this will force feul out of the tank and to the LP.

 

[BigBlueChevy]

Bruce (Bruce right?, I'm having trouble with names lately it seems :rof

I had spoken with Walbro before mounting the pump up and this was the email I received from them (to also support Leroy as well):

Jamie,

You can mount the pump in either the horizontal or vertical position with NO adverse effects on performance or endurance.

Luis Salas
Program Manager - Aftermarket
Walbro Engine Management
6242-A Garfield Avenue
Cass City, MI 48726
p. 989.872.7322
f. 989.872.1135
website : www.walbro.com
see us on Facebook

---------------------------


Good Day,
I have recently purchased one of your FRC-10 model fuel lift pumps that will be used in an automotive diesel application. After reading through your provided installation instructions, I understand that this pump should be mounted vertically. However, due to space and height limitations on where the pump is being mounted, the only possible way to make this work is by mounting the pump on its side. Before completing this installation I would like to know what negative effects, or problems I might come across with the pump mounted on its side. Any and all information would be great.

Regards,
Jamie ------- --.

That being said, I took the truck for a spin today after finishing installing the above setup yesterday. No drainback issues thankfully, and the truck fired right up. Ran pretty darn smooth. Drove around town, spent some time on the highway and overall I'm very pleased with it. The truck definitely has a bit more response on the throttle in the higher RPM's. It really wanted to get up and go pretty easily when I asked it too. I'm REALLY looking forward to putting the new injection pump on next weekend. This things going to be a whole nother' monster when its all finished.

 

[BigBlueChevy]

A short sound clip of before I put the new injection pump on this weekend. :nonod: I hate that "marble's" clatter sound. Gaaahhh:mad2:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aH2nu6lQUps

 

[ak diesel driver]

sounds like a lil valve train clatter but otherwise sounds like a typical 6.5. be interesting to see if it changes